Tiny Clark

Twin turbo 400PS (HP) 400 lbs torque 35% front/65% rear drive through a 5 speed auto, and Variable torque distribution. All this on 275/35 ZR 21's in the front and 325/30 ZR 21's in the rear. Must be some short-a$$ed CV drives. Now if they could just fix the nose, I thought Barbara Streisand's was bad...

Since you'd have to take it out to fix it, take it out and replace it with an CD player.

Do what I do, use a key, then you don't have to worry about honks or lights... Tiny

Compression tests are good for bad valves and rings, but with a head gasket, the area that leaks is usually very small. Couple that small area with the fact that you are blowing air into the pressurized cooling system, and you will see a only a slight decrease in pressure. If the leak was that bad, your radiator would be bubbling like crazy. As has been said on this board before, testing the coolant is the best way, or maybe a pressure test on the cooling system. It's hard to choke out the words "Sorry that you have to get a head job", but in this case, I guess it fits.

Very interesting... A 225/60 15 will have the same contact area as a 165/75 15? That's amazing!! Too bad the volkswagon people didn't know that when they made the beetle to drive on ice and snow. They would have put wider tires on it.

Struts aren't that expensive, but you can always spend lots of money if you want. Autozone has 'em for 70 bucks a crack for the front. Used ones may be bad. Too much work for a crap shoot.

Narrower tires = more pounds per square inch of tire surface. More lbs/Sq inch = better traction.

I never changed mine out either, until the recent Fumoto valve upgrade. Never had a drop of a leak.

I use Bosch, and also put the same size on both sides, just makes it easier when buying blades. I know, I know, I can buy two packs of different sizes, but to me, it's easier my way. Besides, I'd probably lose the extra blades in my garage and have to buy another two packs the nest time.

Over here in Deutschland, we refer to gas mileage as 10L/100K, or 10 liters per 100 kilometers. which is about what I get in my Subie and Beemer (OK, a little less in the Subie, maybe 10.5/100K).

Blame the building industry... Hey Bubba, lets get these 5x10's nailed up for the wall frame, then cover it with 122x245 sheetrock. Oh yea, grab some M6x40 drywall screws while yer at it!! No one wants to build 2.45 meter high ceilings either.

They use automatics in dragsters for some reason... maybe because they are basically faster?

Check this out. Pretty severe hail damage... http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432739715&category=18277

Have you even looked at the pump to find out where it is or checked the connector? Maybe you should do that first, get an idea of where the parts are, then ask questions. I'm not trying to be hard on you, but when these kind of questions are asked, I get the feeling the person asking them is not mekanikally inklined. But, go for it and you'll get a lot of personal satisfaction out of it. You might want to get a test light to make sure 12 volts is getting to the pump. A lot cheaper than a meter, and sometimes more handy! Tiny

Mobil 1 10W30 for 7,500 miles, new filter and top off every 2,500.

Josh, ever see a transmission interior that was dirty? ATF is an excellent hand cleaner too, except it's a pain in the butt to get the ATF off.

One good thing about having a carb, you can pour stuff straight into the engine without hunting for the right hose. We used to use ATF to clean up the top end.

Good job Dude!!! I knew if you hung in there, with some outside help, you could handle it. I hate it when a non-carbon based life form gets the best of me...

Usually, they will only go down as far as the rear fender cutout on the door will let them. Tiny

If it isn't an interference motor, then all internal parts should be O.K. I can't even see a crank suffering damage with an interference engine. Maybe valves and pistons, but not the crank, unless its the keyway. I know many people who have had belts break and engine damage on other cars, but no crank problems. I would have them put the belt back on correctly, with a new tensioner, new seals, and see if it lights up. Or you could do it yourself again. I hate dealership "mechanics" anyway. Not a crack team of professionals, but a professional team on crack!

If the relay is pulling the contacts down (clicking), take it apart and clean the contacts. They just get arced up a bit. This way you'll have a spare. Tiny

I would still check on the alternator recall. Maybe it affects your vehicle, maybe not. At worst it takes a few minutes at a dealer to find out, at best you get a new one installed for free. Tiny

Wow, it amazes me that a steel keyway would break like that... or did they use aluminum to help reduce total curb weight? LMAO

Do you even know if you have spark? Hook one of the old spark plugs up to a plug wire, or pull one out of the engine, clamp the base to ground and crank it over to see if you have any spark at all. If you do have spark and it doesn't start, pull a plug to check for wet gas on the plugs. If they aren't wet, your problem is fuel, or lack thereof... If you have fuel and spark, then I would have to guess that it's a severe timing problem. Tiny

A couple drops of brake fluid on the rubber/steel mating surfaces will usually stop those noises.