Left_coast*9

Mike, you were right on the money, it was the axle nut....it had worked itself loose. You da man....

Thanks, Mike, will do!

Thanks for the reply, Torx. I think it's the bearing set, but I will definitely check the rear diff. So how bad is it to keep driving it on bad wheel bearings, if that's it? S'pose it depends on just how bad it sounds, uh? Or could major damage be done?

Hey folks...got some loud crunching that just started this morning, like flipping a switch, (audible only at 5 mph or so and wow is it nasty sounding) and coming from the right rear wheel. Doesn't seem to change the noise when I apply the brake. I am thinking it's a wheel bearing, or perhaps the rear axle...which brings on my question....could it be the Rt rear CV joint? Do these have a tendency to go out immediately like that, or are they like the front CV's, which tend to go out gradually? I would like to buy the parts on the way home and get it done tonight so that's why I ask. Thanks folks!

that might actually be a good idea....any others? Looking especially in southern Puget Sound area...

Howdie folks...I'm looking to give my 86 GL10T 5 spd a brand new paint job. Does anyone have any experience with a good (fairly cheap) paint shop in the Pacific Northwest? I know there's always Maaco, but I thought this would be a good place to start. I am willing to do a little prep work (there is no rust:drunk: ), and obviously don't need a show-quality paint job. Don't want to pay more than the car's worth to get it looking good.

Ok, don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a 1985 (86?) GL-10 turbo w/5spd s/r tranny. The 4WD is engaged via "pushbutton" btwn the front seats. Is it OK to engage the 4WD while moving? Someone told me the car has to be stopped. I thought all 4WD subes were shift on the fly?

Awww...been off the 'board for awhile. Thanks for the correction that it's the 3AT not 3EAT. Northwet...I knew you'd chime in...thanks for the info. You guys too Skip and Caboo. Well, the car just so happens to have a need for a new alternator & oil pump, and I have no idea when or IF the darn timing belts were changed. If they haven't...they're prime for replacement. I'm starting to lose interest.....unless I buy it and plan to just change it to a 5 speed D/R. Then it'd be a dream Subaru Loyale/Leone for me. So are these cars common? Rare?

thanks for the reply, Cougar. So w/o doing a search (sometimes it's difficult to do a good search and get the info you need), what years did they make the 4EAT? I guess if the trans dial reads D, 2, 1 -- then it's a 3EAT, right? Other opinions? thanks, y'all! Blake

Hey folks -- I found a 1987 GL10 EA82T wagon, red w/the cool *pimp* grey interior, air suspension, all power, sunroof, automatic, **LOW MILEAGE** @ 103K:grin: , 13 inch mags w/ all the little circles on them (??), factory spoiler and fog lamps, and seems like a lot of other goodies. Its the single range trans :-\ . This car DOES have some electrical gremlins -- First: 1) The power door locks on the driver's side don't work...literally the driver's door won't open, either from the inside or the outside. Grrrr. 2) Next, I don't think the air suspension works-- when I push the button on the dash, I get no response, no light comes on, etc. 3) The dials/buttons for the HVAC system dont' work perfectly...i.e. the defrost button doesn't hold/work, and at least one other fan setting isn't working well. 4) Pwr windows are, like, SUPER slow in the rear. Grrrr. Aside from electrical, the car runs good, despite some valve tappet which I think could be fixed by a new oil pump or just the gasket. There is one bad dent in the qtr. panel, front, driver's side. NO RUST Price: $1,000. Would this be the 3EAT or the 4EAT? How rare is this car, and what is it worth? How easy would it be to fix the door locks? Thanks for any input! Blake

Hey Northwet...thanks for the welcoming. Yup, my wagon is still for sale-- should publish in the local trader today. My step dad will buy it if it doesn't sell down here. Yeah, I can't haul it up there...too bad...I would love to keep it b/c I think it has a lot of life left. :-\ You prolly saw the pic I posted in the Marketplace. The good news is I am sooooo excited to find a new Subie up there If I had my dream car it would be an 88-90 EA82 T-wagon D/R 5spd with less than 150K miles, white ext, blue interior. I see you have something close to that...lucky dog! Or an RX. I might step up to the Legacy though...5 spd wagon with full power and less that 150K too. Same color combo--I like white cars but ultimately don't care. Please keep me posted if you see or know of anything!

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I am moving to somewhere on the south side...as I will be working in Renton. I used to live in Sumner/Bonney(Booney) Lake, and based on what I've seen for housing prices and what you get...that's where I'll end up. What a change....but the PNW is from whence I came, and I'm glad to return. The place down here in Socal I've found is www.cjee.com. It's one of the few places that actually lists their prices (most of them anyway). I will call around up there and check on prices. So what's better based on the price, reliabiliy, etc...a JDM or a rebuilt EJ22 from CCR engines in CO?

