Cougar

Right on! Glad you got it fixed and running well. Another Soob owner is down the road and smile'n. Your welcome for the help and thanks for the feedback. Drive on Matt.

Well having a way to check the AC component is a good one to have when testing.

It sounds like the shop needs to improve their new fangled shiney digital tester.

Nipper, Have you checked the AC voltage at the battery while the engine is running at around 2,000 RPM? If there is more than one tenth of a volt then some of the diodes are not working.

Great. Another satisfied Soob member. Thanks for the feedback. Learned a little on this myself. It is nice to know the colors of the relay sockets. Is the RH relay socket on the other end of the row?

First let me say that since you already have a lengthy thread going on for this problem you shouldn't start another one for the same thing. This leads to needless running around on things already covered though you did state a lot of the things we previously covered. You could have just summarized in the last thread. In the previous thread I wanted you to measure the voltage of the 2-wire coolant temp sensor for the ECU. It looks like you got 8 volts across the wires. I'm not sure what the voltage should be but that may be low and if so that means there is a problem on those wires somewhere. I would think there should have been a code set if that was the case so maybe this is really okay. Manarius's idea of looking at the coolent temp through the ECU is a good one and would verify the circuit if the display shows normal temps.

You may have to do that.

You may have a bad fuel pump but it may be the voltage to the pump is low also. Instead of draining your battery to do a test you could run power directly to the pump and see if that makes the pump run better. If it doesn't then it sounds like the pump is bad.

The problem does sound like it is with the relay. I don't know where it is but you should be able to use you test light again to find it. First set it up so you can see the light then just start pulling out suspected relays one at a time and see if the light will still come on. When you find the correct one the light won't turn on.

I'm not sure the engine will run on the cleaner. I would get some starter fluid and check it. You may have something there about the ECU. I'm not really sure how you could determine when that happens. There may be some action with a valve or solenoid you could monitor with a meter and see when the ECU goes to closed loop.

And so the saga continues.

The fuel pump relay is just like any other relay. It is there to handle the switching of the power to the circuit. It takes a small amount of current to control a higher one. If there is a problem the relay can be turned off by the ECU. The ground side of the injectors is also controlled by the ECU. So things can be shut down that way also. I'm not really sure what side is turned off when there is a problem seen by the ECU. By checking voltages you can see what is working and what isn't.

One bad injector will not kill the engine. You did good in checking the coil resistances and it is a pretty good indicator that it will work. Listening to them while they are working is a good check also. The injectors are always controlled by the ECU whether if it is in open loop or closed loop mode. They are usually turned on by the ECU completing the ground side of the circuit. A good way to test the operation is use a LED test light called a NOID light. Using a analog meter to measure the voltage across the injector coil will work also, better than a digital meter. Questions are good and that is how we can learn.

That's good to know. Thanks Gloyale.

I think the relays are mounted in a bracket that is screwed to the firewall but I'm not positive of that.

Oh ya your right. Now that you mention it Gloyale I do recall that fact from my dusty memory banks, working on previous problems in that area. The data I was looking at showed the circuit starting at fuse 6 and I assumed it was just tied to direct power. Replacing the relay will most likely fix all the trouble. If there is still trouble with the dash lights then, as you mentioned, checking the dimmer control would be the next step. Anybody have some canned air I can use to blow out this dust in here.

One easy thing you can do to verify a bad ground is to make a long ground wire test jumper lead. Tie one end of the wire to a known good ground point and then move the other end to suspected bad ground points. If things then start working you know you are on the right track of a bad ground. I suspect you are correct about the flasher unit causing the trouble with the front lights. The reverse light acting as it does seems strange unless it isn't wired correctly.

If the relay is in the same spot as a DL look for it on a bracket above the ECU.

The combination switch provides switched power to the dash and taillights so as HYRYSC mentioned, look for the problem with them at the switch connections. My info shows if you jumper the red/blu power supply wire to the red, lights wire, you will bypass the switch connections to see if this is true. The dash lights may also have another problem through the dimmer switch as Gloyale mentioned. As he also stated the left headlight problem is most likely with the relay. Look for the set of 4 relays where he stated and the light relays are the middle two I believe. The others on the ends are for the blower and the rear defogger. When I first read your post I thought there may be a grounding problem in the dash area. But since the grounding is different for the running lights and dash lights I then saw the power connections in the combination switch were the common tie here. If the switch is really ok then check the voltage on the red/blu wire and make sure there isn't a problem upstream of it, back towards fuse 6.

Has the disty been checked to see if it is a tooth off?

As I previously suggested did you try spraying some started fluid into the intake after this trouble happens to see if that gets things going? If that works then you need to check to see if the injectors are working. Then check the fuel pressure and see if that is good.

This is good. You are doing the right things here.

It sounds like the fuel pump circuit is cutting out. Try checking the voltage on the pump leads to see if the pump is getting power when this trouble happens. The fuel pump relay could also be causing this trouble.

Yes indeedy. This sounds very much like a intermittent relay problem. You may be able to tap on it lighly to see if that will make it work or if you can find another like it in the car try swapping them. If you don't have a test light probe to test things like this you should get one. It could have saved you from spending money on needless parts replacement and the probes are cheap to purchase.

I know about cornfusion. It happens to me also.:-\