Cougar

It does sound like it is bad.

I assume the OP is working on his '83 Soob which is stated in his profile area. It is easier when they state what it is in the first part of the post though. I made a reply to this in post #25 of another thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82917&page=3

I suggest you clean the corrosion from the connectors first. Doing that may clear the trouble. If it doesn't then if there is a way to disconnect the trailer convertor I would try that to see what happens. To check for bad diodes it is best to use a digital meter, using the diode check function. Placing the probes across a good diode will show a reading of about .6 in the forward direction and a high reading in the reverse direction. If this problem is due to a bad diode you will most likely find one that is shorted.

I would first check for voltage getting to the black/white and also the blue wires running to the REV sensor. These are the input and output power wires.

Since you have a warranty you may still be better off using it than purchasing a new delay module. Check out the price for one at the dealer and see if you are money ahead by doing that.

I went through this a long time ago on my '88 GL-10. I think you are correct on both counts, about the size and depth. I had to get a shallow depth speaker to stay away from the window mechanism. I suppose you could make an adapter ring to place the new speaker in and make it fit that way.

I assume that this problem is only going on with the dash lights and other things like the headlights are fine. If that is the case, I agree with Skip and the trouble is just isolated to the dash light circuit. The question now is; where is it? First off, I would like to know if the dimmer control is set to the high position while the trouble occurs. If it is, then the trouble is most likely with a connector for the lights and not the dimmer control but it still could be. Like Skip stated, I also suggest you start the hunt for the trouble at the dimmer control using a test light probe. The info I have is for a different year so it may not be the same for your model year. It shows that a red green wire ties to the dash lights. Testing needs to be done while the trouble is occurring. By placing the probe between ground and that wire you should be able to dim the light on the probe using the dimmer control. If the probe light works and the dash lights don't then the trouble is after the control. If you have no light on the probe then check the red wire going to the control. It should be 12 volts and light the light up. If there is voltage there then the problem is with the dimmer control but be sure to check that black wire going to the dimmer control is really at ground potential by placing your probe tip on it. There should be no light there if the ground is good.

Most audio units built today use a "balanced or isolated output" circuit to drive the speakers. The audio PA output circuit to the speakers is designed to tie directly to the speakers and should not tie to chassis ground. Most folks that install new units in their car are aware of this I think. There still may be some units made with a "single ended output" design that does use one of the leads to the speakers tied to ground but I haven't seen one in some time. But then, it has been some time since I have installed a new stereo system in a car.

The green wire with a constant 12 volts on it is for the memory. You will need to turn the key to ON to determine the power wire for the radio if the colors don't match to the reference given.

I assume from your statements about the trouble that the engine is turning over but just not firing up. I also assume that the ignition has been checked and is working also so you are down to a fuel delivery problem. If that is the case then I would check the fuel pump relay for a problem. It is the kind of thing that can be effected by temperature. Tapping on it while the trouble is occurring may prove it.

Here is a link to a thread that was posted in the past. Post #5 shows the colors. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62239&highlight=radio+wiring Edit: I see cd45 (who posted this reply) is online right now looking at this.

While you are inside the door I recommend you also check the voltage getting to the motor, while it is running, to make sure proper voltage is getting to it. If the voltage is low it will cause the trouble also.

Not true. Running a alternator on a battery with a shorted cell will cause the alternator to have an early death.

It sounds like there is a problem with the delay circuit or the control to it.

It shouldn't damage anything as far as I know. If things were causing excessive current flow a fuse would blow.

That's a good one Skip. You're right! It could happen.

I agree with Nipper. The right rear brake/tail light is the problem. Since the filaments are tied together this backfeeds voltage to the dash lights and is why you see what you do with the dash lights.

The battery has a shorted cell and that is why the charger couldn't charge it. Don't use the battery at all as it could damage the new alternator. I'm sure when you get a replacement the voltage from the alternator will be fine unless damage has already been done to it. Running the alternator on a battery with a shorted cell will cause the alternator to put out full current output to try and get the battery voltage up to a normal voltage level, which it can't do. The continuous high charging current could kill some diodes.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback.

It sounds like the battery is either bad or it is discharged. I suggest you see if it will charge up before trying to run it again. The alternator most likely has a problem also and isn't charging the battery as it should.

If the blower will work on high speed then the resistor block is bad. If it doesn't work at all then the relay or switch may be at fault, or also the motor.

The problem is most likely just worn solenoid contacts. You can replace them for around 10 dollars doing the work yourself.

Thanks for the feedback. For the wiper motor problem I assume you have checked your fuses already. I would check for voltage getting to the motor next.

Both of the problems may be due to faulty connections to the devices. I suggest you check the connections visually and with a voltmeter to see if voltage is getting to those points.

Glad to hear that. Thanks for the update.