rguyver

you going to fix it or is he going to sell it im looking for a cheep well used baja i dont mind a little water damage

I find that the rubber caps just hold the water IN ! i have found the best thing is to silicone the cap down and put some around the end of the plugs as you push the wires down and use a good amount of contact greese so the ends dont rust up , a nother good idea is to put a hose in the drane hole on the bottem of the dist. and plum it in to the air intake or out of the way of any water . Happy SUBING

Its not hard to get 4.44 or 4.11s in a sube tranny i have had 2 EJ 4.11 trannys but its hard to get a pinion shaft that is settup for the D/R EA tranny that is actualy a true 4x4 not an AWD, they have diffrent pinion shafts .

Hi the names Regan and if you need any help ill be glad to do it just to see if you can make the 4.44 work in some sort of D/R gear box i have several EA D/R + S/R and EJ trannys apart and even a EA RX D/R tranny a forester and a RS EJ tranny . I live in Kelowna and if i ever get around to going to the Van. island i could drop off any thing you need to make this work , i have family in Victoria .

thanks but i not only have one but three !! 1983 WRX brat , a 1984 Brat that im going to build in to a huge 4x4 with 35" bogers and a 1978 all orignal 130 000 km Brat needles to say im a brat hog i would have to charge 200$ per side for the axel shafts its a lot of labour but i have had som intrest in making several sets so that may lower the price .

see Retrofiting WRX brat for axel mods and suspention

well if i dont pop the hood it still looks like a EA81 car LOL:lol:

Ill get this post back on track ! I have yet to run my brat down the track but my WRX EJ20T pulls it to a 13.2 at 104mph with .99g force in the 1/4 mile acording to my Auto meter DPIC gauge with 180 whp but i have not dynoed it beacuse the nearst 4wd dyno is 6h away and over 100$ a run, i dont need a dyno to tell me my car is fast ! I hopeing to get mid 12's with upping the boost and good tires .

well i have the WRX master cylinder for braking along with steel braded lines for the front and dot 4 fluid , it stops realy good with a bit of peddle effort but i think thats beacuse to booster is smaller then the WRX one (you can swap the booster from a EA 82 car with some hammer work in the strut tower area but i didnt want too) it could be better if i had vented roters and the WRX front calipers, dont get me wrong you wont be doing any top speed runs at 150+mph the car is not built for that , my side glass gets sucked out at 100mph and since its a brat the box creats a wind drag effect that makes the back end light , a tonue cover or the canopy would fix that , and a front air dam would give it better down force in the front . Im autocrossing it and i have the XT6 rear sway bar and a custom built sway bar mounts and end linkes that mount to the controll arms not the tirods , the front bar is a stock 70s plymouth Cuda' 7/8" one that i had lying around from when i up graded my Cuda's but i still need to lower it and put stiffer springs and shocks in it, i think i can make the front struts out of the WRX work with some mods. tires will make the bigest diffrences 15"+ are needed with good rubber, i made a set of 16" stock impreza rubber bald in two months lots of weel spin out of corners

The axels are stock XT6 that i cut enuff out of the middle so they were the same size as the EA81 cars and press fit 1/4 " wall seemless pipe over them then welded the ends up ,I ran them in the lathe to make sure they were strate , doing them this way cost me nothing to do compared to hundrids to get them shortened and resplined , and i know there strong beacuse we uses to do this with lifted off roaders that had 31" tires and had know problem if welded and press fit properly. I havent seen or herd of a nother WRX brat in north America but the Ausies did if first! even one with a compleet STI swap .

Ya its driveable and it will do a 0-60 in 4.4s and a 13.2 at 104mph , i have a autometer DPIC gforce gage and that is at 14-15psi boost and no engine mods, stock 2000 impreza rims and tires ,a short ram intake K&N filter 3" no cat exhost and scilicone intercooler hoses, NO computer mods or turbo or injectors but that is soon to come hopefully a good used STI turbo if i can find one cheep + injectors and a AEM engine management comp. so i can run 20psi boost, but that will add $3000 to my project and i can allready keep up with a STI and i wouldnt want to embarress them too bad with a 10,000 dollar CA. 83 brat

