Cougar

I totally agree with you Gloyale. I basically stated the same thing in my earlier posts. But statements made by the OP made things sound like some power circuits were bridged somewhere that should not have been. For instance, in one post he stated that by pulling out the right side headlight relay, it allowed the turn signals work.

It sounds like the starter solenoid contacts need to be replaced.

Isn't that the normal dealer service response Gloyale? .....LOL Thanks for info. I do seem to kind of remember something about that now that you bring that up. As far as the wire colors go, the ones the OP mentioned exactly match the colors shown in my FSM for the right side HL.

That is even more wattage than I thought it would be. Maybe using resistors that size a seat heater could be designed. LOL. Summertime use may not be so pleasent though. Darn, back to the drawing board.

It sounds to me that the T-stat got stuck closed so then the engine overheated but the radiator stayed cool and so no cooling fan came on. I would find it surprising that anyone here on this site would be laughing about this Connie. But if there is, there are way more people pulling for you. Glen

If you are planning to use ceramic resistors I think you will find that they will make the size of the mod to be pretty large. You may need 10 to 20 watt sizes.

DOH! I missed seeing the no spark issue the first time. I suggest you look at the ignition relay. It may be on the right side of the steering column. It may be in a brown socket. You may get some results just taoping on it with a screwdriver handle. Check to see if the white wires have voltage on them when the ignition switch is ON. I think you will find this to be the trouble.

If the CEL light is on then you either have stored codes or the ECU is bad.

That is fuse 10 alright. It appears you have a power circuit that is bridged to another somehow. It may be on the backside of the fuse panel. It also may be in the steering column. If there is a connector near the steering column you could try disconnecting it and see what happens.

Good deal. I just noticed what city you are in. It looks like we are neighbors.

The oil pressure light is supplied power through fuse 12 and if that fuse was bad there would be a lot of things not working. The light may be bad so check it. By grounding the other lead to the bulb it should light up. The ECU light may be bad also. The ECU controls the ground for that lamp and the circuit inside the ECU sometimes goes bad. If the ECU wasn't getting power the engine wouldn't run.

The power to the E-brake circuit comes from fuse 12. Something isn't right here. Either you are not stating the correct fuse numbers or there is a major problem in the wiring. I am using a manual for an '88 model but I think there is very little difference in the two, if any.

The headlights should not be getting any power to them with their respective relays pulled out. It also sounds like the turn signals are getting power from the headlight circuit somehow. The combination switch may have a problem or the wiring to it in the steering column. There may be some damaged wires due to the use of the circuit breaker.

The ignition relay and fuel pump relay may be a problem and they do cause trouble now and then. Check to see if you have voltage getting to the pump motor using chassis ground as the reference.

Have you checked to see if the radiator has any cool spots. Maybe it is plugged.

Have you check for any detected error codes? It sounds like you have may have a major error code. A fast pulsing light means a more urgent problem has been detected I believe.

The thermoswitch turns on the fan by completing the ground circuit to the fan. You should be able to active the fan by following the advice that NorthWet gave. Remove the connector to the switch and jumper those connections together in the socket. If that doesn't work then there is a high resistance connection between the power source to the fan and that connector or one end the connector isn't connecting to ground.

Make sure that you have voltage getting to the switch. Check the fuses.

The relays you describe are for the blower, the left and right headlights, and the rear defogger. Going by the wire colors you gave it sounds like you pulled the relay for the right side headlight. That uses fuse #8, not 10. If the short is cleared by removing that relay then the fuse number is wrong.

If you haven't checked out what Gloyale said to do I suggest you do that. He has most likely pinpointed the trouble area.

The problem you are having doesn't appear to be typical. Usually it is the AM section that picks up noise, not the FM section. This is due to the way the modulation design works. I wonder if something is wrong inside the radio. I suggest you check and see if the noise goes away if you disconnect the antenna. If the noise is still present then it is most likely due to a problem inside the radio. There possibly could be noise feeding into it through the power lead I suppose but that is fairly remote I would say.

Well the problem is caused by a short in the wiring somewhere but the real question is; where is the short? The dash right turn signal indicator not working may be a clue but it may not be also. That may be just a connection problem in the turn signal switch. It would really help to have some more clues to pin down the area of trouble. Does the fuse blow when a certain thing is turned on or switched? The back up light circuit is a good place to start. Along with the turn signals and BU switch, fuse 10 supplies power to the 4WD selector switch, and power window control relay.

You can check to see if the alternator is causing the trouble. While the car is not running you can pull the connector from the back side of the alternator, that will disable it. Then start it up and see what happens. After the check turn the car off and replace the connector. Alternator noise usually appears as a whinning sound in the audio and you can hear the RPM changes in the whine as the alternator changes speed. A bad antenna ground can cause this thing also.

Perhaps what is going on with this is there are two problems and the lastest one couldn't show up until the switch was replaced. Hondasucks brought up a good point about the clutch pedal. Maybe the switch on it is having a problem. I suggest you check the operation of the switch using an ohmmeter to see if it is working like it should. A note about clearing codes. When that is done it also clears the monitors and things have to be relearned in the ECU. If an IM test is due real soon after they are cleared it could cause the test to fail due to a lack of enough monitors being set.

I believe the code is saying that the circuit has an unexpected high resistance to the switch. Check the connections to the switch, they may be loose.