Left_coast*9

Yup, and I just rechecked the belts and they look good. I tried to post pics above but no flippin' dice. Maybe I'll try setting up the pics later. I think it's time to tackle the ignition timing issue.

I hope these links work...two pictures, one of the driver's side, one of the passenger's side cam shaft sprockets with timing belts all lined up with the tic marks on the timing belt covers. At least they look lined up to me. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid143/p55e516e94aa1ebad751853188f8e4ba0/f69af081.jpg I'd love to eliminate my TB install as the culprit for my lousy timing. Lemme know what you think. :-\ On edit: had to re-configure pics. hope they work.

Good input, I think you're right...the TBs have to be spot-on or the rest is a waste of time. I'll start there.

What the h*ll is Sea Foam...something to clean the injectors/carb and lines?

Ok, the huge job of replacing the timing belts, oil and water pumps continues. I also replaced the distrib. cap and rotor, which in hindsight was a mistake and here's why: after I got everything all together I cranked the engine over for the first time but it has a very hard time starting. It did run, but the timing is obviously way off. When I lined up the timing belts per all your GREAT advice, and the OK advice of my Hayne's manual, it all looked good and I even turned over the engine manually via the crank and then via the starter motor as well. Still everything seemed to line up, i.e. camshaft pulley tic marks, flywheel/bellhousing, etc. At least as well as can be expected from a visual inspection of plastic timing belt covers, etc. I'm kicking myself for trying to be diligent and replace the dist. cap and rotor b/c now perhaps I didn't get that put back together just right. Now I have two potential failure points: ignition timing and valve timing. Aaaghrghrgrgh:banghead: ****Ok, so my question is, what are the symptoms of the timing belt (valve) timing being off a little bit? And the ignition timing (via the dist. cap)? How do you guys suggest I proceed? This car MUST be put back together and running today. Please help.

100? The Haynes manual says 66-79. I torqued to 70, but I guess I'll get in there and torque it some more. Hate to be cruising at 70 and have schtuff breakin' loose in there. Grrrr

\ Awight, got the freaker. I basically did what 'Nuker said -- found that hole in the top of the flywheel, as seen through the space in the top of the bell housing. I wedged some BS ramdom tools in there and it worked like a charm. Torqued right to spec. Thanks dawg.

Thnx for the reply, Oobnuker. I might try finding that hole in the flywheel and using it, but not sure I want to drill any holes. Is it really that big a deal to remove the starter? Or can someone offer up any other solution? thanks everyone.

Too bad you're in Canada! So are all 370K miles on the same motor w/o a rebuild? Man, that's amazing. Can't wait to take mine that far. I might have to do a head gasket between now and then, but I guess if that's all I have to do then it wouldn't be all bad. late, and thanks for the reply.

Another newbie q'n for ya: How do you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt w/a manual tranny w/o turning the whole crankshaft motor? Unfortunately I wasn't the one to take it off, so I don't know how to secure the crank from moving while torquing on/off. I put it in gear and it still turns a bit and prevents me from torquing it down to spec. Grrrrr The manual says to take off the freakin' starter and wedge a screwdriver in there....is this really the only way? Thanks fellas

Thanks for all the help, Northwet. Say, how do you like the auto trannys in your GL turbo wagons, anyway? Would you have one in a non-turbo?

So how hard is it, or more like how WORTH IT would it be to rebuild or replace a slipping AT in an 86 GL 4WD s/r 4WD Wgn with a fresh one? What would it cost to do it myself? What if you could get an otherwise good condition wagon of this sort, 150K, for around $400, would you guys go for it and fix it? I currently have an 88 DL EA82 5MT s/r 4WD Wgn. and I would be worried about a similar vehicle with an AT being a dog. Thoughts? Thanks!

Litchy - you might post that in separate thread; never know, someone might actually want that car.

and turn the motor (crankshaft) in the clockwise direction, correct?

Wow, you've definitely had us following this story closely. What a high at first with such a score, and then WHAT A LOW! I agree with another poster: tow these bzzzzatches away when the deal is that sweet. Northwet, I hope it works out for ya. On the upside, at least you don't have to make the time or room for it!

Scooby-- thanks, but I just changed my turn signal fluid. My bivalves are all set. Thanks for the replies, all.

Wow, you're kidding. Once I install the driver's side belt, I can leave it be, then simply turn the passenger's side cam sprocket so the small tic mark is pointed down?! Wow, that's seems waaay too easy. All the instructions I have seen say to turn the crank 360 degrees (one turn) and then put the other belt on. What you've described DOES seem to ultimately do the same thing -- just easier. Just want to be sure.

