phishy75

You mean the one that attaches right at the exhaust manifold? Not there on the turbo - only on the N/A.

Glad you're getting soem amusement outta my HEAD Vanislru:rolleyes: . Just charging up on caffeine before i have another go at it today... I managed to get all the other manifodl bolts out last night without breaking any, and the frickin manifold won't budge - not avan a hair. Not sure what's up there. Might be hammertime soon:brow: Oh yeah - what about those exhaust brackets???...

Just pull the lifters - sometimes they take a bit o' wigglin. The two cam pullies are supposed to be 180 degrees apart from each other, your saying that the one that is 'up' is not quite straight up - are you sure you are on the right mark on the flywheel??? There are the markings with the numbers for setting the timing, and just before those there are three small closely spaces marks. you want to be on the middle mark of those three (TDC) then one cam should be straight up, and the other straight down. One good point for when you are reassembling - put the cam tower that is straight up (the pully marker) on first, then rotate the flywheel once so it is down, and then put the other one on with the mark up. When the mark is up, the cam lobes are all away from the rockers so there is no interference. Hope you're having more fun than me - i wish i had the gear and the space to pull my motor for these jobs:-\

Thanks Martin - I think I take enough s*#t from your dad to last me thru the weekend:lol: Feel free to stop by if you wanna have a look 3315 Glasgow Ave.

Don't worry - I know better than to pound on the heads with a hammer. I was just tapping them with a piece of wood to see if there was any movement:grin: I was going to remove the intake manifold before, but the bolts on the other side are seized too, and I know I'm gunna break one of them. Can't get heat onto the bolt with the head still on cause there's too much other stuff (vac hoses etc) around that will get fried. Guess I just have to see how many bolts I break and get them all out when the manifold is off.

I suspected as much. Thanx guys. Know what I'll be doing tomorrow...

I'm doing the HG on my EA82T right now (passenger side only) with the motor in the car, and of course one of the intake manifold bolts snapped on me (the on furthest towards the block). She's really seized, and I can't get it with an easy-out. I wanna get the head off so I can remove it that way, but I can't get the friggin head off:banghead: . I've got all of the bolts out, the banjo connections off, the exhaust, and everything disconnected, but she won't budge. I realize she won't pull straight out with the manifold bolt still in there, but shouldn't I be able to drop it down? Shaking, jerking, even hammering (thru a piece of wood) and she won't move. Are there any alignment studs like between the head and the cam tower? I don't remember there being any from the last time I did it on my N/A, but that would explain why if there were. Should I just keep hammering?:-\ Getin a little frustrated here:banghead: Help much appreciated...

but did you put 8mm wires on? Only worthwhile if you get an Accel coil or similar. Not necessary, but they will improve your performance...

Are you sure you bled them in the correct x-pattern? If you didn't, then that is definitely the place to start.

proly at least $5 each - I paid about $15 each for the U/P and D/P to turbo gaskets, plus the oil passage o-ring between the cam tower and the head is like $2.50. OUTRAGEOUS:slobber: Oh well it has to be done... No worries about the D/P - if you don't end up using it I'll take it back:brow: Turns out the exhaust is trashed the whole way back.

that's true. I'll give it a try and see. Here's hoping... cheers guys:drunk:

any way to tell before ripping stuff apart?

so i finally got around to fidlin with the turbo wagon today. got her runnin and took her out for a spin - ME LIKEY TURBO:brow: Even with the 3AT she's way faster than the 5spd N/A. Now for the problem - she's blowin lots of white smoke (steam). Damn head gasket:banghead: . I can see coolant in #1 cylinder just by looking through the spark plug port, but i did a compression check and both #1 & #3 are running around 130. How is that? Could it be something besides the HG like the intake manifold? I didn't think so, but thought I'd check before I rip off the head next weekend.

There's others on the board that know a lot more than me..... But I think you're right - if the knock is just under load and not all the time I would guess that it is timing.

So how tough is it and what do you need? Of course you need the throttle body, intake manifold & air box. What else, and what about electronics and all the vacuum hoses on the carb? Just tryin to get an idea before the "how to" post come out.

OUCH:slobber: I thought I was doin bad with 20 city and 25 hwy. Mind you my foot is pretty heavy:brow:

Be sure to post here when you post it in the USRM so we know!!! I'm itchin to do it myself.

Take off the cover and make sure both of the mounting screws are there. One of the screws (I think the rear one) touch a metal plate which I think is part of the circuit. I had the same problem - put in a screw (cause it was missing) and it fixed it.

Musta made a typo.. if its thinner than 5w30 its going to leak more.. thicker oil leaks slower, but in the cold is harder on engines I'm talking about the oil he has in there already - if it's thicker than 5w30 (ie 10w30 or 10w40), it will leak a little more when he puts the 5w30 in there.

What torxxx said... What kind of oil are you running right now? If it's thicker than 5W30, your going to leak a little more, but that's the price you pay for living in an igloo:lol: . Living in the flatlands you have to already have a block heater, but a pan heater will definitely keep the oil warmer too.

I'll throw in my 2 bits about a few of the topics: 2. Definitely get the alignment done!! Ball joints and engine mouunts can also cause vibrations, but so can unbalanced tires. Do you know when the last time your tires were balanced? Are there balancing weights on the rims & do they look like they were put on years ago? If you think it has been a while, balancing the tires can make a BIG difference for pretty cheap (it did for me). 3. Middle of the gauge is OK. You can bring it down by using a lower temp (180F) thermostat if it makes you feel better. I run mine little cooler - more like 1/3 level of the gauge. Keep in mind these gauges are not necessarily all that accurate also. 4. Sounds like the tranny and not the motor. Don't know much about AT's. 5. These cars are notorious for not running too well when cold. A regular tune-up (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, oil & filter & air filter) is always a good idea if it hasn't been done in a while. Might help this as well as #4 if it not a tranny problem. I always let my car warm up for a couple of minutes - especially in the winter. 6. Get up to operating temp and take a really good look at all the hoses under the hood for small leaks. Can you smell any coolant when running? A compression test is always a good idea - it can tell you alot. Good luck and don't give up hope. These are great cars that will go forever with a little TLC and maintenance.

if it was bad anough to be doing any serious damage you would definitely know it to hear it - it sounds like bad rattling when under load.

let the debate begin again... I've used both in my 86 and never had more than a drop or two leak, but my motor is pretty tight. The way I look at it - synthetic has to be better. If it leaks a bunch then it's time for a re-seal. If not then . Everyone has their own opinion.

pulled out the resistor block for my blower fan and the resistor for setting #2 is fried. Anyone know if I can just solder in a standard electronics resistor, and if so what resistance should i use? cheers

Hola y bienvenido!! Donde esta Tunja? Yo passe un mes en Colombia hace un ano y media. Es mi pais favorita en todo Latinamerica (que yo he visite). No vio nada subies quando estaba alla (que triste) pero la gente do Colombia son lo mejor!!! Perdoneme - olvide casi todo mi espanol:-\ Es el motor un EA82 o EA81? Creo que es un EA81, pero no estoy seguro. suerte