Tiny Clark

I've never taken mine apart in the subie, but usually, the resistors are usually located inside the ducting (to cool the wire coils) by the motor. They would probably be mounted on the same piece that the power for the blower fan connects to. Maybe someone else can chime on on exact location, but you shoul be able to find it just by checking around the area by the motor.

The threads only need to be greased if you want it to work the next time. Just ask the crew and passengers that were on the Alaska airlines flight that went down off the coast of California how much importance grease has on a large screw drive.

Why don't you get a nice cheap hydraulic floor jack to do all the stuff you do at home? You can get one for less than 20 bucks if you shop around, and they are more stable than the standard jack.

I didn't have the o-ring when I resealed my pump last week, but it looked to me like they went around the o-ring port with sealant on original install anyway. I did the same, but opted to use Permatex #2 non-hardening Perm-a-gasket because I didn't want to do it again. I've never found anything that works better to keep oil from leaking thru. I also sealed up the passenger side rear cam bearing cover with the same stuff.

That filter is probably a dealer only part. It's not cost effective for other parts places to stock them.

I just did my water pump, front crank seal, resealed the oil pump (with good old Permatex #2) and did pull the radiator. With the extra room I got out of it, it was worth the half hour to pull it. One observation I did note from the book for the timing belt change... The book said to align the marks on the belt with the cam and crank marks. So, I was surprised that the marks weren't lined up when I pulled the covers off and turned the crank over a few times. So I just lined the crank and cam marks to where they are supposed to be and put the new belt on with the marks matched up. After I got the new belt on, I cranked the thing over by hand, with the plugs pulled, about 15 times, and the marks on the belt never lined up with the crank/cam marks again. I don't know how many turns it would take to get them to come back into alignment, but I didn't want to spend all day bending over the engine.

P.S. gas mileage is important! ????? And you bought a Subie for the MPG?

Make sure your compressor clutch is engaging when you turn the A/C switch on. If it isn't engaging, there could be several reasons for it. USUALLY, if it's low on freon, it will momentarily engage, then shut off.

Yup, what RC said. On the diagram for my '96, the switch sends a ground to pin 2 of the relay, which enegizes it and sends the 12 volts coming in to the relay on pin 4 out pin 3 to the motor. The contacts could have arced together. You should be able to check the relay. My guess is it's under the panel beneath the steering column. Tiny

Well, if there's no gas getting to the cylinders, as evidenced by the plugs not being wet, or a gas smell when the plugs are pulled, the injectors are not working, which are controlled by the ECU.

You could always pull the output hose off the filter, put a few feet of fuel hose onto the filter and into a gas can, and turn the key on. Fuel should pump out of the filter at a pretty good rate. That will let you know if you're at least getting fuel to the injector rail.

A compression test will find a leaking head gasket. USUALLY, there isn't any coolant in the oil because it's pull into the combustion chamber and burned.

May have a vacuum leak, among many possibilites. Put a new catalytic converter on it, it's there for a reason. No, I'm not a tree hugger, but every little bit helps.

Pull a plug and see if it's wet with gas. While you have the plug out, clamp it to some metal on the engine with the plug wire attached and turn it over. That will tell you if you have spark.

An NTE960 voltage regulator would probably power that clock. It's only about a 1/2 x 1/2 inch and puts out 5 VDC @ 1 amp with up to 35 volts in. Since my wife's subie didn't have one, I bought a $16.00 timex with luminous hands, cut off the band holders with my dremel to make it nice and round, and mounted it between the two vents with a piece of velcro. It's even the same color as the dash. And now it's like the good old days. It's not 11:43, it's a quarter to 12! Tiny

It will weaken your A-post so it won't be as strong in a roll-over in the woods.

I don't know why they couldn't put an inside vulcanized patch on that hole in the first place. Oh wait, they sell new tires...

Gee, and for an extra dollar, Subaru could have stuck a voltage regulator in the circuit. Cheap bastages!!!

You left a beer can on the coil pack and crushed it when you closed the hood. When it warmed up, it expanded and caused arcing across the pack.

I always do a rough measurement when I empty my fluid drain pan into a gallon jug for disposal. This just popped into my head while thinking about it. Buy a new pan for draining the fluid into, and fill it up quart by quart with water, marking each level. Then you'll pretty much know exactly what is taken out when you drain the fluid. Tiny

I don't know how the fuel pump can warm up, if it's immersed in gasoline. Of course, I am assuming the pump is in-tank on this model. If it runs good when first started, and can run 70+ mph, then the pump would be putting out plenty of fuel. Have the codes pulled, maybe you have some sort of temp or O2 sensor problem.

Unless coated properly, copper and aluminum are not a good mix as far as corrosion is concerned.

Put a small piece of wood or metal across the piston and it will push straight back, and you won't have to turn the clamp screw so much.

Go buy a cheap made-in-China 6" c-clamp to push the piston back in. You can buy rotors at Autozone or Advance for about 25-30 bucks a piece.

With that kind of mileage, you could be looking at the stuff commuter mentioned, along with CV joints and differential.