phishy75

pullers make it easy to get the cogs off of the crank. You can get a cheapo one for under $10. When you go to take out the seal, be careful if you go in with a screwdriver - you don't wanna start scratching up the surfaces cause then you won't get a seal with the new one. When I did mine on my 85 t-wagon, i ended up drilling two holes in the seal itself (be really careful not to push through too hard when the drill gets through the seal) and then threaded in two screws and pulled it out with a pair of pliers. I was amazed how stuck the seal was considering you could see a fine spray of oil coming out from behind it when the engine was runnung. good luck

prolly not going to be seeing many of these on the street but still way cool (even thout it's a jeep). Talk about turning on a dime. http://www.jeep.com/autoshow/hurricane/gallery.html

I have done 4 HG's now (both sides on both subies), both on N/A and Turbo, and I have never pulled an engine from either of my cars. Of course it is easier access if you pull the motor, but you no not have to pull it to change out HG's.

1-3 x 2 as well

I'm a cheapass - used felpro. Guess I'll pull the valves and take a good look. You're always good for a quick response Snowman - cheers:drunk:

could be the tracks on the roof itself have started to come off a bit. my '85 must have had lots of heavy loads put up top 'cause if you pushed on the roof, the metal sunk down, but the tracks would stay level. Never had any problems with vibrations, mind you you can't hear much when she's revving up around 6g's:brow:

How can I tell if my head is cracked? Well duh, besides the obvious... I pulled off my pass side head (I know that was the problem side for sure) and all I can see is a very minor crack between the valves on one cylinder. I'm talkin really minor here too... I did the HG on this side about 5 months ago, but when I was pulling it off again, it seemed like the head bolts might have loosened off some, so I'm thinking maybe it is just a HG problem. So I guess my question is - can head cracks that cause real problems (coolant usage and steam out the tailpipe) be internal and not visible on normal inspection, or is this most likely just a HG prob that would have been fixed by re-torquing the head bolts. I'm hoping for the second, but if not I'm off to the JY to pull a head tomorrow...

Is that for the GF, or a DD until you fix the wagon?

It seems to be a cold engine thing. I'm not totally sure because the Gf has been driving it lately so I haven't had a good chance to see how things change as it heats up. When it was doing this before, it would often do it when cold, and then clear up and run fine after it warmed up a while. What does this mean to you Snowman? thanx

Yup, took a good look, but I coulda missed something... Shoulda mentioned - it's carbed.

I was thinkin cracked head too. I checked both of them out pretty well when I had them off, and all looked well, but we all know looks can be decieving. Torqued them all down to a little over spec (like 50lbs I think) so I don't think that is the prob. I didn't get the heads machined when I did the hg's, but I did clean them up immaculately and did the old straight edge check. So what is the best way to figure out which side to pull off first? I ran it for a while and then pulled all the plugs, but didn't find any evidence of moisture in any cylinder. I'm thinkin I'll pull of the exhaust and run her pipeless to see which side is steamin (besides LOUD is COOL haha). Hey bushbasher - you got a head (I suspect drivers side) layin around you wanna get rid of? Vanislru - your GF told me you blew a HG and you have a move coming up on the same day as us too. A whole lot of coincidences goin on . Good luck with your wrenchin and moving man:drunk:

Thought I had her licked, but the dreaded steaming tailpipe is back. Put a new pass side HG in about 5 months ago, new drivers side HG and intake manifold gaskets about a month ago. Before I did the drivers side, I was having a problem with intermittant steam out the tailpipe and low compression in the front cylinder. All of the gaskets are jobber (I know, i know) and everything was fine for the last month - even did a 700km trip up to Tofino. Now the steam is back and it seems to be worse!!! Good compression all around (150 - 170 psi), no water in the oil, no particularly fouled plugs, new manifold gaskets don't show any signs of leaking... And to top it all off, I have a baby on the way and I'm moving in 10 days so the car needs to be mobile SOON. I'd love to get some good ideas on where else to look and what it might be...

Here on the west coast older gen subes are pretty common. At least the wagons are extremely common (I see many every day) and the hatches and sedan are fairly common. Don't think I have ever seen a brat or an RX around these parts though. Mind you, I've only been "into" subes for about 6 months so I didn't really take notice much before. I would definitely be very weary of a scam...

22mm socket will do the trick. Take off the spare tire and remove the flywheel cover, then you can use a large flathead screwdrive to wedge against the flywheel so you can torque it down well. Not sure what the exact torque specs are, but it should be good and tight. Be sure not to take any big scrapes or gouges out of the flywhell when you wedge it.

Sounds just like my '86. Exact same as yours (carbed, d/r wagon, ~25mpg) and 150k miles. I have given her a full tune-up and bumped the timing to about 13 degrees. She runs like a top, but accelerates like a dog. I've just grown to accept it and keep my foot on the floor most of the time.