ShawnW

They are solid and the sleeves are cast around the block. Varies on location and what cast aluminum is going for. Call around with the yellow pages and ask what cast alum is selling for before going.

While I understand and agree with you I think in this case it was best to start with a rust free (majority) example. Putting that much welding, fabrication and good old heart and soul (not to mention cash) into a rusty brat would have been absolutely stupid. This brat was and now still is incredible. Even if it is Orange.

Swap the intake manifold from the original engine and drill and tap the cylinder head for the egr pipe to go into.

Im doing almost exactly the same thing out here in Colorado and delivering them vast distances at times if the $ and timing are right. I don't even touch 90-94's anymore they are great cars but don't return any pay for the effort at the end. Tried and failed. A few imprezas here and there but people tend to hold onto those or just beat them into the ground.

Come out for the Nationals its absolutely a fun time and for $120 its a lot of racing. Also a great place to pick up some tips and tricks. Fountain is just south of Colorado Springs.

Im not saying you shouldn't do it. The motor is robust. Its huge though and sometimes there is a reason that you will be the first to take on a project. I am willing to cut down the harness to the minimum for $400 if you need help with that. I have done a wiring chop for a couple vanagons that used this motor.

Nice post Larry thank you.

Information here please PM me if you are planning on coming as I will try to help with information and anything else I can think of. http://www.scca.com/event.aspx?hub=2&event=16211

It gets dirty and restricts the amount of air going out the vents. A dirty one will also make the defroster work harder and leave more slime on the inside of the windshield.

Im with MilesFox on this one its fine. See if you can put 60K on it in 5 years and replace it again.

NOT MINE just found it: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/1868771219.html

Hey nerd do you want me to send you some shifter stuff or do you have enough core pieces these days?

Carefully and possibly a piece at a time. Penetrant and patience, pliers on the center and pull out gently.

You might just check the pull a part yard out by the Airport for a car with a new looking radiator. Pretty common on these is to have a gasket, waterpump or thermostat problem and somebody tosses a new radiator in thinking it will fix the problem but it doesnt so they scrap it. Been to that yard twice and both times it was OK, nothing like Denver for number of Subaru's but still ok.

$50 for an ECM? ARe you going to the pull a part yards here? PM me I can point you towards yards that are not that expensive.

Pretty cool I would love to have one of those.

I have one you can measure that was made for the swap.

They are completely computerized now theres no need for the paper catalog. They just don't know how to get into the right area its under MV usually.

Take the Brat. Sell the EA82 Wagon. Fly out here to Denver and get another Outback I see those for $2000 or less now sometimes.

I have helped with a 3.0 Swap and I truly think this is the way to go. Its going to be a lot easier to use its Auto trans as well because you could just use the entire engine and transmission harness. Finding a 2001 Outback that has been wrecked is going to be as easy as finding an SVX was IMO. Klodes salvage auction would be a great place to start. Honestly I have to ask why though. The Forester is available in a turbo model and is fantastic this way. When I helped with the 3.0 swap it was for a gutted, caged, impreza being used for RallyX and eventually Rally America. He needs torque and it fits the bill nicely.

I would agree this is a good fix in this situation. A switch in the dash and run a pair of wires to the wire plug where the FWD fuse holder is.

I did and the acorn lug nut ended up having a hole thru the end but otherwise it worked ok. This was with a stock alloy wheel 13" thru a brake drum on the rear of my 84 Brat. Still a little peeved at WJM for this thread. I see his point but honestly a factory Subaru part works fine if you need longer studs. I have a feeling a stamped steel wheel might not fair as well as it would sit further down on the stud.