ShawnW

I would tuck $1250 into a fund of some kind and see if you still have the $1250 when the odometer rolls past the warranty period.

Should have a speed sensor in the speedo head at a minimum. If your trans has a speedometer cable that spins the back of the speedometer head it usually generates the signal there. Here we sometimes refer to it as speed sensor 2 because many of ours are electronic, signal generated by the tranny and send to the speedo.

Its certainly a solid engine. It shouldn't have a blown head gasket but its still possible. Its certainly doable to deck the heads flat, put new head gaskets on and be done with it for a very long time. Fix the cause of course.

To me that sounds like you didn't do it the same way that Beefaru's guy did. You came close. Back when I was trying to recreate one I came close as well. But I hit a crossroad where I could either try it, potentially break the trans, need a tow, R+R again, back to the junkyard or dealer to buy replacements, etc. Research and development is very expensive and time consuming. Ill be building these now so when you are ready to take the plunge PM me.

Yep.

Intake cams (top) have a notch that points up(12:00) and a double notch that points down. (6:00) Exhaust cams (bottom) have a notch that points at 3 o clock and a double notch that points at 12:00 Arrows on all cams will match and point at 1:30 or so. Crankshaft has a key way that points at 6:00 and a notch that points at 12:00.

I have the exact same car here! Mine has a little damage in the front end and a green hood on it but it started out the same. Someone added a nice power moonroof to this one. I added 2.5RS front seats, 95 Outback rear seat (comes pretty close to the RS pattern). I hate the tan interior. Im slowly working all the pieces out as I find them and have money. 212K miles of dirt is also being wiped away. Window tint on mine, sharpens up a black car really nice. I just finished putting a Thule rack on mine this morning what a pain in the butt to get right. I have 93 Turbo Legacy 15" alloys on mine but I like your wheels better. Car looks hilarious with a canoe on it. Its like putting a fishing hat on a baby. Anyway Ill start saving up for the ring, and the divorce. I have a lifted wagon (83) and a Turbo Brat along with a 2009 WRX. Ill bring KYB struts instead of roses for the first date.

Wow cool. I assume it does throttle position sensor?

Thats more likely the sensor in the master cylinder getting hung up in the tube it floats in. You can take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and usually it means the brake fluid needs to be flushed and may not have ever been done before.

Are you thinking its 81 Brat or 80-81 EA81 type maybe?

Sweet! Coming to Rallycross soon?

Welcome! You might like the Brat as a daily driver more but either way they make a great team.

I would check that the rotor hasn't fallen apart or something silly so pulling the cap off the disty wouldn't be a total waste of time.

Yes.

I think its just a matter of what belt came on the car from the Factory.

I was a tech at a dealership until last fall. Heres what I know. There are 3 Select Monitors so far. Current model is a Panasonic Toughbook with proprietary software on it. It connects to the car thru an interface box which is somewhat stand alone in that it has a small screen but the laptop is needed for reflashes, graphing, and a lot of other features. I believe you can buy this tool from Kent Moore, look at spending, my guess, around $6-10,000 to be up and running and dont expect any updates or help from Subaru. Its required for the immobilizer, setting up the remote start system, and many other tasks. Its a pretty wonderful device but spendy. Previous model was a unit that is similar to a snap on "brick". This is the SM2. IT has cartridges, 8 buttons and is very handy. They are tough but many are probably going to hit the market here in the next year or two because their screens died, cartridges got lost, etc. Electronics nerds will have a field day fixing these and enjoying them. Requires 2 cables. One is OBD2 type plug end, and then if you want to talk to the yellow plug older pre OBD2 cars you can by plugging a harness into the obd2 end of the normal cable. Frankly the information you can pull out of a 94 and older car with this device isn't a whole lot more than the morse code we all know and love. There is a Pre 96 cartridge that works for a ton of models, then theres a couple key cartridges you could buy to round out the set if you have a fleet or cars/shop. Looking around $2000 a cartridge last time I priced one. The unit is likely not sold by Kent Moore/dealer warehouse anymore. Airbag codes are a pita SM3 do not help with it until at least 2006 or so and morse code blinking is all the techs do as well. The SM3 is for the most part backward compatible. I never tried it with a 80's/early 90's car but I never needed to either. The Brick only works up to about 2005. I remember it working on the 2005 Outback and maybe the 2006 but after that the Toughbook or interface box or both had to be pulled out. The interface box will pull a code alone but you have to know what PO301 for example is the screen doesnt tell past the code number. It also wasn't very good at trans code diagnostic. It would give a generic number that really just meant that you needed to pull the laptop out and pull a trans code. The SM1 is pretty hilarious. Its looks like an old Atari 2600 or Commodore64 but without the TV screen. Again its cartridges but you have to have the specific year and model one in the machine to do anything with it. Slightly helpful on feedback carb systems and thats about it. I wouldn't bother buying one. I only used it twice and one of them was just so I could say I was the only current tech at the dealership to know how it worked.

Sometimes its just a matter of turning it a lot of times. It may help to remove the rotor and look inside to make sure all the pieces are still clipped in and such as well. I do the adjustment this way: Jack car up as high as I can. Jackstands. Set cable to 6 clicks on handle end. Check that wheels still spin with brake engaged. Release handle. Adjust star wheel until wheel will not turn anymore with handle down. Then back it off until the wheel will turn plus one more star push down. Do other side. Check handle make sure still holds car at 6 clicks or less.

We don't even have those lights here. Nice fuel saver is all I can speculate. I highly doubt its anything more than a vac line or an electrical gremlin. Is there a "boost sensor" mounted on the strut tower? I half wonder if they were using the engine vac signal like a turbo would have to let the driver know the pressure range has been exceeded.

I don't think those numbers are that bad at all. I believe you may have had a blocked passage or sending unit previous to the rebuild and the new pressure seems to be what I remember specs being for an ea81. Correction.... 83 FSM says: 500 RPM...50 psi assuming 167-185 degree engine oil. 2500 rpm 57 psi I assume you are using a factory oil filter? It does mess with the bypass valve. Also, the oil relief valve could be sticking I assume you went thru the oil pump and cleaned and resealed it during the rebuild...but I have seen 2 guys that didn't. I believe this is the spring with the ball on the end of it in the oil pump itself.

http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=2&news=3972

Check with the dealer to see if they will warranty it. Modern models get a lifetime warranty on the seatbelt but I don't know if the classics do. Wanted section after that.

Id help you get one at the junkyard if you want. Call me 303-641-7947

I just started my own company called RetroRoo and I think I can match that price, working on beating it but its tight as they give free shipping too. I don't use any aftermarket cam or crank seals which cuts into it. Factory timing belt and accessory belts, Paraut OEM type water pump, genuine thermostat and gasket. I can add idlers at a very reasonable cost as well. If somebody wants a custom kit (IE they don't want the tensioner or cam seals or something I can give a quote on that). Shawn http://www.retroroo.com

Looks like a 91 Turbo LEgacy Bumper to me.

Just means it is shot. Replace it they are actually pretty cheap at the dealer.