ShawnW

The mating surface on the block is the problem with the oil filler neck. At a minimum you will have to use that flange from the original. As far as the dipstick that should be pretty easy to adapt. The turbo model has a different direction to it that might work for the shape you need but goes into the block the same way.

For sure-no but I did use a 2001 Forester Trans in a 2000 Outback Limited 4 cylinder car without problems.

Forgive me, I am a little tired. Next time please make some paragraphs and break it up a little bit. Big paragraphs make for a fatigue in reading it. I don't see a year specified. Just OB Wagon mentioned. Most of these codes aren't model year specific but it does help in troubleshooting. With a belt situation like that I suspect bent valves. Its hard not to. It doesn't take much to make a strange misfire and the codes you mentioned occur on the same bank or "side" of the engine so I really think that could be the problem. Its going to make a noise or be hard to keep from pinging in that condition as well and therefore going to trip knock sensor and other strange codes. Its going to be hard to start. Its going to be difficult to keep running if its dumping raw fuel into the cat or not making a complete combustion cycle. You indicate the oil on the spark plug wires so I know its a SOHC 2.5. That is also going to mean you can do a compression and leak down test rather easily on that engine. I would start there. Make sure you don't have what I suspect and then troubleshoot from there. Stop wasting money and time with what you have been nice enough to say in "parts swapping". That just gets frustrating and expensive quickly. You can get lucky. You can use a code scanner to solve some problems but you can't do a full engine analysis with it. And at the end of the day no scanner will tell you that the engine is knocking or has a burnt or bent valve. Only you can fully diagnose that. I wish you luck and don't hesitate to stick around and ask follow up questions we are here to help not pick on you. Not trying to do that at all just telling you what you already know and might not want to hear.

Do you have a Napa shop account? It has a labor lookup in it that I often use if I don't know the book time off the top of my head.

http://autoholics.com/2012/12/31/-What-are-they-Driving-in-Middle-Earth--676967

Did you have no brakes before the carb swaps? Did you put the 1 way valve in the brake booster line? Its more obvious on a GL than an Impreza but an Impreza I worked on a few years back had the hose backwards and like Bill said a bad diaphragm or the one way valve installed wrong would have symptoms like that. Did you have no brakes before the carb swaps?

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/01/subaru-prepping-hybrid-vehicle-for-new-york-debut.html

That is correct. I have done this quite a few times but ideally I use the cams and all its parts from the same head to guarantee the cam won't seize in the head. It hasn't happened yet but it is possible to have one that the head doesn't fit perfectly with.

The sandpaper is standard wet dry paper in an 8.5x11 or so sheet. I personally am using a piece of Granite that I tripple checked with my Snap-On straight edge. Its as perfect as it gets and I like that its thicker and heavier than a piece of glass so I didn't have to mount it to anything. I just put it on an old beach towel folded in a couple halves and onto the bench it goes when I need it. The grey WD40 and aluminum mixture is pretty messy as is the adhesive. Be very careful with the adhesive its extremely flammable. Probably the most dangerous thing in my shop and that says a lot. Vent after using! I only use this on ea series engines at my shop. For anything EJ I send them out. The size of the head vs the paper makes it pretty frustrating to keep from tearing the sandpaper. My customers with the EJ series engines are also typically in a bigger hurry for their car back as well as willing to spend the money on it. Every customer knows which method I am using and why. As GD says in his writeup you can often do a set of heads faster than driving back and forth to the machine shop. In my case its damn close-my machinist is about 4 minutes away but I have to drop off and pick them up. Usually I have my head surfaces prepped and cleaned by the time they are calling me to let me know they are done. I have also been cutting with 80 first on any head where the head gasket ring has stamped into the metal all the way around. Just too deep for 120 or above it takes way too long. I go from 80 to 120 to 220 usually and the surface is absolutely perfect after this process. Quite often its as pretty as doing them on a Bridgeport at the machine shop. For the original question: I use a 3m Roloc Bristle Disc on a surfacing/right angle die grinder with fairly low speed. These are rubber discs that aren't as harsh as a Scotchbrite and were recommended by Subaru of America via a service bulletin to replace those as guys were taking metal off with the Scotchbrite.

The plugs-no black in the ceramic/insulator section of the center? A leakdown test would certainly tell you more and give you the piece of mind to replace an injector on the cylinder with the most black in the center of the plug. I am going to guess cylinder 4 just based on what I have seen in the past few months. 3 bajas, a 1 wrx and 1 turbo forester all with tight clearance on cylinder 4 and 3/5 with a cracked exhaust valve edge. Over $50 a valve for factory valves too.

Rod knock always gets worse as the engine runs for a longer period of time in my experience. I don't like piston slap and make great strides to eliminate it in all the engines I rebuild but I never pull one out of a car because it does it-always recommend to the customer that they live with it. I know of one customer with 50,000 miles of slapping and no other problems with the motor. I am amazed these don't at a minimum consume oil a little bit but the ones I have worked with didn't even do that.

Who wrote the article? I like it.

You can also add it to your YouTube playlist if you have a youtube/google account. The little clock icon on the Video screen newar the bottom right corner.

Which parts? Have you been to the site help/suggestions area to see the suggestions that other users have submitted? A majority of the tools and formatting are there just in a different place, button or menu now. We didn't have much choice in upgrading. The company that originally owned VBulletin software sold it and the new company didn't do a very good job of maintaining it or providing new updates and support. Their prices were also higher than this one as well and that is certainly a factor. All of this costs a lot of money and time to keep going and manage.

Looks like a great score. 2wd 5 speed should get some good mileage and be a cheap one to keep going even in California.

Wow, that really sits up there. Keep posting more photos as it goes!

The kit is the same part number for 1600 and 1800. Most find the jets suitable but if you wanted to really fine tune it jets are going to be necessary. They sell a jet kit that has a lot of different sizes if I remember correctly. I will call Redline tomorrow to confirm and post pricing.

PLease share it that sounds good. And submit to USRM or suggest it be after a few replies/additions if they are necessary.

Do you have a favorite writeup on it?

Or this one in the snow too!

This car has a lot of appeal to me and I don't see much discussion on it. I love the new ad with all the history and the car wash. If you haven't seen it's here:

Sounds like a lot of work. Pictures will certainly generate interest here.

Cool to see a new "Old" Subaru guy in the area. Come visit my shop! I am minutes from you.

You have to take the tailhousing off and the big nut for the input shaft back there. A few distinct models require you to remove the valve body to do that but I have only seen a couple out of 3-400 I have taken apart.

Don't worry about it until your radio makes funny noises. I see them all the time missing that piece and no complaints of the radio.