rguyver

sorry about the wait but i now have the proper spacing ring for the smaller backing plate ill still go with the 10$ + shipping for any one who wanted them thanks .

im sure those aren't cheep $$$ thats not the hard part with the swap its still getting XT6 hubs and they are getting rare still working on new rings just need some time on the Laser , its busy at work .

I welded Dodge Omni fender flares on the rear the front is just a hack job . Im going to setup to make the smaller rings Monday so ill let you all know when they are finished .

sorry about that ill get you a new set in the smaller size no charge but it will have to be after the WCSS .

looks like the ones i have are all for the brembos so i will make new ones in the smaller size and i will ship them . ill repost when i have the new ones made , thanks

thats what i am have i thought they were all the same ill have to do a re check .

ya they must have different hub sizes for the sti and that is what i sent you ill have to measure some leg. rear hubs i thought they were all the same . how much were they out ?

Along with the motor/ tranny adapters im also going to bring the weld in ring spacers for the rear brake EA EJ swap . 10$ for one set call dibs i have 5 sets see inner ring welded in then drilled to fit the older bolt pattern .

i could if i can find a post office or fedex in time that weekend but i dont want to do too much running around , do you know any one going to the show that could send it to you ? just pm me your address and ill see if i have time , thanks

itll be around the same price with bolts i just dont want to pack down a box of bolts unless i need to but ill bring enuff for 5 or so plates

i will be taking some adapters to the WCSS again this year and would like to know what the intrest is so i will know how many to bring ? 100$ cash at the show or sweet talk me with BEER look for the drunk Canadians or my STI BRAT ask for Regan . they will not have bolts unless you request now spec -6061 alu. -CNC cut -taped for 3/8 UNC Bolts

i've used 99rs impreza, 92 leg wagon, 2000, outback and wrx , the easier trannys are the ones that just use the cable push type clutch so you dont have to use the hydro cluch peddle set but the hydro turbo clutchs are better and if i had a choice i would use a turbo tranny and the hydrolic turbo clutch , dont cheep out on the clutch ! one guy i did a swap got a new non turbo clutch and it would not hold when he was hard on it like 15psi boost or fast shifting . the hardest part of the swap is just getting all the little parts you need like the shifter console and tranny crosmember they always seem to be missing when i get the parts for the swap . should be very strate forward if you have ever removed a tranny to do a cluch . things like the tranny wiring and speedo cable will be diffrent lots of diffrent small things changed over the years so getting a compleet doner car are a must for a easy swap , make sure you get the rear diff because they dont lable the rear diff in the later years , they could be 3.90, 4.44, 4.11, depending on the car you get it from . there is a diffrence in the engine computer wiring for a turbo 5speed and auto its one wire that has to be cut or grounded (cant remember) but it will change how the engine runs at idle. i have had some cars run fine with out changing this wire and some run like crap if its not changed ? 90-94 leg turbos use the same comp. but seem to have slightlydiffrent wiring to them.

YES DEAR GOD YES!!! the auto turbo legs suck ! but putting in the 5speed just makes the car so much fun and faster . im on my 4th swap on 90's legacys now and its not that hard but you will need a complete 5speed car to get all the necessary little parts, getting just a tranny and then trying to pice all the rest is not fun or cheep .

I locked the keys in my 85 turbo wagon at work one day and it was in the winter and spent 30 min trying to get something to unlock my door when i looked at the bottom of the door and it was rusty and i dont mean "rusty" like a little surface rust like this car was so rusty the rear washer jar fell out of the car the quarters were gone !! so i just peeled up the door skin half way up the door and just reached up and unlocked the door from the out side it was too easy it was funny .

the motor will not run if you have a bad crank angle sensor only way i know how to test it is replace it or check the wiring going to it , its the one on the front of the engine it runs off of the belt drive cog just under the alternator .

