rguyver

all questions will be answered at the WCSS9 , if i get there

It just just shows you how strong that small 6" ring and pinion are iv seen 30" tires kill stock dana 30s and 44s , but i have also seen the subie rear with a welded diff punch a hole in the iron case with 33" and not brake the stub shafts , i prefer that they brake rather then the axel or diff , i can keep lots of them as spares rather then a compleet diff .

No need to replace them with new bolts , there are more bolts on the subaru crank to hold that fly wheel on then a 500 hp V8 . just loctight them with the red stuff and tork them to spec but i just impact them, on the high setting in a cross pattern , Improper clamping surface beacuse of the sloted holes (for the EJ swap) could stress the bolt if over tightened and brake them over time

If i had time i could :banana:but i have about 4 projects on the go , i just got a 92 loyale turbo with a bad auto tranny that im doing a 5speed swap, intercooler, 3inch no cat exhost , my lifted Hatch needs some shock mound repair (welding) , my boat has to be cleand up for summer , and i have to finish my secret brat project for WCSS9 along with the rest of my stuff . not to worried about the window gasket as long as i get it sometime !

I do have a 91 EJ22 car that im stripping but the engine needs head gaskets it is also a 5 speed so the wiring is a bit easyer but i do have plans for it, but money changes plans to $$ , let me know how much you can get that car for and i could make you a better deal .

We did a 96 OBD2 EJ22 wiring harness and beleve it or not it is just as easy as the OBD1 but it may run lots of codes that could run it in limp mode so maintaining all the stock sencers are a must . this is the best way to start building the harness , get the ACTUAL SUBARU SHOP WIRING BOOK FROM THE DEALER FOR YOUR YEAR OF EJ CAR , best 80$ you will spend , with the wiring out of the car plug in all the scencers , relays , fuel pump , engine , fuse box, ECU, ,ect. ect. ect. every thing that is needed to run the engine , and start cutting , dont be scared the wiring can smell fear and will only make it mad , once you have it all cut up there is no going back just keep looking at your wiring diograms and keep at it . the hardest part will be wiring in to the EA car with the EJ harness POWER and GROUNDs , the ALT. and switched power all have to be corect and everyone will have a diffrent way . thats the best i can explane with out getting you confused and ME :-\

Ya its called Saltair , good guys! but ya a bit pricey , little to no parts for 90s and older stuff and the ferry ride cost makes it hard to get parts for less then new .

They are expencive for old subaru parts , since i can buy a compleet car privately for 100$ bucks and they sell an engine for a 1000$ :-\ but they do have a lot of subarus if you dont have a nother option .

In Kelowna there is a "Pick Your Part" that is good and cheep for older car parts and they get in subarus all the time . I have never seen a Leone as far as i know they are all Loyales up here .

If all goes well i will be going but ill have to conferrm closer to the time

i have had this happen and if you realy need the block apart a hammer and punch on the liner will brake the liner apart enuff to get the pin out but the block is trash if you dont sleeve it , it is almost always cheeper to get a new block , beacuse if that happened it is most likely over heated and the head bolt threds will strip out , had that happen on a rebuild after the bottem end was assembled

cant remember what tap but its a regular metric tap i had in my kit it took me all of 1/2 h to put in the sensor in the water crossover under the intake , it was also a good time to change the coolent o rings and intake gaskets they needed to be they were leaking . try the risistor if you think thats easer .

Thats What i did and it works great ! the wiring even plugs in , you dont need the EJ sender because there is a seprate sender for the comp. also puting the the sender in the rad will give you improper engine temp because with the thermostat closed there is no flow and if it sticks you could have a cold rad and an overheated engine .

Hi Dale hope you get the rad in the back all worked out and Ivan should be able to help with the wiring , also i have a compleet XT6 wireing harness sitting out of a car if you need it .

how long has the car sat ? i have seen several EA engines with dead injectors and yes ALL 4 and ALL 6 on an XT6 change one injector and try to start the car if it fires at all its got dead injectors i dont know what causes it to happen but i had a 86 turbo car that one day miss fired on one side then i changed the ingector , and a day later the one right next to it dyed and i changed it and its 5 years later and still good ! I also changed an XT6 engine with one i had sitting for 3years and and tryed to start it but all 6 injectors would not fire so swaping all of them out from the orignal engine fixed it , they could have stuck from sitting with bad gas and would not free up ?

Ill thank everyone for being so great ! it was so well orginised for a event of its size , or everyone just knew what to do it just worked out that way , Car show , mud pit and rally cross all went great with out any problems . I would like to see WCSS9 at the same place that was geat! There will always be those that cause a problem but if thats all we had i say it was a sucess , and if all it takes is 4 Canadians to be what you call loud imagin if there was more ! i blame it on the cheep beer:drunk: What was the best time at the rally cross? my best was 1,11 i think, but i could have got under 1 if i stayed longer . thanks agane !

I wouldnt tow it with out them they hold the berring preload and with out them they could loosen off and wreck the berrings or worse fall out .

Thats Cool !! why a Forester ? and was it a wrecked Sti that you got the parts from ?

Im going down through the Osoyoos / Orville border Xing and a trip to Van would add 5h on my trip but thanks for the offer . Ill have to go to my friends house whare i store some of my subaru stuff to see if i have a head thats off the engine and a EGR pipe, i could bring it to the show? im trying to leave thursday but it will prob. be friday , im taking the my brat .

well if i can find a good used head (not sure how much $ but cheep ) it will only cost you a headgasket and you will at least have a running brat till you get all the EJ parts ready .

That sucks i was hopeing to see the brat at wcss . Clattery lifters can hammer the seats loose, over heating can cause that too . Is it a 1600 or 1800 ? do you have a replacment head? if not i should have some around some ware 1600 or 1800 . i wouldnt worry about the piston just make sure the ring lands are ok not pinching the rings and get a new headgasket and a new head good to go

As a welder by trade ill tell you that you could be the best welder in the world and that will just brake agane , "note that the weld never broke" the pipe broke just after the WELD and just putting more weld wont help for long its the header flexing up and down everytime you hit the gas the only proper way to stop it from ever braking it to put a gusset near the flange and solid mounting brackets all the way down the header bolted to the engine and tranny solidly to stop the pipe from flexing, also do you dont have a proper flex joint at the end of it , not the donut type but the braded flex pipe is a must on a subaru because of the soft tranny mounts . Most aftermarket headers dont have proper mounting points for subarus because they are use to making small Honda headers

Its the CV axels that dont fit in the EA81 car they are all to long for the smaller car you will need to cut them down or get custom shafts built . the rest can be easyly moded to fit the car if you dont mind cutting , welding and drilling,

thats great , how long was the tranny sitting around , it could have just got some moisture in it and stuck it in first , and it will just need to be worked in .

It sounds like the tranny needs to come apart but i would try everything else before i would do that , like agressive shifter movment to free the scyncro , try 1st to reverse , If the tranny was in a car that was in a accedent strange things happen and somthing could have broke in the tranny like the shifter fork or chiped a tooth causing it to be stuck in 1st . If you remove the back of the tranny case you will see the part that pushes the shifter rods and it should move freely and have little to know ware on it , its hard to explane what it should do with out seeing it . Good luck