Cougar

It sounds like the solenoid contacts are worn out in the starter. You can replace those pretty easily with new ones.

The problem may be with the internal regulator. Before replacing it I would have the alternator tested to see if it can produce full output and check the AC component of the output voltage also to make sure it isn't excessive.

Since you asked for it I will give you my two cents. I have rebuilt them before and find it is time consuming along with expensive to replace things like the rectifier bridge. If a person wants to get into learning about how to rebuild one and see how they are designed then I would say go ahead and get into it. If someone just wants to get the alternator working then they should be able to get a rebuilt one that has a warranty for a reasonable price. If something goes wrong with the repaired one after it is installed then the time and money they have spent on it is gone. If the rebuilt unit has a problem then you can at least get another unit with the warranty. I have purchased parts at a store that specializes in automotive electrical systems. Places like NAPA may have them also.

You're very welcome. A Chiltons diagram should be fine. You could also check out Ebay and you may be able to find a factory manual for less than the price you would pay for a new manual. If you need help with the drawing let me know and if you can scan the info and get to me I would be glad to help you with it.

You stated that the lights go out when the electric choke is disconnected so that is the path the current is going through for some reason. There may be a blocking diode that has shorted causing this problem but a diagram is needed to see if that is really the case. I suggest you invest in a service manual to help you trace out the circuit.

If you need an emissions check then clipping the leads to the light may not solve your delemma. The test station may require that the light turn on during pretesting. To read the codes I think you need to tie the green connectors under the dash together. Here is a link that may help you also. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

The purge solenoid valve is usually mounted near the throttle body, on top of the engine. Its job is to purge out gas vapors from the charcoal canister back to the tank. It is a small device about 2 inches long that has electrical connections and hose connections tied to it. The plastic hose connections are very fragle and break very easily if they are torqued on. They also cost over 100 dollars for a new one (ask me how I know this :-\ ). The error code is set when the ECU doesn't see the correct current flowing in the solemoid circuit. The problem with these is usually caused by one of two things. One, the circuit that ties to it from the ECU is open or shorted. The other thing could be the solenoid coil is open. Very simple problems to fix. I would first check to see if voltage is getting to the solenoid. If so then check to see if the coil is open by measuring the resistance of the coil. The valve isn't on all the time so voltage isn't always there. There are two of these similair solenoids mounted close together and I think the other is for the EGR valve so don't confuse them.

To make sure the alternator isn't causing the trouble try disconnecting the wires that tie to the alternator and see if the trouble is there. If the lights are still on then the alternator isn't affecting them. Be careful if you do this, don't let any of the leads touch each other or anything else, especially the output lead. It is tied to the battery so it is hot. I don't have a manual that goes back that far in time.

Check for power getting to the coil and ignition module that you tested already in another vehicle. Do not test the high voltage leads for voltage even if the ignition isn't working.

I think a common problem for the ignition power was a faulty connector terminal that tied to the ignition switch. The connector was under the steering column. You would need to remove the cover under it to get at it. To check for power you need to use either a test light probe or a voltmeter. You need to verify that power is getting to the ignition using one of these testers at least. You can't just look at it and assume it is ok.

Have you checked for power getting to the ignition system? If not, do that.

My info shows power for the horns comes from fuse #5 on a white wire that turns to green before getting to the horns. You should see power on the green wire if that part of the circuit is ok. A grn/blk wire ties back to the horn switch which makes the ground when pushed.

The warning lights are in the field circuit of the alternator. They are designed this way so they are tested when you turn the key from the Off position to the Run position. I think the replacement alternator you got was defective so I recommend you try another one. There may have been a shorted blocking diode in it. The Stop lamp is a warning for a bad brake light usually. This light along with the others should go out when another alternator is intalled.

I'm not sure what the trick is to open the panel. You may need to push on it to release the latch. It shouldn't be difficult to open. My data shows that the power is run to the seat heaters through a relay that is tied to power though fuse SBF-5. This fuse is in the power distribution panel under the hood. Make sure that fuse is ok. That fuse ties to another fuse which may be above the other fuse panel mounted in the dash. A blue wire from SBF-5 ties to a yel/red wire through the second fuse. I suspect that this 20A fuse is blown.

Check the intake manifold gaskets for a leak there. The tach problem could be due to a a bad disty but before replacing it I would first check the alternator output and make sure noise from it isn't causing a problem. You can use a digital voltmeter in the AC volts function and check the voltage while the trouble is occurring. The AC voltage should be below 0.1 volt.

We may be able to help you further with this trouble but we really need to know all the codes that are being set. If you don't know what they are you can have them read out at a place like Autozone. Once we know what codes are being set we can offer more specific help. I also agree with Porcupine73 about trying to reset the ECU before going in for a IM test. You will most likely be shut down due to not enough monitors being set.

Perhaps you have a vacuum leak somewhere that is sucking in too much air.

Sorry for the delay on getting back but had to take care of some other things. Looking at my manual it appears the brake lights checker module isn't really a concern if the middle hatch light is also not working. Power should be going directly to the middle lights after going through the brake switch. Please verify that voltage is going through the brake switch on the green/black wire when the pedal is pressed. If it is then check another point under the hood near the right wheel well area. There should be two 21 pin connectors with 3 rows of 7 pins each. Look at the black connector for the green/black wire. Make sure voltage is getting there. If you have voltage there also then you need to check the wiring in the rear area.

Here is a link to a thread that discusses the module and a picture of it also. I will have access to my service data after tomorrow and should be able to help you further if need be. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77951&highlight=brake+lights

I think there is a module under the dash for the AC system. That is what I meant by controller.

Something may be hooked up incorrectly. You could try disconnecting things to see if that will shut the fan down. There may be a problem within the AC controller that is causing this also.

Good point, FiremanBob.

Good to hear you are making progress. Try pulling the fuse for the ignition system to see how the engine shuts down then.

It sounds to me there is a power connection problem in the power lead to those areas mentioned. The more current load through a bad connection, the less voltage gets to the load. Check the fuse connections for a problem. The problem may also be on the ground side of the circuit.

Maybe the cold start valve has a problem.