Cougar

The fan belt does drive the compressor but there is an electric clutch used on it that lets the pulley free wheel when the AC system is turned off. That clutch needs a fairly high current to operate it and uses a relay circuit. There is also wiring used to run the extra cooling fan needed when using the AC. I suggest you get a factory service manual for the model year of the system you are working with and study it.

Use a test light probe to verify power to the fuses under the hood. If all the fuses are okay then you need to check the wiring beyond the panel. There doesn't appear to be a common fuse the areas you mentioned having trouble. Some folks have had corrosion trouble on the bottom side of the fuse panel.

I'm not sure what the inline devices are but if I have to guess they may be one way valves to prevent fuel back flow.

For your reference, there are fusible links inside the plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir incase weren't aware of that. They can develope loose connections at times and cause electrical outages.

I am wondering about the MAP sensor. I suspect it may be causing the issue. I also wonder if the TPS sensor might have a problem when the throttle is moved quickly so an incorrect voltage is getting to the ECU for the position it is at. That is kind of a long shot possibly.

In order to change direction of the motor you simply reverse the polarity of the battery connections to the motor. That is done by using a momentary double pole, double throw switch, and where off is in the middle position. Push the switch one direction and the window goes a certain direction. Push the switch the other way and the window goes the opposite way. The two center contacts of the switch tie to the motor. Power and ground are tied to one side of the outer contacts and then the two wires are reversed going to the other outer set of contacts. Using your existing switch should work but if it is bad get another used one from a salvage yard and solder the connections if you have to. The switches are often refered to as rocker switches. Here is an example of one: http://www.newark.com/eaton/sarmxxcxxxxxxxx/switch-rocker-dpdt-12a-black/dp/07R7846

More than likely the trouble is due to a loose fusible link connection. Make sure they are making good solid connection. If that is okay then check the underside of that block for a problem. The trouble could also be with the ignition switch. Get a test light probe so you can verify where power is getting to. Even though a fuse is good it is the same as a bad fuse if power isn't getting to it.

Fusible links supply power to multiple things, not just a single load, so removing a link suppling power to that will remove power to a number of things. Heartless, you are correct about the wire size and current rating.

It looks like you are on the right track after looking at the info I have. On the connector tied directly to the assembly, pin 5 provides power to the pump motor and pin 6 is tied to ground.

The O2 sensor is located in the exhaust system, not the ECU. Code 12 has to do with the ignition switch START position. Common issues for the engine not starting up with these cars are broken timing belts, faulty pickup sensors inside the disty, and faulty igniters, if you have one.

Silicon adhesive?! used on the plugwires - oh my gosh!

I helped a friend out some time ago with his Loyale that was blowing so much smoke out the tail pipe is was like going through a smoke screen. Fortunately he had a new spare PCV valve in the garage. We changed it out to see if that worked and then there was no more smoke. Easy fix.

I believe the turbo model has a lower compression ratio than the normal engine does. They might use different pistons to achive that but I'm not sure. I suggest you check this out before doing anything with the engine install. You don't want to possibly blow it up after it is installed.

The actual code is P0325. You can look up error codes on the net and even find suggestions on how to fix the trouble. The code you have there means there is a cricuit problem to the Bank 1 knock sensor. The sensor itself could be bad or the wiring between the ECU and the sensor could have a problem. Usually there is a single wire that ties the two points together. More than likely the sensor is faulty. It is a fairly common problem.

The link is rated by the size of the special wire used to make the link. You need a 1.25mm2 lead.

I don't think it matters much as long as the connectors match up. Things like a turbo option, engine size, and transmissions may come into play. There are places that sell rebuilt units that you could refer to about that.

Normal current draw on the battery should be around 15-20 milliamps when the car is parked and things have gone into the sleep mode. If you don't already have a meter to measure current with then I suggest you purchase one so you can check the draw on the battery.

I think the radio is made by Clarion and looking at the rear side of a unit there is a square connector on the lower right side that seems to for a changer unit. I don't see a way to control it from the front panel but there may be some way to do it. After looking at some things on Ebay there is a product called Yatour Digital CD changer available. Do a search on Ebay for that and see if that would be off interest to you. It gives you several ways to hook up music sources. Also do a Ebay search for 'Car digital music changer Bluetooth iPOD USB'.

The transistor is called the ignitor in the drawings. I think you can get them at a regular parts store.

Ruparts makes a good point. If you haven't proved the switch is really bad then you should check the resistor pack as that is what usually goes bad a way lot more than the switch does when having speed control problems.

There also should be a circuit to increase the idle RPMs slightly when power is drawn from the charging circuit.

If you can no longer get one from a Subaru parts shop you will have to go to a salvage yard for one. You could also try the parts section of this forum.

The trouble may be due to a problem with the alternator. To see if that is the case disconnect the plug on the back side of the alternator. Then start the engine and see if the lights go out. If they do then the alternator has some bad diodes inside it.

The info I have for an '88 model shows two power sources tie to the radio. One for the radio and one for the memory. The power for the radio is on a blu/yel wire and the memory power is on a green wire. It sounds like your radio has mistakenly been hooked up to the lighting circuit for power to it. There is usually wires tied to the lighting system for the radio display, but not to power the radio.

Getting a car you want with engine issues at a low price would be nice if you could wait for the work to get done on it. Then you know things with the engine should be good for some time. The Bajas are nice also but you may have a hard time finding one in your price range.