ShawnW

Looks good. You might consider putting your license plate on the brushguard to keep the cops off your case.

At very slow speed you can't hear it it just gets a little noisy around 10-15 mph Im not sure you would be able to hear it from under the car at all. I have driven it on jack stands thru the gears and can't hear anything but I have the exhaust, engine, etc to contend with.

If it goes away with load or fuel its not considered KNOCK is more likely PING. Could indicate you need to do a tuneup, your knock sensor may be bad, or your gas is junk. Might even have excessive water in the fuel tank.

They were easy to get on felt like they belonged on it. My buddy Max runs a similar setup in his rallyx car but his car is too noisy to notice if the diff makes this noise. The only thing I found odd during the installation was turning the rear wheels seemed a little difficult by hand after all was together.

Dig a little deeper thru the forums here there are tons of people that have already done the swap and writeups on how to do it. PM me if you are having trouble with finding info.

Right, no noises before the diff swap.

I just got done swapping in an LSD from an 85 RX Sedan with 104K on it into my Impreza. I used the RX external stubs and Legacy rear axles from a 91 Turbo. Everything fit as I figured it would. It makes a weird clicking noise when I roll down the road in gear or out. I used Synthetic 75W90 gear oil and a bottle of BG LSD additive. This has been fine in the past on old gen LSD conversions. Ideas or suggestions are appreciated. I did do the disc brakes and rear struts at the same time as the LSD swap but don't think thats necessarily the problem.

But if I had to spend money which I do about once a month at a minimum I would buy Genuine Subaru Head gaskets and let them keep their $100 bolts. I re-use the bolts on every engine from the 70's to present and the factory manuals have never stated to replace them.

Small world indeed.

Extend the pipe to the end of the bumper and you will be fine. EGT is only really used by Turbo/Supercharger swap guys.

Thanks for the link.

Having the heater on max doesn't change anything. I turn it on once to make sure heat is coming out the vent and then shut it off. Otherwise it takes all day to bleed the air out and hear the fan cycle on and off. Look up Spill Free Funnel if you haven't already got one.

We have pretty clean examples running around here and not nearly as bad a drive. Go south and get on Amtrak somewhere, ride out, and drive one home. Happy to help with it if you want.

Perfectly square or it will drive you nuts with a vibration. Seen twice 1st hand. Both got 1 piece made later.

Absolutely! In fact any locals that want to come see it in person come see it in person before installation. PM for a phone number/address if you don't already have them. Of course call before coming too. Needed to be said after all the idiots on craigslist that have called asking for an address and then complained when I wasn't home. 4 in 5 years isn't that many but enough to be annoyed and laugh.

Ill be sourcing those thru Marshall with MWE axles.

The paper gasket from the dealer will hold if torqued properly. With a torque wrench.

If I have a motor out that has 5 years or 100,000 miles on it I always do the headgaskets even a 2.2L or 1.8L pushrod. I just did my mom and dads 2006 Outback engine with 94,000 on it as they was a small seep spot on the RH head starting. They also live over 700 miles away and I don't want to fix the car at their house.

Pretty cool! Might get the inside sandblasted and coated while you are at it.

Do you have the hydraulic lifters quieted down and it runs pretty quiet now?

I like SUBRDAV. I wouldn't put FAST on my plate for sure and I wouldn't single out any make/model as you just never know whats under the hood or tuned on anything I have seen Hondas, Evo's, VW bugs and all kinds of cars that are sleepers that I wouldn't want to claim my car is faster than. I have a 2009 WRX and I don't take any car for granted. Of course I also don't condone or participate in street racing either.

Its for ea81 and ea82 type vehicles. Working on keeping it at or around $1000 but no huge promises. When you see the machining and pieces in the kit you will understand why. Also going to have to send core pieces back in the form of the original control arms, and backing plates so he can make them without a bunch of trips to the salvage yard. Heres the kit info page from CrossBredPerformance.com http://www.crossbredperformance.com/kit-info I love that I won't have a single 13" 4x140 wheel around here anymore. Well, after I sell the 12 sets I have.

I agree but I have to decide if I am going to RallyX national championship that weekend or not. Its only 55 miles away as opposed to the show that is 1255 miles away.

I am about to open a box I have been dreaming about receiving for about 2 years now. Finally got all the details figured out and my wagon will go under the knife next month. I have lots of parts to obtain now. This will be the first one of these kits on US Soil and RetroRoo/me will be the USA vendor for these. Still working on pricing for them and how to deal with currency changes, shipping and a possible large shipment eventually. I think we have most of the details worked out. This makes your 4 lug car a 5 lug car with rear e-brakes and all Subaru Impreza/Legacy parts. These might seem expensive until you consider the cost of Peugeot Wheels, safety, rear disc swap you are probably already thinking of buying, and piece of mind. I think a friend of mine might still have his hatchback today if he had these brakes instead of 25 year old tiny ea81 brakes. The car had the awesome big tires, lift kit, new radiator, disc brake swap, the works but it couldn't stop itself like a normal car. Most of us already spend around $100 (if not more) to get disc brakes from a Turbo Ea82 car and these are getting harder to find. XT6 even more difficult. When you do find them they are 20 year old parts and at times very rusty, maybe not even possible to get off at the junkyard. Lots more availablity at the parts store for pads, rotors, calipers and rebuild kits.....aftermarket Hawk pads and such.....yes I am excited. Photos will be coming of course. To me this is an epic day I know the swap has been possible for a while now but not as a professional, complete kit. Feels like the days when the first BYB lift kit came over from Brett.

Thats still not fixing the problem for sure and adding freon to a system that may have a leak is just rediculous and not cheap either. You need to put those seals on and put a vac on it and see if it holds vacuum. If it doesnt you aren't done yet. People are doing this themselves thanks to the cans being sold in every store and single port installation kits. It makes me mad that people can just walk into a store, buy a can with a nozzle on it, and basically release it right into the air like its no big deal. Whining about how much a professional charges to do it right is childish. Pick your battles. Fix what you are qualified to fix and leave the rest to the professionals with the right equipment to do it right. A $10 can doesn't give you a license to fix it yourself.