Cougar

I suggest you at least use a test light to verify that power is getting past the relay when the trouble is occurring. If power is okay there then check for a bad connection at the connector between the relay and the pump.

The trouble is most likely with the connector going to the bulb. Get a test light and check for voltage getting to the bulb. If voltage is getting to it then you have a ground lead connection problem.

Somebody please call a wrecker.

There is a safety switch involved with the starter circuit. The shifter needs to be in the PARK position if it is an AT. They moving the shifter around while trying to start the engine to see if that helps. There is a switch on the clutch pedal if it is a manual. You could bypass that by adding a switched connection to power and the ignition contact of the starter solenoid to get it going and then find the real trouble when you get it to a better location to work on it.

Another thing to check is the wiring in the bulb socket. The socket got hot enough to melt the wire insulation in it and the wires (ground and hot) shorted. We disconnected one side at a time to help find the side with the trouble. The driver side had the problem.

I think is one of the relays located in the relay panel next to the dash fuse panel.

One of the most common an overlooked problems and very easily fixed is bad battery connections. Like was already stated, cleaning the connections will most likely fix the issue. Don't over tighten the battery clamps, which is another common issue. It is a good idea to spray a sealer over the cleaned connections to keep corrosion from returning. If that step doesn't fix the issue then clean the battery to chassis ground connection along with the other engine grounds.

Make sure the battery to chassis ground and the dash grounding is good. It sounds like you may have a grounding issue.

Ebay is a good place to find replacement remotes for a reasonable price. Here is a link to a site that can help you. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine

Hopefully you have cleaned the battery connections already. One common problem area for this kind of thing is the connector for the ignition switch. Look for signs of burning at the connector. Make sure the fusible links are making solid connection. If power seems to be okay to everything except the starter circuit then the safety switch is a good bet for the trouble. Get at least a test light probe so you can verify where power is getting to while you are having the trouble. Find out which dash fuse suppies power to the stater solenoid and make sure power is getting to it while the trouble is happening. Use the slits on top of the fuse to check for power.

Check the inhibit switch circuit and make sure 12 volts is getting to the starter solenoid wire when in the START mode..

If you have a wire harness connection for a trailer then check that connector.

I suspect you may have damaged some wire insulation when you did the jump to the battery and some wires may be shorted together now. The wires in the ignition switch harness may be where the damage is at. Disconnect the connector for the switch and see if that stops the trouble. There may be other damaged wires also.

Unless the coil is open or the wiring on the minus side of the coil has a short to ground on it you should se voltage on both sides of the coil using ground as reference. If the minus side wiring is shorted to ground the coil body should get hot if the ignition has been left on for a while.

Another thing you could try doing when the trouble happens is to spray a small amount of starter fluid into the intake to see if that changes things. If that fires the engine then it would seem to be a fuel issue and not an ignition problem.

I suggest you try to find a service shop that specializes in electrical repairs. They should have the parts you really need to fix this. You can't use a normal wire crimper tool for this or connectors. You are going to need something for 8 or 6 gauge wire most likely. If the remaining end of the wire is long enough a new terminal could be crimped on it, otherwise you will have to splice a small section onto the end with a new terminal on it. You should also try to find another boot to go over the stud connection. It leaves the hot connection exposed without it. If a ground comes into contact with that it's good by fuse. Make sure the connection to the alternator is clean an snug tight, not over tightened.

Make sure the battery warning light turns on when you turn the ignition key to ON or RUN. If that light doesn't work the alternator will not function. You should have near battery voltage on both of the wires on the back side of the alternator while the engine is running. If that is good then check the voltage at the output stud of the alternator. If that looks good then measure the voltage between that point and the positive battery post while charging. You should see less than a .3 volt difference if the wiring and fusible link are good. If you haven't checked the fusible links already they are in the small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Check for loose contact connections to the links. Some folks have found bad connections on the bottom side of the box also.

Like Naru stated, you need to verify power is getting to the plus and minus sides of the coil when the ignition is on. Also verify fuse 5 in the dash panel is good and has power to it.

Here is the definition of code P0051: The heater control circuit voltage is too low on bank 2 sensor 1. This means that the front sensor (before the CAT) on bank 2 (driver side of an American made Subaru) has too low of voltage on the heater circuit. Normally 12 volts is sent to the heater coil when the engine is cold. This heats up the O2 sensor faster to get it working correctly. It is likely that the new sensor wasn't installed correctly and is miswired. If power was mistakenly applied to the sensor output lead then the sensor could have been damaged and a replacement will be needed. If the wires are correctly connected then it would appear that there is a break in one of the two leads. The power side or the ground side of the circuit. Since the other sensors seem to work okay I have to think the power to them, which passes through the Main Relay, is good.

Thanks for the notice on that Caboobaroo.

If the radio doesn't have an external amp tied into the system then the problem has to be internal to the radio itself. I would have to think the trouble is within the volume control section of the circuit. Perhaps a faulty capacitor is causing the issue. The easiest and least expensive way to fix this is to get a used OEM radio to replace yours. You should be able to find one on Ebay or a salvage yard. Here is a link that shows you how to get at yours to replace it, if you decide to do that. You could also install a new radio that has the 3.5mm jack option if you want to go that route.

How do you know only one cylinder isn't working when the trouble happens? Have you proven that? I could see two not working due to an electrical problem but not just one, unless there is a mechanical problem with the cylinder.

Looking at the first picture it looks to me that the oil may be coming from above, though the seal may be leaking also. Notice the dark plug at the top of the picture and the way the oil seems to have a cleaner path way possibly due to the fresh oil coming down. How does the area above that look for signs of oil? I suspect the plug on the left just has a ridge where oil can collect and isn't really leaking from there.

The first place I suggest you for the trouble is the fusible links located in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Check for loose connections. Some folks have found bad connections on the bottom side of the panel also. If that area is okay then the ignition switch may be the next best suspect. Check to see if the dash fuses are getting power when the trouble happens. If they aren't then the trouble is between the fusible links and the ignition switch wiring. The fuel pump may be getting weak since going up hills is a problem. If that problem still happens after you fix the connection problem I suggest you replace the pump.

I would suspect an ignition problem before a fuel problem. To see if it is a fuel problem spray a small amount of starter fluid into the intake when the trouble happens again. If it strarts up then it is afuel issue. If it still doesn't run suspect an ignition problem. Always check for power first if that is the case.