ShawnW

Please check out the contest in the shop talk forum here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115259

Tough competition to start here but we need more!

Just switch the intake manifold. No check engine lights, and honestly pretty easy to swap. You can leave the coolant crossover pipe as its the same except maybe the coolant temp sensor(s)....can't remember off the top of my head. Its worth the 10 bucks in gaskets to have the car right.

I want to sell these but I don't know what they fit. One appears to not have any cat in it at all, the other seems to be a bulge like a cat but a little strange to me as I am used to 80's stuff. The first 3 photos are the one with the bulge, the 4th is no bulge. http://picasaweb.google.com/Gen2Brats/VintageSubaruExhaustYPipes?authkey=Gv1sRgCKP-mZ6x9avQ4AE#

The striker on the pillar between the doors has 2 large phillips head bolts holding it. Sometimes this will loosen/move in an accident. Otherwise maybe the hinges got bent and you need the ones on the new door to make it work? There are adjustments for the glass more than the door but I wouldnt start messing with that until the door shuts fully.

I believe a hybrid of the RX and XT6 3.90 trans would be the solution. I have most of both in my Mad Science bin here.

Pretty well. Not as good as 2009 but still a great event. It was frigid cold last year and this year it was 90-100 degrees....at the exact same location. Max took 2nd in M4 this year in his 95 Impreza with a 3.0 swap in it. His car is frequently shown in the magazine and websites as its green with a yellow hood. The engine/exhaust sounds amazing. I feel fortunate to have been able to help with this project, drive it for an event, and to help Max thru his plans to hopefully take on Rally America eventually. I got 9th in P4 out of 18 competitors. I did badly on day 1 morning runs with my tire pressures too high and a car I hadn't raced in over 6 months. (2009 WRX). I am going to need to get new tires...oh and my list of "enhancements" to the car for next year is getting rather long. Most of the people who won this year I expected to win. Subaru will be paying out a lot of contingency money which is nice to see. No announcement on location of next years event aside from it being outside Colorado and not surprising after hosting 2 years in a row we honestly need a break. I can honestly say that it doesn't feel like a National event as much as I would like. Its 90 percent local drivers and drivers I have met before. Its as much a national as the WCSS is a National or USMB meet. While its got a lot of members representing it, it doesn't have enough from the rest of the country. Rupert Berrington took a bunch of photos and competed this year. Hes the Sportscar magazine photographer for the event. He used to run Colorado RallyX and this year he ran a Porsche and did pretty good I think he was in the top 3 in a car he had never driven before. He owns and used to race a 2002 WRX wagon. Ken Cashion (ran CO RX until last year and is a huge volunteer for the group still along with helping manage the National event) ran his new Honda Civic SI and won M2 and also allowed a competitor to share the car with him and get a trophy as well. Car looks really poised. Previously he ran an EVO in M4 class and took 2nd last year at the National by a .0X amount that was ridiculous to lose by but all the same did. Its going to be hard to hold a National with 73 cars somewhere else and thats probably why they ran it here again this year. The location is so solid, it holds up thru the runs very well with little to no Rake-shovel action between runs. Watering the course barely made a difference in times and the ground is stable here. Very dusty and sun harsh but a great place to hold it. It just stays so consistent and fair for all thru the event its hard to beat. As long as the land owners are happy with Rallycross I expect this venue to be used again in the next 5 years. Its central, solid, cheap, and right on I-25 which makes it super easy to find, hotel near, etc.

Free Yellow USMB T-Shirt to the winner. I want a photo of the car you built, and a photo of where you built it. This can be 1 photo but I would rather see 2. Im looking for an impressive build of any Subaru, and a photo of where you built it which usually makes the feat even more impressive. I just found a photo of my old 86 Hatchback that I had in Chicago during college that I did tons of stuff to back in the day in my Apartment parking lot. This was against the landlord's rules of course. It wasn't that impressive and I know some of you are building impressive things in dirt, gravel, mud, etc. Im looking for the most impressive car with the least impressive working conditions...the biggest span of difference in quality and quantity of work for the crappiest surroundings. NO TEXT allowed. You post the car, and the "garage" and I use that term loosely....and NO TEXT. If you put text in the post myself or a moderator will delete all of it. The subject line format is to be "YEAR, MODEL, LOCATION" example being "86 GL Hatchback, Chicago IL USA." I am currently out cleaning my garage and was just thinking of how far I have come since my first Subaru that I had a toolbox in the back of and nowhere to work on it. Im feeling thankful for my wonderful, insulated 2 car garage, but also remembering talking to people at previous WCSS shows and meets around Denver that built crazy neat cars in their driveway. I will be the judge of the "contest" and all rulings are final. 30 days from this posting date and I will close it, award a winner, archive the photos and allow a new and similar contest to start.

I want one for my 2009 WRX. They are already being mass produced but pricing is rather ridiculous at over $350 each.

Sent you a PM. I do a lot of work out of my house.

Its been done I knew a guy in Iowa City, IA that did that for his lawn care business.

Im getting pretty good mileage with my wrx. Often 27-30. I have a 2009 Hatchback. Sometimes I get 32-33 with my Cobb Accessport set on Economy mode but this map suggests (strictly) that you do no spirited driving with that map enabled. I like the power when I want it, the firmer ride, and mileage when I stay out of it.

