Tiny Clark

Unless you are heavily armed...

Yea, if you do run the defroster mode, your fans will be on due to the A/C running. Use a piece of cardboard to block part of the radiator.

Yea. ditto on what Cougar said since you disconnected the box. If there is no ground present for a lamp circuit, it will find another path if it's there, through a bulb.

The brake and turn signals are "switched" in the trailer light adapter box with diodes. If one of the diodes is shorted, it will cause this problem.

If it is the starter contacts, and it sounds like it to me, you will hear the clicking of the solenoid in the starter. The reason it works intermittently is that the contacts will hit arced spots sometimes, and spots clean enough to pass the juice at other times.

Sounds like symptoms of low coolant level to me.

Sorry, but not my 2 liter staight six.

pour some denatured alcohol in with it.

If you cut the input hose to the heater core and install the fitting there, the water you flush with will go thru the heater core. If you install it in the output hose, it won't go thru the heater core. It really won't make a diff, there's hardly any water/coolant in the core compared to the whole system capacity.

I don't even take my beemer over 4500 revs. Abuse will always come back to haunt you, whether it's a dog, wife, kid, or a car...

If your heater core was leaking, you'd smell it and it would have fogged your windows up with a film.

I used an old button and sewed it on.

The idea is to get the engine a bit warm to heat the oil up a bit, so the summamabich will crank. it doesn't take much. The Japanese use to have heaters right on their oil pans, don't know what they do now. You did damage one thing, yer wallet when you have to pay your frikkin' electric bill!

Not sure on your model, but usually, you can see a cable going to the ductwork under the dash by the floor. Move your temp control back and forth to see if there's anything moving. Usually, the flap is located around the center of the ducting, very close to where the heater core would be.

I believe... Don't make any difference which hose you cut, there's no valves or anything to keep the water going one way or the other. Do the easiest one to get to.

And try to drive downhill all the time...

Yea, second vote for the strut.

I owned a 95 Porsche 944 at one time. The valves were hydraulic, and the engine had the highest HP output for a normally aspirated engine on the market. So screw mechanical valve adjustments, unless you are racing.

Good ones!

As nomad says, use a relay and use the high beam voltage on the car to energize the relay. Piece of cake. If you don't think so, maybe you should have someone else help you.

My money's on the hills are bigger bigger than they look. It doesn't take much for mine to kick into 3rd. Easy way to tell is how far the gas pedal is depressed.

Good deal, and thanks for writing back!

I just love it when people use them if the roads are wet, the glare of two sets of lights makes it so much easier for me to see, NOT! I guess that's why you're not supposed to use them in Germany except for fog. Fog lights are also set up to spread light to the side of the road, not just in front of the car.

IMO, you won't see that much of an improvement with syn oil. My mpg seems to be about 25mpg average all the time, 2.2 with A/T, dino synth oil. Your air cleaner is new, yes? Maybe you could take a 100 mile trip or so and see how much gas you use to be certain of your MPG.

There's another recent post on this. May be the relay, but don't have any info on where it is.