Left_coast*9

Good to know, my GL-10 5 spd turbo wagon is there as I type this for a complete engine reseal, timing belts, blah blah. I want to get this engine/wagon in tip-top shape before the winter...and this will be a nice rig when it's done. ***FINGERS CROSSED***

Better apologize in advance here, this is my first engine pull EVER. The car is an '86 GL-10T 5spd S/R wagon, purpose is to reseal it and install new head gaskets, among MANY other things. Actually, I'm pulling the motor myself, then taking it and all the new parts down to my local Soob-ONLY mechanic to have them do the engine work. That way I know it's done right and more importantly, I save the time. The goal is to make this car as reliable as possible, and get the work done b4 winter, or heck even b4 fall, sets in. I have some good resources to use in pulling the engine, i.e THIS BOARD, a few manuals, and Miles Fox's web site, but I have a question as to how to really minimize and facilitate the work. Question #1: What the best way to deal with the intake manifold, i.e. Do I leave all the fuel and electical lines, etc. connected to it, disconnect if from the block and set it aside (e.g. on the shock tower)? Is this possible? Or should I leave it connected to the block? This will probably turn out to be a long thread, but right now this is my main question. If anybody has any more good tech articles or links, please add them! Thanks! Blake

Hey Turbone, would a flat bed tandem axle trailer help? I have one available. Sorry you haven't heard from me earlier, I just saw this post. Blake

Thanks dawgs ...love to do that conversion to my GL-10 5 spd Turbowagon!

Hey folks, is the lug nut pattern on an '88 XT6 (my car) the same as the '90-'94 Legacies? How 'bout the later model legacies and outbacks, i.e. '95-'98+? Thanks!

Looks sweet, man. Makes me want to expedite getting my '86 wagon painted....altho my stock H style stocker whells will have to do....

I added the gauge too....turns out the car runs nice and cool, runs like a top. Now i just need to do a reseal, belt change (since I have no history on this car), axles, and hell maybe even HGs....AFTER I get it painted. Then this turbo wagon will be a fine daily driver. Hopefully. :-p

Well, it's been awile, but just wanted to get back and close the book on my problem, and this thread. Turns out I had a damn leak at the intake manifold. I replaced the gaskets and now it runs like a dream again. When cold, it starts right up and purrs like a kitten at about 11200-1500 RPMs. Drivability at all temps/rpms is also improved. Thanks for your help! Blake

Thanks, Northwet, I'll give that a try tonight--long as it doesn't rain . I appreciate the post~! Once again!

Thanks Northwet. Sorry, but can you walk me through that process? I think it's a one-wire sensor...

I've searched the forum and found this thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34024&highlight=temp+gauge), among others, regarding this topic but **still have questions**. :-\ Car is an '86 GL10T (EA82T) wagon 4WD 5spd s/r. My temp gauge is intermittently working (mostly NOT), I replaced the coolant sensor located on the inboard side of the thermostat housing, no change. I know at least MOST of the bars on the gauge work, it's just I don't want to risk not having a working temp gauge, for obvious reasons. Right after I replaced this sensor is was working fine at first, the immediately went out...but could have been a coincidence, GD-it . I know these cars have a few coolant sensors. Which one feeds the digidash temp gauge? Thanks!

Update: Ok, I replaced the battery and the car ran like a dream. For awhile. I have been keeping an eye on it's charge. Sure enough, it slowly drained until the symptoms came back. :-\ Battery was dead. Guess I'm forced to replace the damn alternator, and report back when it's done. Thanks for your posts up to now.

Calebz, holy Scheitza....that is good to hear...I was wondering if that could be part of it. After it first happened the battery was in a low state of charge so I left it on the charger overnight....didn't see any more symptoms for awhile, then recently symptoms returned and sure enough, the battery was only about 50% charged. I'll report back what I find.

Thanks for the replies, guys... I did a complete tune-up, including cap, rotor, wires, plugs. What a huge difference the tune-up made -- altho that was 2 months ago, before this problem surfaced. Didn't replace the PCV or filters, or check the sensors or connections, will do. The beast also needs a battery, so that's next. Good feedback on the turbo going bad, rules that out. When the car IS running ok, the turbo pulls hard. I think the idea of ignition coil is worth checking. Thanks everyone. :-]

Car is a 1986 S/R 5 spd 4WD GL10T Wgn. The car starts fine, runs fine on start-up, but then after it gets warm (it seems, anyway), the car will become undriveable. It basically keeps running, but *especailly* under power, it will surge, cough and sputter. It WILL NOT acclerate, just surges. One time it died totally, CE light came on. Had it towed, went to go investigate and the car started right up and drove fine. The next time, though, the car did the same thing. Could this be a sign the turbo is going out? Could it be symptoms of fuel pump failure? Any suggestions on where to start spending time and $$ would be helpful, THANKS! B

Great, thanks again. I WILL be performing that mod on the WTS this weekend, and check some more into the MAF, and report back Monday. Till then...

