Cougar

The cleaning pros use a biocide to remove oders and that may work. I would see if spaying the interior down with something like that will work before purchasing it.

The relay switch contacts may be bad. It sounds like the relay was trying activate the seatbelts but due bad relay contacts it can't.

Did you look under the dash near the steering column?

Congrats on the new purchase EVO. Watch out for that boost, it has caused ruin to many a good Soob owners.

There may be a bad spot on the TPS sensor causing this. You could monitor the voltage to the ECU to see if that is correct.

The exciter or the commonly called L (lamp) wire is always tied to the battery through the charge warning indicator lamp and ignition switch. When the switch is ON, current is applied from the battery to the alternator connection in order to get the excitation process going when you start the car. There still is voltage from the battery present when the alternator is running but the current in the circuit drops down since there is voltage now also present from the working alternator. The color for the exciter wire is usually wht/red. Like GD mentioned, the other small lead ties to the battery also for the regulator circuit. Along with the main output lead, all of these leads are on fused circuits so in case something shorts them out there is protection.

The switch is the part you move with your hand to lock and unlock the doors. The actuator motor is the solenoid that moves the lock mechanism.

I agree with you NorthWet. Having both the factory set of manuals and a CD version is a great way to go. Even if you had to pay 100 dollars for a factory set of manuals it is still a bargin when you consider the time and money the manuals can save you by having them on hand when trouble happens. They can pay for themselves on the the first problem you use them on if they save you from taking it in to a shop for service. At the very least, the wiring manual is a must have item in my book.

The factory manual is very good to have. I'm sure you will find one on Ebay if you keep looking. The problem may be with the connection to the ignition switch so check the connector under the steering column and check for signs of burn damage there. Also check the fusible links for a bad connection in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.

There is a red/yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch to the sub fan relay on pin 4. You could tie a small 12 volt light to some wires and connect the light to that connection and ground. The should turn on with the ignition switch but if it doesn't then you have pinned down the ignition switch as the problem. You could also just replace the switch and hope that you got it. I would give it a good chance as being the trouble.

"Something is not right here, either I don't have the right pin, or there is a short in the wire somewhere" Not a short, just the opposite, an open condition. The ground is missing. I don't think the advice from the previous poster will work on the trouble you are having. The way the circuit works, power is provided to the light (and you have confimed that) and the ground side of the lamp is controlled inside the ECU. You have also proved that the connection is good to the ECU (good troubleshooting). I think there is a an IC inside the ECU that makes the ground to turn the light on when it needs to. I have replaced that IC in ECUs that have this kind of trouble. They can go bad at times. You will either have to replace the bad component or replace the ECU.

In case you are not aware, the ECU usually controls the ground lead side to the pump. The voltage supply wire to the pump is hot.

If there were other codes stored you would have seen them. All you do is count the flashes and if there there are multiple codes you would have seen them. The coolant sensor is a common source of trouble for this kind of problem you described. I think the resistance of the sensor should be around 50 ohms when the engine is at normal operating temp but I am not exactly sure. One thing you can do to see if it is working is to check the resistance when it is cold and then when it is hot. You should see a big change in resistance. The cold resistance reading may be about 2,500 ohms.

The ECU controls the pump but if it doesn't see a proper response from the ignition system it will disable the pump. The code 11 is for the crank angle sensor or circuit so it is causing the ECU to shut down the pump. You probably aren't getting any spark either due to that. The other codes have to do with the airflow meter or circuit to it. There may be a common power source to both of these areas and a fuse has blown for some reason. Without looking at some prints that sounds like the most likely scenario here. So if you haven't checked the fuses yet, do that. The problem may also be a broken power wire also to those areas so having something to check for power with is a must.

I think you are wise in letting this one go. Use the repair money for a down payment on something newer and with less mileage.

I believe the relay is under the dash near the steering column. Sorry I can't be more specific.

I agree with what you say there Nipper. I just don't equate a high as a short, as you stated earlier.

Are you sure about that Nipper? Usually a high condition would mean a 'open' condition I would think. Like the circuit isn't terminated.

There was more than that on the recall list. You may need to get with the Subaru area rep and see what is up. You may want to print this out for reference. http://www.automallusa.net/1997/subaru/legacy/recalls.html

To remove the door panel you may have a few screws to remove. Use a small putty knife to feel for the plastic pins along the door panel and carefully pry them out of the holes in the door. I'm not sure, but you may be able to remove the switch panel from the door without removing the door panel.

You're welcome for the help. When you get time you can check things out further on the switch. Drive on!

Fuses 2, 3, and 17 are tied to the areas you mention and others. They tie to a red/yel wire going to pin 2 of the ignition switch. It appears that section of the switch is bad or a connection point to it. The other side of the switch ties to SBF-4 (main panel under the hood) on a blk/yel wire.

The switch is a common failure point. Cleaning the contacts inside the switch sometimes corrects that. There may be a broken wire in the door jamb also.

Have you checked the intake manifold gaskets for an air leak as a possible cause of this trouble?

You didn't state if you have keyless entry or not and if so, is it working? Regardless, there should be a module behind the glove box that handles the control of the locks. It looks like fuse #3 supplies power to it.