Cougar

Test. Sorry about the test. For some reason my previous post was not showing up until I did this post.

Try posting in the Stuff Wanted section for this and check the Stuff for Sale.

It sounds to me there is a grounding problem possibly that is causing some of the trouble at least. Clean the ground wires running between the battery and the chassis. Also do the same in the dash area. Every car I have owned I was able to turn on the dome light with the dimmer switch. I haven't owned a Brat but it seems logical that it would be the same for it. There is a switch on the light also.

I have to wonder how the car could be running normal and have such poor mileage performance. I suggest you check for a gas leak to see if something is leaking under pressure. You also need to find out what is causing the CEL light to be turned on. Get the codes read and post them here. Perhaps they will be a clue to the trouble.

Pulling the fuse will decrease the current since the circuit will be open then.

There seems to be a problem with the reply button on this thread. I could only access a reply through the quote button, Have you made sure the coolent sensor for the ECU is working as it should be? A bad sensor can make the engine run rich.

It sounds like there may be a problem with the license plate lights. They shouldn't have come on unless the light switch is on, so check the switch also.

Check the fuses under the hood and make sure none are blown. That may explain a couple of the codes at least.

Just a little 'smidge' of silicone around the rim of the cover should work well to seal the spot and if you needed to get back in there it wouldn't be a real mess. Silicone is pretty amazing stuff. Glad to hear the clock is still working ok. I think you are still covered by our extended warranty program if something does happen.

Welcome to the forum. Nice looking Soob you have there. You may be able to find a manual on Ebay. Here is one that may work for you model or be close at least. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-SUBARU-LEGACY-OWNERS-MANUAL-PORTFOLIO_W0QQitemZ180290570540QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180290570540&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Instead of replacing them I think applying a small dab of silicone will work to keep them in place and seal the area. PS: How is the clock doing?

I would suspect the wiper problem is due to a problem with the park switch inside the wiper motor. The other issues sound like there is a connection problem in the main power buss somewhere. I would check the panel under the hood first. Tapping lightly on suspected areas with a screwdriver handle may help find the trouble.

Since the CEL light is turning on you may be able to get some clues to this trouble by getting the codes that are stored in the ECU. Here is a link to help you retrieve the codes. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

You're welcome for the help. There are a lot of other good posters with helpful hints to give. With the recent problem of the site access people are getting connected again here after the hack-in. Get some NGKs that have a higher heat rating than the current ones you are using. You may want to step up one or two heat ranges. That should help at least to burn off the oil deposits collecting on the plugs. I have heard that replacing cam sensor has helped with this kind of thing but I don't think it is a common problem fixer of this type of trouble. It may help in your case but I can't say for sure. I suggest you try swapping it only if nothing else works to fix the trouble. Using a vacuum gauge may help show up things like a sticky valve if there is something like that going on. Running some Seafoam through the intake of the engine may help clear some carbon deposits that have built up in the cylinders. I would also do a compression check to see what that shows up.

Another thing to check is for leaking intake manifold gaskets. After the engine warms up the gaskets may be sealing up and not leaking.

The gauges you mention have a voltage regulator so there may be a problem with it. The turn signal problem may be due to something going on in the flasher unit.

I recommend you get a hotter style plug and new plug wires.

Good deal. Thanks for the update.

Most likely due to just a loose connector problem.

It sounds like the plugs are fouling due to the high mileage on the engine. I suggest you use NGK plugs and step up the heat rating on them over the normal ones to help burn off the oil getting on them.

You can use an ohmmeter or a voltmeter to check the TPS sensor.

The problem may be with the throttle position sensor.

Interesting. Thanks for the notice McDave.

Voltage to all the lights should always be 12 volts except in the DRL mode and there is a dropping resistor in the circuit to reduce the current of the light circuit. The most likely problem is the socket is bad due to burned contacts.

Since moving the fuse panel around under the dash things changed it sounds to me that there is a connection problem to that fuse panel in the buss wire going to the main panel under the hood. Another possibility is one of the relays in the panel may be bad.