Cougar

Clearing the code for the knock sensor has nothing to do with your suggestions. The problem is either due to a bad sensor or the connection to it. You most likely will have to replace the sensor to clear the code.

Another satisfied USMB member. Yeah!

If the engine wasn't running when you took the code check then that may be the reason for codes 11, 13,and 23. If codes 11 and 13 were really active the engine wouldn't run. The code for the coolant sensor, 21, isn't for the temperature gauge in the dash. This is a different sensor for the ECU that has 2 wires going to it I believe. Make sure the connection to it is good and if you don't find a problem there then you need to replace the sensor. The ECU sees there is trouble with that circuit. A lot of times the sensor will go bad and make the ECU think that the engine never warms up so the ECU makes the engine run a rich fuel mixture. Check the knock sensor connection to make sure it is ok before replacing it. If you do replace it, be careful not to over torque the unit when tightening it. You can subsitute the knock sensor by replacing it with a resistor that is about 520k (520,000 an 1/2 watt)ohms in value. This should only be a temporary fix until you can get a replacement sensor if you do that. Hopefully the MAF code will go away also with the car running. If not then check the connections to it to make sure they are good. To reset the ECU you can disconnect the battery for about a half hour and I think that will clear any stored codes from the past. If all is good though the codes will clear by themselves after time.

The engine alone would almost be worth a couple grand. Are you looking into a future project car Skip?

Since the engine did run at first I doubt that new gas will make a difference. I recommend you check the return side of the injectors to see if the ECU is making the ground to turn them on. The injectors tie to the ECU in pairs and 1 and 2 tie to ECU pins 49 and 50. Injectors 3 and 4 tie to ECU pins 51 and 52. You should see the voltage pulsing at those pins if the ECU is working as it should be. As Gloyle previously mentioned, you should check the ECU for any error codes if you haven't done that already.

Check the green fusible link for a loose connection. The power for the door locks should be on fuse 19 so check for power there also if the trouble reappears.

You should see 12 volts on pin 2 of the dropping resistor (a red wire, but there are two of them so don't confuse them). This comes from the red fusible link. If you don't have voltage there then check the link for a loose connection.

With the mobile sound systems available today I have to wonder how many watts does it really take to listen to some good quaility audio while going down the road. Somehow the answer, 1800 doesn't ring up.

This very thought occured to me when you stated the pump didn't work in your first post. If the temperatures are below freezing, and you park outside rather than a heated garage, and haven't used freeze protected washer fluid, then the answer is pretty obvious. To clear up the ice problem I think you would have to park the car inside a well heated space overnight and let things thaw out. Then purge out the water and replace it with washer fluid. As far as the horn problem goes, have you checked out the horn relay a the cause for the problem? Edit: It has come to my attention that there may not be a horn relay for this model so I may be in error about that.

The warning lights are in the field circuit of the alternator. This allows the lights to be tested when the ignition is turned on and is also why some come on when there is trouble with the alternator. I too would suspect the replacement alternator is bad but if you can, have the place you purchased it from check it out before you replace it.

Since the pump is working have you checked the fuel filter to see if that is ok? If fuel is coming out of the filter then I would check the injector circuit next. The ECU makes a ground connection for those also. Be sure to check the fusible links and fuses for a problem there.

That is another possibilty and by checking to make sure that 12 volts is getting to the solenoid wire while the trouble is occurring would eliminate that as a possible cause. Your solution to the trouble does work but rather than adding a modification I would have looked for the bad connection in the ignition circuit that is the real cause of the trouble. It is still there and may get worse as time goes on but since it has been some time since you did this it may not be a problem. I just don't like to modify things like that.

I hope this tale of woe ends for you soon E4620. This is a car owner's nightmare. Hopefully with SOA involved, you will be back on the road shortly with a remanufactured engine.

The same site that Skip refered to states that the keyless entry was an option and it was part of a optional Rocky Mountain Edition package. Ebay is a great place to get keyfobs if you need to get one. You should be able to find one for 10 to 20 dollars I would guess.

Since you state that the new starter is acting the same as the old one then it would appear there is a problem with at least one of the main battery cables. As a test, you can try bypassing the suspected bad cable using a jumper cable. The battery also may have an intermittent problem and be the cause of this trouble, but that is remote. Glen

The problem with the fuel pump may be due to a problem within the ECU. The exact same thing you described happened to me once on my '88 GL-10. The problem turned out to be a bad transistor in the ECU for the pump circuit. To see if that is correct you should be able to listen and hear the pump run for a brief period when you turn the key to the RUN position. If you don't hear it try cranking the engine for a couple of seconds and then try again. If you still don't hear the pump then most likely the transistor is bad. You can verify that by checking the voltage at the wire connector under the rear seat that goes through the floor, to the pump. There should be a silver wire that ties to the ECU and that wire is tied to a controlled ground inside the ECU. If you have 12 volts on that wire when the pump should be on then the ground side of the circuit has a problem. You can fix this yourself if you are pretty good with a soldering iron. I think the transistor number on the board was Q701 if I remember correctly. If you would like me to fix it for you I would be glad to help you out but you may be able get a used one at a salvage yard also. EDIT: Here is a link that talks about what happened to another poster with the same problem. It includes some good pictures. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76466&page=3

Keith, Have you cleaned the battery connections and checked the main starter wire for internal corrosion to eliminate those possible trouble areas? The starter solenoid will still work if one of those things are a problem.

It would be good to see if there are any trouble codes stored as they may be a clue to the problem. You may be able to check the ignitor using the diode function of a meter and test it like a transistor.

I think that fuse is located above the dash panel fuses along with a few others. They are kind of hard to see.

Have you checked the fuel pump relay for a problem yet?

I agree with Ericem and The Dude, and I too thought of the engines being used in aircraft first thing when I read the OP post. They aren't perfect all the time but if you could look at the reliability statisics I think it will show how good they really are.

Have you checked for spark at the plugs yet?

I think the switch is near the shifter above the transmission.

You could disconnect the battery for about a half hour to reset the memory but if it were me I would want to see what the code is. If things are really ok the code will go away by itself. Autozone can read the codes for you if you want to do that.

Thanks for the update and thanks also to P73 for the fuel temp sensor explanation.