Well seeing that the EJ swap is getting more common ill add my two cents , A year a go i got a 2002 WRX wagon that was rolled and intended to swap the engine and tranny in to my 85 brat ,that i built in to a turbo brat with a RX trans and LSD diff and XT6 brakes and 5 lug pattern . The WRX was compleet and i pulled everything out that i thought i would need and then some . things you need are , compleet engine and tranny , diff , all cv axels , wireing harness , fuel pump + fuel pump controler /locaded near the rear weelwell it runs the fuel pump! , shifter linkage, driveshaft, and its a good idea to get a compleet car for a doner beacuse there is all the little things that you dont think of that you will need beacuse when i got my car it had no O2 sencer and no Mass air so that cost me an extea 600$ , The hard parts! wireing wireing wireing !!! dont start this project if you dont like soddering wires and reading wireing diograms !! i got the subaru shop book for the 2002 WRX and for 10 weeks i could tell you what wire did what . CV Axels will need to be custom built if you are going to put the tranny in to the EA81 car, i cut and shortened then welded two ends from the XT6 axels , this was nessary for the RX tranny too , the rear is a little easer , you have to use the outer cups and shafts from the EA81 car but the inner cups from the WRX diff need to be used beacuse they have no pins like the older diffs . ENGINE AND tranny , the cross member needs the mount holes slotted 3/4 " up and the frame needs to be hammered 1/2 inch in right ware the timing covers are "driver side only " and a custom tranny mount will have to be welded up , see pics at http://spaces.msn.com/rguyver/photos/?_c02_owner=1 more to come !http://tk.files.storage.msn.com/x1pi5lc1-zbMIROsd-DGXcvPPbFY2FocB-2c-R6bsVetyGbUpPqXK0yiJagWNQqBfK5HzzJk_WrC8dgdz9dCJzO05HSJGnwNdUpk22DOwuSbVfrIl-lyYgTLJxYLj--djx4KCpYBW6PmyiTJlCoIBq-RQ

I dont want to hijack this thred for his WRX hatch swap so ill start a new one" WRX BRAT"

ya i would like to get a round to dooing a rightup on all my mods but getting time is hard so for now ill answer all the questions i can

the WRX brake cylinder is a direct bolt in with a new line for the front outlet .

just so you all know you CANT! use the EA81t dist. it has no crank angle sensor pickup in it, the SPFI dist. is like all the hotwire mass air flow engines it just has a disc and a pickup in it and no vacume advance the computer works the rest. it is best to use the dist. from the same wiring harness beacuse there were slight plug difrences over the years .

i had to do a custom welded peddle set i had to build a jig to hold all the parts in the right spot when i welded it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8263

RX's and XT6's have bigger tirods and they are a direct swap to any EA82 type car or a stronger way is to cut the rod and sleave over a tight fitting pipe and weld the ends , if properly welded it should be stronger then the stock ones .

The Rx tranny is just a D/R with a locking center diff and that is just what it is , it just has a set of spider gears on the rear out put shaft like some of the EJ trannys and but no clutches , if you lock the front brakes with the Ebrake you will do a rear drive burn out but i would not recomend it , and with the diff unlocked it is full time giving power to the tires with the least traction ,yes i said the least if you get one tire off the ground it will go no ware , trust me i have one all apart in my shop , they are not a good off road tranny beacuse they are a 3.70 with a 500 rpm drop low range .

i dont want to know how fast it would be OK NO I REALY JUST KIDDING I WANT A RIDE!!!!!! WARE DO I SIGN MY LIFE AWAY i wonder if he has the BALLS to hit 1st 2nd 3rd gear full throdle then hold on for 4th and 5th !!!!

i gess i missread that , you just have a fuel pump signal wire not corect , but all you have to do is just add power to the pump i never ran it through the ECU. just a realay and key on power started it . beacuse i think when you have it pluged in it sets it at base timing for ajusting the dist. timing , cant remember for sure ?

the fuel pump is normal to cycle on and off when the green plugs are pluged in , its a check conector , you dont have it pluged in when you are running the car , it sounds like you got it all working properly , and the power sounds right, just a little bit more then the carb , but i found it was a lot more reliable off road then the carb if you dont fry the comp. i did that once and was stuck 2h up in the bush and had to get a ride home to get my spare ECU , the O2 scencer wire got cooked on the exhost and some how shorted it out

Ya just diffrent rod ends .

Im using the WRX rack , that is shortened at the inner tirod ends and some saddle mods to get it to fit porperly for the ujoints , but the stock rack works with the XT6 nuckles you just have to use the XT6 outer tirods , you may have to rethred and shorten the inner tirods too , there are lots of slightly difrent stering wracks they used over the years 80-90 , power or non .

:lol: :lol: I find this all amusing no one will all agree on this one but thats what message boards are for ................ :banana: just sit back and wach the bananas dance