benebob

:lol:

Buggie parts are still better than cheese (even though you're behind even Vermont in cheese production!)

Checked my local Advance (no NAPAs within 20 minutes) and there aren't any studs long enough there in the help section I guess b/c I don't live in or close to the land of American Iron. If you can get 'em cheap then go for it but if not you'll be fine with the tap and rebar. As I said before no need to drill as the subie stud is actually a hair bigger than the bit for the retap so drilling would be well POINTLESS! Just be sure to get some wheel bearing grease or the an actual oil for tapping. FYI the tap is a little hard to come by as my local box stores don't have it. I think Sears its a specal order thing too. Tyler don't use a bolt. Use a stud set up so it makes it that much harder to over tighten it. Keep in mind if you use rebar to put some washers on the rebar prior to cutting the rebar. Newbees sometimes cut at an angle and thus can't thread it on right.

Yeah, I got a tough day on tap tomorrow. Must take down some political race signs for 4 hours. This rat race is KILLING me!

Just registered the XT although I don't know if or when I will be there aside from an hour to autox.

You're still here giving crappy advice? Go enjoy you're bike as its already proven to be slower around the turns than a car as cars consistantly put up better road track times than bikes. Plain and simple. If you'd read (or have someone read a GRM to ya look at the April issue this past year and you'll see where that 14 came from). On a nice hot humid fl day too. Sure a rod isn't ideal BUT IT WORKS. I guess something that works doesn't count unless it involves 3x the amount of work to ya. Again why are you here anyways. I'd think you'd be happier on the I'm superior to you because I go out of my way to make my life more difficult board. Personally I'd rather fix it so it will last as long as the original on a 10 year old car as the car won't be around long enough to warrant another replacement. Then I can use the time for more important things. I guess you don't have anything better to do.

Actually, I depore fighting or arguing. I just don't like chest pounding for idiotic reasons or bad advice to a newbe. Sure I could make it go faster but its a race car not a straight line perfomer. Besides, at this point its never been beaten by a n/a SVX and it came in under $2006. Let alone one with an auto and a completely bone stock motor in it. I've actually never dragged it. I believe cars come with 5 wheels for a reason.

Wouldn't touch you're car with that kind of additude there buddy. His inexperience is why I said do the threading rather than a helicoil. 1. Its easier. As strong as factory, FYI there I explained that you do not need to force the tap in at all the hole is virtually identical to the what the tap needs. 2. I got this advice from my Subaru cert. mechanic about 14 or so years ago and have done it ever since to virtually every used subie I've bought never to have one come out or an issue to speak of. That has been working on Subarus since the ORIGINAL DL. Are you a cert. Subaru mechanic? Didn't think so. 3. As I said, to each his own but reality is if you have 4 strong studs in there a helicoil is overkill. 4. If he screws up a helicoil then its a heck of a lot more trouble to fix. 5. I recommended no incorrect methods, simply an easier solution to his problem then you instead of pounding my fists on my cheast to prove my penis is bigger then yours. Then again, I'd trust someone with 11 posts over someone that has been here forever, HELPS out when he can and knows enough to put an stock engined SVX into the low 14s with an auto tranny to boot!

Personally I'd trust it more than a helicoil.

You don't need a helicoil with the fix I suggested. Don't even need a drill. Just a tap that'll regrind the hole to the SAE size and some wheel bearing grease to help it turn nice. Will be as strong as a factory stud was if done right.

I've never had one rust under there. In fact I find 'em perfectly easy to service. To each his own but honestly its a 15 year old car. I'd be more concerned with rot elsewhere then a exhaust stud.

Yeah 7/16th is probably it. Nice and cheap at a Home improvement center. For $3 you'll get enough threaded pipe to do 'em all.

Another option is to go get threaded rebar in the I wanna say 3/8 inch course pitch size but I don't think that's right (regardless it'll be just slightly larger than the standard Subie exhaust stud. Then you get a threader and some grease and go to town. Don't even need to drill the hole out it'll just go right into the stud hole just fine. I've never had one that I redid like this come out.

Congrats, I have most of a 57 S-101. Looks like yours but its a 4 stroke 250cc engine. Doesn't have a light there, nor a horn but just a center trim piece. Horn is behind it.

Only thing I can think of would be a brake band adjustment but I would doubt that's it. It does have fluid in it right?

$65 but you'd have to pull it.

Wrong, esp if you are bipassing the stock cooler in the radiator. You need the heat of the radiator to warm up the fluid in the winter otherwise you'll never lock the torque converter in an SVX. Cold fluid is just as bad as burnt fluid. Don't use the attachements they give you to do it though. Make you're own brackets. $1400 seems very cheap unless it is overly high miles, broken windshield (which it is tough to get with the gasket as it is a one piece set up from Subaru and though to remove), or other issues. An SVX is about 2x the price of the same vintage Legacy to maintain so much is not done since they're not worth a ton and youngsters who can't afford the car and maint. tend to get 'em. As for being fwd, it'll still have a weaker tranny than it should. Tough to get a replacement for as it is fwd not awd. If you convert it to awd there is a ton involved and it'll be horrible in the snow for the most part with all that torque!.

I've never had one that does it. In fact I know our racer will lock up the rears under hard braking dives as the rear lifts of the ground but it doesn't send power back there.

Subaru paint sucks worse than 80s GM paint. It just stays on longer.:-\ Best bet is to leave that 2-3 second distance between you and the car in front. 5 seconds if its a truck. You're paint will thank you.

Somewhat. Same bell housing bolt pattern, own ration 3.53 and it has a beefier clutch pack set up but otherwise exactly the same down to the wiring harness with same era legacy and not-so-impressive.

Then maybe you don't know the right dealers:banana: . I think he's saying about loosing grounds (which is the first thing I'd do). Why do you have a new alt and where did it come from? I'm wondering if it has a bad regulator in it.

I've actually tried with car part but there isn't any logic to the numbering that I can see. For the most part the 3.9, 4.11 and 4.44 follow patterns but there are plenty of oddballs out there. Just looking for knowledge as we've run into some questions with trannies for our race SVX. When you pull a new tranny that the rear dif doesn't say what ratio it is you just wonder in the back of your head if it is the "right" gearing for what the car should be or if its an anomaly.

Just the final drive ratio once the tranny has been pulled as it makes it difficult if ya don't know where she came from. Subaru wasn't any help claiming the numbers didn't mean anything.

Hey John, to you have the decifer system for the tranny codes? If so can you pm or post which one tells the gearing?