The canister is either on the right rear of the car near the bumper and is a black box about the size of a childs shoe box maybe 8x3x6 or so.... or The canister is under the hood and is round on the passenger side behind the headlight. The purge valve is on the intake manifold and under the risers. I would say the cap is about a 50/50 on this code, the other half are almost always corroded fuel filler neck or bad hoses near there.

Type of Wrenching: ProfessionalHow long doing it: 14 years, 7 professionalOther skills: B.S. from DeVry in Telcom Mgmt, some mig welding and light bodywork. Former Subaru Dealer technician fully certified, now starting my own Subaru business called RetroRoo.

The factory manual states that you can warp the block not the heads. I personally think it is silly to argue this point. Honestly why not just remove in the sequence they recommend? It takes no more time than doing it in another order. I disagree on the heads needing to be decked every time. Theres a limit to how much you can take off a set and over a span of 2-400,000 miles you could actually need to buy new heads if you decked them at every HG. I clean them with a 3M rubber nub tool with an orbital, check flatness to .003 and deck if they aren't flat. If they are flat, if you torque factory spec, if you use factory HG, and have everything clean they should last 100,000 or more. I always deck heads with a rebuild or a full valve job but with just cyl HG I wouldn't necessarily always do it.

There are 16" forester steelie wheels that are stamped silver and look decent. Most of the Subaru alloys are very easy to clean. You could downgrade the brakes to standard 00-04 brakes from a not 6 cyl outback as well. I would just run Hawk brake pads or something upgraded at least with this.

Ive got my moms 98 Outback Limited for sale. Its got a rebuilt Ej25 with 30K or so on it, auto, dual sunroof, leather heated seats, the works. Runs and drives great. Only issue, and I may have fixed it, is the starter doesnt engage sometimes with the ignition switch. I have a backup switch (hidden) installed for when it doesn't work that has worked great and I just cleaned the contacts on the inhibitor switch and that may have been the culprit. Its also been in a very minor front end accident. I have replaced everything that needed it. A few brackets got silicone instead of replacing the whole unit. I had to put a new hood on it and replaced the top radiator support as it was slightly bent. Radiator and engine were not affected, bumper got replaced. Its up here in Westminster, has an Iowa title but was only there for 2 winters has been out here more than there in the time they have owned it. Only thing it might need is a cam seal replaced on the LH bank. I could do that before you take it or you can do it and take a discount on the cost. Not a terribly hard job just timing belt and a cam gear. Vin verification has been done and it passed emissions already. E test might be expired as I went out of town for 45 days and I think they only last 30 but I will re-do it if needed. PM me to discuss or call me 303-641-7947. Photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Gen2Brats/1998OutbackPhotos20100806

I could build you one at a reasonable cost PM me for details.

I think the extra weight is worth it. A hatch might have a smaller wheel base or be lighter but thats just the way it is. It isn't necessarily an advantage. Sometimes an obsticle is X distance apart and sometimes its not maybe you would have both tires on solid and the hatch wouldn't or vice versa. You just have to take what comes and adapt to it. I personally love having a 4 door. The speaker locations are better, cargo space is better, roof rack can hold more, parts swap from more vehicles and you aren't stuck with having a hatch only driveshaft, gas tank, etc so often.

I never finished them. Differences in the shaft as indicated above made me wonder if I would be required to use the EJ viscous which would mean not having diff lock. Frankly the project isn't worth it if: 4.11 or 4.44 gears dont work with a locking center diff. The other problem is most of us with the ambition to do a transmission up this way would also either already have or have plans to do an EJ swap. Personally I don't want the old EA trans, its flywheel, clutch, etc if I can have an EJ trans with any sort of low range and 4.11 or 4.44 gears and a non locking center diff I would rather have that and no bellhousing adapter. For what 3 donor trannys (or more) costs you are getting a great deal closer to the price of having one from overseas. Just a matter of finding someone reliable to ship them over. I am working on this. I think the best EA trans you could make without much for real parts swapping is a 3.90 FT4wd RX trans. It could be done with the low from the 3.9 and the ring and pinion from same. Combined with addtitional power from a 2.2 or 2.5 (or 3.3 or 3.0) engine I don't see a need to go much further than that.

I typically pull the engine to do the valve adjustment. I also don't bother doing it until the head gaskets are leaking or some other engine job is in the works. I don't use the special tool I just measure, remove the cams, install the correct shims and re-assemble. New cam seals, sealant and VC gaskets. Pretty big PITA to do in car with the tool. Its awkward and time consuming.

No but every item on the 2.5 intake can be moved over to a 2.2 intake if you use a 95, 96 or 97 EGR intake manifold. Thats TBI, piping, sensors, the whole thing. NO CEL's the last 3 I did.

We can harp on people to search but if they aren't finding it I would request that you go ahead and search a little and see if you find a thread that has the right answer in it. The related threads at the bottom of this page actually pointed to this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23684

I honestly dont think its worth not changing the transmission too. Those are great transmissions, the AWD is fun year round and not having a binding situation on those half slippery pavement and half dry is nice. The mileage drop is not that significant and the 3.70 actually offsets part of it.