Where can I find a reputable place to buy a replacement EJ22 (JDM or otherwise) for a 1990 Legacy Wgn 5spd --and here's the key-- **IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST**? I have a good source in SoCal ($795), but I would rather buy a replacement motor in Oregon (no tax) or WA. I am moving up to the PNW and wondering if I should buy the motor in Socal and haul it up or just buy it up there. Can you guys help?

I can't believe you're letting a teenager drive that car! Hope it lasts.... jk. We're all jealous.

Rock on, Elsinore...I live about 1/2 mile from the lake. Green water, with lots of white trash, but beautiful nonetheless.

Hey Mr. Radon-- I know it's been awhile, but I am so impressed by your not only your know-how , but by your diligence in updating this board for newbies like me. Changed my first set of timing belts, oil pump, water pump, cap/rotor, etc. this weekend and it was a blast. I now have somewhat of an idea how much work you did. It would have taken me months to do that job. Maybe some day. Anyways, just wanted to give you a shout-out and let you know "job well done".

Ok, found the green connectors...so what's the procedure? Plug these together, fire up the beast and use the timing light as normal or ?? Or do I start the engine, then plug them together, then set timing? Prolly doesn't matter but thought I would ask. Hey Northwet, how do you "set the idle switch to on"?

Thanks, Canajun -- I was able to get them on, altho they're not DEAD ON PERFECT. I should be good to go as soon as I get the ignition timing set correctly.

I think I acutally tried it but as soon as I released the tensioner, it pulled the camshaft sprocket out of alignment. Again. I'll play around with it tonight some more.

I know guys, it seems really lame that I can't get the damn belt lined up. I have no problem getting it on/off, but it is REALLY REALLY tight and every time I try to loop the belt around the camshaft the sprocket moves a little and misaligns. I have even started with it misaligned in every conceivable combination hoping the belt will pull the cam sprocket into aligment with the timing belt cover tic when I'm done but it's never dead-on lined up. I'll get it, it's just super stubborn. Haynes says to start with the driver's side belt (duhhh) and put the belt on the tensioner, crankshaft, oil pump pulley, and idler pulley in that order. Allow any slack (yeah right) to exist under the tensioner, and keep the belt tight along the bottom. Then pull the belt over the camshaft sprocket and voila. As I described above though, the sprocket moves ever so slightly as the tensioner pulls the slack out. That's why I was thinking a camshaft or tensioner wrench would help to keep is steady. I think my next option, like Northwet said, is to put together a pipe or something with two screws that will insert into the holes in the camshaft to keep it from moving. ALSO, I will try to tighten the tensioner in the uppermost position to keep it from forcing the belt downwards (and hence moving the camshaft out of alignment).

See post #2 in this thread from waaay back. Where can I get a tensioner wrench at a decent price? I am having a really hard time lining up the cam sprocket holes with the hole in the timing belt cover and I think this wrench will help a ton. How about the camshaft sprocket wrench? Hopefully these are not special order items. Thanks a ton.

Can you give me a little more details on that, i.e. what are the green connectors?

Yup, checked and double checked the plug wires. I followed the manual, and actually, a thread on this board from awhile back to put those back on. I figure the only thing I could have screwed up is maybe when I reinstalled the new rotor it was off, MAYBE a few degrees. Is a few degrees enough to mess with the ign. timing? My symptoms are that it will run fine at higher RPMs, but it won't idle very well (will clunk around and then die) and I have a check engine light. The light is something I have yet to check into....how do I read the codes? Thanks everyone !

Niiiice.....get out there and enjoy.

Ok, so it's still not running right. I am 95% sure the T-belts are on lined up VERY close. It might be off a *tiny* bit, nowhere NEAR a whole tooth on the sprockets. I tried posting pics (above) but honestly I don't know if I could improve it any, period. So as I stated above, Im off to try the ignition timing. CAN ANYONE POINT ME TO SOME GOOD IGN. TIMING ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS? I have the Haynes manual, but it's not super descriptive. Sorry guys, I've never adjusted the timing, and I tried searching but didn't find much. I am just a newbie mechanic who loves his Subaru. FWIW, this is kinda fun (if not frustrating at times). I'm kinda glad my mechanic is a frappin' thief -- it's driven me to do this work myself and dive into my beloved 88 EA82 4WD wagon! thanks for all your help and suggestions.