Cougar

You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback.

First check to see if power is getting to the pump by checking the voltage to it, compared to ground. If there isn't any voltage check the fuses and relay for a problem. If voltage is getting to the pump then the ground side may not be working as Porcupine73 stated. If the pump runs by applying power directly to it as GD suggested then you know the pump is ok and have verified the ECU ground for the pump isn't working. There should be some past info on that as I have shown some others how to fix that trouble by replacing a small TO-92 transistor in the ECU. Cost is about 2 dollars for the part. Another poster provided some nice pictures of the area in the ECU also to refer to.

Have you made sure that the problem isn't due to something else related to the alternator? Checked the fuses?

It would help us out greatly if you told us what the code number is in order to help you with this problem. There are a number of things that will cause a O2 sensor code to occur. In most cases the sensor itself isn't the problem so changing it out doesn't mean the real problem will go away. Places like Autozone will tell you what codes have been stored for free.

Good deal. Thanks for the update.

I suggest you mark the position of the disty where it is now. Then loosen the bolt so you can reposition it. While someone cranks the engine try moving the disty angle slightly in either direction. Hopefully you will get some firing action then.

The advice the clickerfixit guy gave you is correct.

Check the voltage on the main battery lead where it ties to the solenoid, while the key is turned to the START position. If you have 12 volts there at that time then the starter is defective.

You are indeed correct Richard. Choice number one is the correct answer to the trouble. The driver's side timing belt is broken.

When you pulled the end cap of the starter motor by mistake you may have disturbed the brushes for the motor. They are spring loaded and contact the commutator of the motor. If you have 12 volts at the main battery lead on the solenoid, while it is on, then the trouble is inside the starter motor. The brushes may also be bad and you need to replace them like you did the contacts. If the voltage is low at the solenoid (<9 volts) then the main battery lead appears to be bad or the connection to the battery is dirty. Check the ground cable also.

It would be a little hard for me to believe that CCR would send out an engine with bad valve timing. I recommend you check the compression first before checking the timing belts. Placing the disty in 180 out doesn't effect valve timing but it does effect ignition timing. Perhaps you are feeling a slight backfire from the ignition. If the compression is good then the disty may be the problem here. By placing your finger in the plug hole for number one cylinder and feeling for pressure by moving the crank you will know that the piston is on the firing stroke. Place the piston at TDC and then check the rotor position in the disty. It should point to the wire for number one. I think the rotor turns CCW and the firing order is 1,3,2,4 if I remember correctly.

I think you are right about the master cylinder. You may need to replace it.

I would be very surprised if it does fit in there though I know the Soobs can handle a good load. My Chrysler van can handle a sheet of plywood inside it but that is different in size of course. I have put full sheets on top of the luggage rack of the Soob. You have to be very careful that it doesn't become a sail when you do that.

Since you stated that air is backing out the carb I suspect the valve timing is wrong. The intake valve isn't closing when it should be and air is being pushed back out the carb by the piston. A compression test will prove that.

Check the lid of the panel. It should be marked. Edit: Opps I see I was too late with this. Glad you got it fixed. Put the gallon of gas in the tank. Every drop is precious.

Check to see if fuse 26 is ok in the main fuse box under the hood.

I think the "new smoke" procedure has been successfully done before but it is a very long, complicated process and way beyond the scope of this forum.

I don't think you have an alternator or a battery problem. What I suspect is going on with this is a connection problem in the main power accessories buss lead. It very well could be a connection to the ignition switch, like you thought. Check the connections to the switch under the steering column. It is a fairly common problem. What is happening is when you turn on a load like the lights, the bad connection will drop some voltage across it due to the resistance of the bad connection and current running through it. This is like having a series resistor in the power lead to the load. The load will not be supplied the full voltage then. Check the fusible links also for a bad connection. You are going to find a burned connection somewhere in the main accessories power buss wiring.

The code you gave is for the knock sensor circuit. This means the circuit to the sensor needs to be checked. Most likely there is a loose connection to the sensor.

If you are trying to measure the resistance of the sensor wiper connection it doesn't matter how you do it really. The resistance should be same mounted in on the engine or not mounted on it.

The blown fuse is due to the power lead shorting to ground rather than a bad ground. Check the wire connection where the wires go through door jamb. There may be a break there connecting to ground.

Erratic signal response due to a dirty TPS wiper connection won't be always seen as a problem by the ECU.

The readings shouldn't change between the hot and cold temperatures. I'm not sure why you got such high resistance readings on your measurement. That shouldn't be happening. It kind of looks to me the TPS sensor is flakey at least.

Good suggestion about the alternator McDave. That is possible.

There is no light warning system that I am aware of. There is a relay for each side of the headlights and they provide power to both the low and high beams. So if the high beams are working ok, the relays and fuses to the headlights are good. Either the light switch position for the lows is bad or both low beam filaments are bad. I suggest you purchase a new headlamp and see if that fixes things. The only thing I can think that would be causing the clicking is the flasher unit. Make sure the flasher switch is all the way out in the OFF position.