Tiny Clark

Try leaving it in third gear most of the time, until you hit the open roads. I do that with my wife's legacy, and she hates it, but the response is better and you won't lose that much MPG.

If they had the 225 slant 6 in them, they'd probably go for hours...

The bottom bolt can be a bear. At least, it wasn't easy on my '96, maybe yours is different. If you have the new starter, look that one over and you'll know a bit more when you take the old one out. Good Luck

I love your enthusiasm, but if you don't know what a starter looks like to find it, you probably have no business tearing one apart.

Shoot her, take the 7 1/2 years with time off for good behavior, get your 3 square meals a day, let your savings work for you while you study in the prison library and get your law degree. Like in California, 3 strikes, become a lawyer!

I'll reply to your private message as well, since I don't know what a WRX is. 1. You didn't say what a deal you got on the car in your original post. I certainly wouldn't have posted the way I did if that was the case. 2. Sorry, but laser cut, zircon encrusted spark plugs aren't going to give you any appreciable HP gains, regardless of what all the advertisements state. 3. If you put on a custom exaust, which would be your best bet, make sure they install an exhaust. 4. Before you go messing with the intake, be aware that putting a cone filter on it without having some way to get cold air to it won't help. 5. Try out some chrome moly muffler bearings and high compression tire valves, you snotty little $hit, and spent a few nights at Neverland Ranch.

I'll get beat up for sure, especially after enjoying a Havana cigar and some quality port to cloud my brain... Change your oil and your wife regularly, and even your fuel filter, although I'm still on the same one after 105k miles.

Can I get a whopper with fries and a coke? OK, I'll take a McFish with fries and a Dr Pepper. Sorry... but I'm old, and I'm happy; I was once like you are now, and I know that it's not easy, to find a car that has all the things, that I cry for... (my sincerest apologies to Cat Stevens) Why buy what you didn't want?

Hmm, what would it take to turn Maria Sharipova into a dude? NOT!!!!!!!!!!!

The problem is the solenoid contacts inside the starter. The click is the solenoid engaging, but since the contacts in the starter are arced, the starter won't kick in.

Don't have the answer as to why, but use the shift lever instead of your foot.

It's my understanding that the fluid in the converter doesn't just flow in and out like that. I do know that years ago, a hole had to be drilled on Chebby T.C's to drain them. Nature of the beast I think. Probably the best thing is to change fluid regularly. And if you do go in to have it rebuilt, find a local ATRA certified tranny place, and stay away from the powersellers at AAMCO, Mr. Transmission, etc. If the guy at a local shop stands by his work, he'll give you phone numbers of satisfied customers you can call. Remember, it's your 1,500 bucks.

Usually, the ground side is the switched side. 12V is fed to one side of the relay and it awaits a ground to complete the circuit. On some cars, the ground is supplied directly by a thermal switch. Apparently, as Josh POINTED OUT, on your car the ECU supplies the ground. Download the diagram at the link he posted and go from there.

Thanks for the info. I was just looking at a diagram and wondered why the ECU needed to be hooked into the circuit.

Are you sure they put the right dipstick back in after they were through with your car? Is it long enought to go down into the pan?

Drive it a bit at a decent speed, then check the pipe and see how cold it is. The compressor needs to run faster than idle to work properly. If the pipe is getting cold, but you don't feel cold air at the vents, then I think your flap inside the ducting system may be stuck or something.

1. Check and clean battery terminals. 2. Have you tried jumpstarting? 3. Do you get a loud click from the starter when you turn the key? If so, then the solenoid contacts inside the starter are bad, as they get arced up after many starts. If not, make sure the 12 volts from the key switch is getting to the small terminal on the starter.

I drive T-rated summer tires and S rated winter tires here, and have never has a problem doing 85mph+ for hours.

Costco boys are full of $hit.

If you don't have a voltmeter, invest in a test light. They have a sharp point on them, so you can pierce the wire and easily check for the presence of 12 volts with the key on and off.

If it had a Greek name, would we have to enter it from the rear?

Use your old rubber bulb turkey baster to suck the fluid out, then by a new one. It's probaby time to replace it anyway. It makes the job easy.

Is the pipe going to the evaporator inside getting cold?

All three of these look like they are from the same source, BOB. I take BOB and everyone else with a grain of kosher salt. I've had many cars over the years, never submitted my oil for analysis (although I could probably have our fuels folks do a spectrum check on it for free) and always had over 100k miles on them, still running like the day I bought them. My suggestion: stick with Mobil 1, use the weight appropriate for your local temps, change it regularly, and leave your worries in the rear view mirror. That is my 2 Euro-cents worth.

Thanks for the update, Pat. It kind of sucks sometimes when suggestions are given, and there is never a follow-up. This kind of feedback is very helpful!!