Ok, so I removed and cleaned the IAC valve and no noticable change. But I did inspect the coolant temperature sensor and sure enough, it's green and corroded. I figure I should also solder the connections and replace the wiring back aways, as you suggested. I did not get into the MAF sensor - figure I should solve this problem first. I have a couple other questions: Do you know what gauge the coolant temperature sensor wire is? What kind of choke does the XT6 have? Is it vacuum controlled? The more I drive and experience/think about the symptoms, the more it seems the real problems are at start-up, in the morning or when the car is cold. It will not idle, just revs up to 16-1800 , then dies as I described. If I drive off, it runs, but the engine sticks at between 3K and 4K RPMs (between shifting, for example, hell it wants to stay there even when in gear) until the car comes to full temp, then it's fine, idles roughly at around 750 RPMs. At ANY time when the car is accelerating, it pulls hard and evenly. FYI

Oh, sorry, no check engine lights have surfaced at all, to answer your question.

Gary, you're a STAR! Thanks a ton for the response. I actually just recently completed a full tune-up (including wires) on this vehicle, among other things like a new clutch, engine seal, alt., oil pump, water pump, serp. belt, etc. You could say that I'd like to keep the car. These XT6s are awesome, esp. w/a 5 spd! The tune up really helped the drivability. Now it's just this pesky idling problem. I will clean the original IAC valve, and check into the coolant temp. sensor issue and then report back. **fingers crossed** Blake

Howdie, I've used Color-Rite (http://www.color-rite.com/) to get touch-up paint for both my jetski and my Dodge Truck. Not super cheap, butthey were prompt and courteous. Seems to be a good product, too. I have also purchased factory touch-up paint from the Subaru dealership. As for sticker removal, you might try a hair dryer, but others might have an opinion? I used this method for taking nasty stickers off the painted surface of my vehicles before. I then used some lacquer thinner to remove the residue. Just make sure that you use a soft rag, and that the paint doesn't come off. You do this by making sure the rag you use doesn't start to become the same color as your vehicle!

Hey folks, my 1988 XT6 AWD 5 spd is having some trouble idling when cold. It starts right up, RPMs go up to about 1600 or 1800 just fine. But within 30 seconds or so RPMs drop to ~ 1-200 RPMs, the car glugs there for a few seconds, and the RPMs return to 1800 or so. This cycle continues up and down or until I drive the car away. Once underway, the throttle sticks at about 3000 RPMs with normal driving, then drops down again in 5-10 seconds to normal level if I stay out of gear and off the throttle. Runs fine while I'm actually driving. Wierd. When the car is warm, it idles fine at about 750 RPMs, although a bit rough. I replaced the "throttle control valve" on this car (located on top of the engine, just behind the intake manifold, passenger side) with a used unit, but it didn't solve my problem. Made it worse, actually. Just my luck. Any thoughts? Does this sounds like a throttle control valve issue? Do I have a vacuum leak perhaps? Is there some sort of choke assembly I can check or replace? H E L P, P L E A S E ! thanks all...

Nice Rob! Can't wait to see that RX runnin' strong. Keep me posted.

Ok, chalk another vote for the LOVE IT column of the hill holder poll. I have it on both my XT6 and GL-10T wagon....it's easy to use, convenient, trick.

Sorry guys, my car is the wagon. There really is not rust, so that's good news. The only damage to either side is small dents from door dings. It's like I got caught in a horizontal hail storm or something... I'd love to avoid replacing this panel. So can a Maaco - type body shop fix this type of damage easily and *gulp* cheaply? Thanks for your help and input! Blake

Ok, I have two bad rear quarter panels on my '86 GL10T...how hard is it to remove the panel (i.e. from a donor car), and perhaps more importantly, how hard is it to reinstall this body panel? I did a search on this and didn't come up with much. My rear quarters are all pock-marked from door dings and I'd like to get them replaced so it looks somewhat new after I paint the car ! Thanks all!