Thanks for replying to all my posts today, RallyRuss. So where the heck do I get a new two-row replacement radiator? I was just going to go through Autozone or maybe Napa for the standard (I assume one-row) replacement. What are they, about $150? $200? thnx

Well, you've prolly seen my other posts re: me replacing my timing belts (88 DL EA82 4WD wagon, 223K mi) -- this job is in progress as I type this. I'm also installing new oil pump, water pump, idler pulley and tensioners. Now I am wondering if I should replace my radiator too. I had to take it out to get to everything else, and noticed that some of the little fins are pretty darn brittle. Is this normal? It looks like it could be the original but it's hard to tell. As far as cooling is concerned, my motor tends to overheat *only* on the hottest days, upper 90's, etc. I have to literally turn the heater on full blast in some cases to keep it from overheating. I see I'm kinda talking myself into it but I have dumped so much $$ into it already I want to avoid it if possible. Thoughts?

Ok, for those of you who helped me with the little fiasco of a sheared oil pump bolt, THANK YOU@! I got the bolt out of the block with vice grips and then was able to replace it with the same size bolt I bought at my local hardware store, whoo-hoo! Got all the following installed: oil pump, water pump, idler pulley, and two tensioners. On to be questions -- {background: car is an '88 DL 1.8L 4WD wagon EA82 non-turbo) 1) Ok, I lined up the three tic mars on the fly wheel (middle one of three) with the mark on the bell housing. Then I lined up the tic mark on the driver's side cam sprocket with the tic mark on the timing cover. When I installed the timing belt (wow is it tight!), it seemed to mis-align the cam tic mark slightly. Is this a big deal or do I need to redo? How precsie do the tic marks have to be lined up in general? 2) This is prolly a really stupid one, forgive me, I'm a newbie Subaru mechanic. Once I get the driver's side belt on, I have to turn the crank 360 degrees before I put the passenger side on, right? *****How do I move the crank? Is it ok to just use a socket wrench (7/8 or 22mm in size I think) to turn it? I'm afraid I'm gonna damage something. Grrrrr thanks everyone. I am almost done.

Right-on, boyz. I got that @#$%er off b/c it's little head was just barely poking out after I took the oil pump off. I used some vice-grips and slowly got it out. Freakin'-A I am stoked. Ok, off to the hardware store to find the right bolt. **fingers WAAAY crossed**.

thanks for the replies once again, everyone! Last thing: so do I need to run to my local Subaru stealer to find a new bolt? Grrrr

Thanks for the replies! So don't use RTV sealant when installing the oil pump? I used it b/c the Haynes manual indicated to do so. How about using RTV w/ the water pump? I'm installing that next.Also, I don't think it says to but I used some medium strength thread lock on these bolts. Should I not use that either? :-\ Thanks ! Lastly (on edit), where can I get another bolt? At the stealer?

Freakin' bummer -- putting in the new oil pump and while torquing one of the bolts sheared. I had the wrench set to 13 ft-lbs and the manual says spec is up to 15.... GD-it! You prolly all know this but there are five bolts total, this is the left-most bolt. Do I need to drill this sucker out or ??. Can I just proceed and see if the other four bolts hold that baby on with no leaks? I DID use a new gasket and RTV sealant. H E L P

Hey folks! I found this site only yesterday and wow is it the Bomb. This is my first post. I have owned Subaru wagons since 1986 and they deserve all the attention and fanfare that this site gives them. I've only scratched the surface in going through all the valuable information here. Ok, so I have a dead Subaru in my driveway at the moment. It's a 1988 1.8L FI with 223K miles. And let me tell you, she's a beauty. But I have to get her fixed so can resume the duty of being my daily driver to work and back, a 126 mile daily trek. So the story is I had someone replace the belts less than 10K miles ago but a bearing froze up and tore all the teeth off one of the belts. The estimate this time around was close to $600 smackers so I told the mechanic screw you (nicely, of course) and decided to do it myself. I am a novice mechanic at best. First, where to get the parts. I called around this morning and NAPA has a timing belt kit for like $284. Beings how I am in a bind, this might be the ticket. Any thoughts? How about Autozone? Should I just goto the damn Subaru stealer for parts? ($$!) I saw some really good info yesterday on timing belt replacements on this board but couldn't find it this morning. Any information you could give me in the form of links to instructions or insight or help would be truly appreciated! So glad I found this site -- I'm sure it'll make my EA82 Subaru life so much the better!