I agree its your IAC hose it needs to go in the intake pipe so the MASS air flow reads air flow . you should be able to get away with the cover filters but why risk durt getting in your engine when hose is cheep and it works . looks cool tho

well no one wins the bet !!!! guess what!! when the shop had the air box off they neglected to tell me that they pulled out all the wires going to the mas air flow plug and then went and re pined it all backwards :mad: so after discovering that they were wrong i wired it and it runs great now !! but what gets me is that the comp. didnt give me a fault code for the mass air flow meter ? i didnt really know something was up till i tryed unplugging my dads cars and it ran and stumbled then died the same way . DONT BUY A CAR THAT A SHOP HAS MESSED WITH !!!

2002 and up? WRX rear diff is 3.50 not 3.90 but the front diff is 3.90 there is a reduction gear in the AWD gears to compensate so you will need a wrx rear diff or an svx .

OK get this i've narrowed it down to what i think is a injector ground problem ? the injectors pulse but the noid light is really dim , the + side gets a constant 12V but i dont know how to test the ground side , the ECM pulses the ground side . i used the light on my 2.2 car and it pulses and gets brighter as the engine is revved but i cant keep the 2.5 running unless i spray fuel down the throttle body and the light keeps pulsing when revved but stays dim so i think thats my problem but all i can think to fix it is trace the injector ground out of the ECM and see if its good ? ill be getting a pin out diagram from the Dealer this weekend .

i agree this is the likely cause ! but i dont know how to fix it, if its a pulse problem or cut some how ? it gets constant 40+ psi fuel pressure no real drop when it dies . im looking for the injector relay and hoping its the culpret i think its the one next to the fuel pump and main relay also im going to try to lift the injector rails and see how they are spraying and if they are ? going to cleen the ground wires too .

With the E.C.U i swaped my 98 forester comp. in to my dads 98 outback and it ran fine no codes and no miss fire or stalling but it was a compleetly diffrent p# and my dads car is a U.S. built car and my forester is a Japan built car i think ? so in doing that i expect that my ecm is good ! i didnt try his in my car because i didnt want to damage it if my car has a short that could wreck it .

ill do a recheck on the noid light flash on the injectors . no the ecu didnt match but i ran my 98 forester ecu in a 98 outback wagon and it ran fine so that settled that oh ya i only get a ecu code that is P1722 and it is a tranny code some sorta signal is high ? but i tryed just unpluging the tranny and it still had the same problem ?

all good sugestions and i have tryed them all . cam and crank new fuel pump , has pressure fuel lines are corect replaced MAFS with a known working one replaced ECU with working one new ALT. new fuel filter replaced injectors and injector rails with good ones fuel regulator . ill give a little back story . i got the Forester form a lady that was driving it around with a leaky water pump and was just adding water to it all summer and then it died on her , took it to a shop and they told here it had no fuel pressure and she had no money to fix the water pump and the fuel pump , shop said 1000$ for the fuel and water pump replaced along with the timing belt and related parts for both . So i got the forester for 2000$ in november and it was frozen solid she had run it long with out coolent that it was all water so it cracked the heads , i just replaced the motor , used the orignal intake , replaced the fuel pump and alt. , and since i had it that far apart i changed the tranny and rear diff for a realy good 93 turbo automatic i had . but now it will start and run for a short time and then die it has spark because i can keep it running with a spray bottle if fuel down the throddle body with no miss or stumble . the injectors seem to keep pulsing right to the point of it stoping turning over , tested with injector lights its like something it limmiting the injectors from spraying fuel like a pluged line after the filter ? but i have replaced the injectors with good ones and there filters are good too . thanks for the ideas i have that 100$

good try but on or off it makes no diffrence ?

I'm too cool to ask for help most of the time, but this time....???? so, replaced the long block, tranny and rear diff. now, starts but won't run longer than 5-10 seconds, then stumbles and dies. have check all the obvious, ( replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, alternator, injectors etc...) have checked the MAS, EMC, IAC, vacuum tests good, replaced ECU, no change at all with all new parts....any ideas anyone??? 100 bucks to the one that figures it out...