Sister7

This genious suggests trying a different ignition impulse amplifier (little transistor on the coil bracket) and checking the cleanliness of the bracket as it is a ground for said transistor. Also just assuming that you checked and the rotor was turning.

Isn't that the same weekend that they moved Wild West to?

Yes, they should normally be disconnected. They are used to check stored codes and to set your timing (and to listen for the fuel pump like NorthWet suggested). If you do verify that you have no spark, check for voltage at the coil. If you do have voltage at both sides of the coil, I would suspect that your ignition impulse amplifier is bad. It's the little transistor at the bottom of the coil bracket. Also note that this bracket acts as a ground, so make sure it's clean and tight.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51452

Very soon I'm going to start taking the Southworth/Fauntleroy, though I will probably be in a vanpool, not a subaru.

Another thing that is good to check is the coolant thermosensor. I know they can keep a car from starting, not sure about stalling out. This post has a nice picture of where it is: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=40589#poststop The connectors get green and fuzzy on these old cars and usually just need to be cleaned.

Thoes numbers don't suprise me. I cringe every time I put my Yakima on...the cylindrical bars are so dirty aerodynamically. It would be very interesting to see how the mpg performance would change by adding a simple fairing to the trailing edge of the bars.

Great pics Ed! I finally got mine up too: http://community.webshots.com/album/552785758XmcVMl

Nice to almost meet you too, sorry I didn't stop to chat. It was a great day for driving, not such a great day for tires. I slipped a second bead during the fun runs. It popped back on with a some air, so thankfully I was able to make it home but unfortunately I had to take the paved roads to get there.

I'll be there with my silver GL-10 Sedan. Does anyone know if the McChord Air Show is this weekend? If so I reccomend avoiding I-5

What's desireable? I just passed emissions :banana:but my o2 %'s seemed high at 4.49 (cruise) and 9.58 (idle). In order to pass emissions I retimed it to 20 deg BTDC and installed a new o2 sensor. We're talking EA82T here, and it was a static test. In any case, it seems like it's time for that AFR gauge.

And I haven't even touched the long block or the tranny yet

Well, it's almost been a year and sadly I didn't end up fixing my wagon. As Turbone said, to fix it properly was going to be too much work. It had been on the wait list for all of the tech colleges in the area for about 6 months with no reponse. I decided to use her as a parts car. It's kind of nice knowing the history of your parts car. The good news is that I've got my '88 GL wagon running and driving (and passing emissions!!!) and my '88 T-wagon started and running from the parts so far. Here's a working link to all of the pictures after it was torn down if anybody's interested. http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/ald27/86%20GL%20wagon/ ps all of the dirt is from WCSS7 and the July '05 Brooklyn RallyX

Did you take the coil bracket off? If so that's why you're not getting spark. There is a little transistor on the bottom of the coil bracket that amplifies the signal to the distributor. The bracket is used to ground it, so it will not work if the bracket is removed. I have a spare bracket/transistor and coil if you want to try (I live in GH) pm me and I'll give you my cell #. ps- by gig harbor, you don't mean key peninsula, do you?

Yes it will. You will also need a 3.9 diff to go with it.

Yep. I bet the flow rates for it are given somewhere in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&highlight=injectors

it's a 36

Check for spark. If there is no spark I would look into this. I think they call it the ignition impulse amplifier (it's a transistor). Mine went out after a bad alternator was over charging.

I would check the axel nut. Just jack up the car and see if the wheel moves in directions it shouldn't. Even tipping 1/4" in/out is enough to be a problem. Typically CV's click or pop when they fail.

haha I love the lifted sedan look! fwiw, my digi-temp gauge goes between 3-4 bars, the manual says that the 'normal' range is between 4-7. I had a hard time trusting the digi gauge, so I just bought an aftermarket gauge set, so now I have a voltage and oil pressure gauge too.

I don't think the GL-10 sedan is so rare, it's just that the GL's are so common you lose perspective. My favorite GL-10 upgrade is the foam spoiler here's mine:

I do

Both of my '88 GL-10's have variable intermittent wipers. I don't know what would be involved with swapping it in, but I'm sure it's possible.

Looking good! I think it's one of the few non-silver ones I've seen

81 GL wagon- red 82 GL wagon- beige 2 x 86 GL wagon- light blue 88 GL wagon- light blue 88 GL10 sedan- silver 88 GL10 wagon- burgandy Nobody noticed when i got my "new" light blue wagon, I wonder why...