Cougar

You're welcome for the help.

Check voltage on both sides of fuse 5 again and verify that there is voltage there. If there is then don't worry about the fusible link because that is upsteam of the fuse. If there is voltage there then check the voltage at the horn on the white wire and if you have voltage there then see if you can make the horns work by grounding the grn/blk wire on the horns. If voltage isn't getting to the horns then check the connections to fuse 5 on the back side of the fuse panel to make sure they are ok.

My unit worked just fine and it came with a lifetime warranty. Sorry to hear you had problems with yours.

That is really cool stuff and one mean Sooby.

You are forgiven my son.

That is true but I still am thinking that the newer vehicles shared a more equal load on the front and back wheels during normal road conditions.

I am of the understanding that the older Loyales used the 90/10 split and the newer models used more like a 50/50 split. Is this wrong?

Well I was confused also. I thought we were talking about the the dash lights, not the "switch is on" lights. I wasn't paying close enough attention I guess. Now that I'm on the right page here I think that the post from GBHRPS brings up is a valid point. By swapping the bulbs you may have damaged the good one. These bulbs are pretty delicate. But if I am understanding correctly you are saying there are other switch bulbs not working also, that you didn't swap, correct? Lets first make sure that the light you put in as a replacement is ok still. You can use a ohmmeter to measure the bulb filament and see if it is good. You can check the power to the bulb by placing your meter across the white/black and yellow/black wires going to the fog light switch. The w/b wire should have power on it with reference to ground. One thing to note. It looks like the headlight switch needs to be in the low beam position for the fog switch light to be turned on.

The dash lights should have 12 volt power going to one side of them. Do you have voltage getting to them? The dimmer control module controls the return side of the light circuit and the dimmer control ties to the module. Check for power getting to the dimmer control also.

It does sound like you will need to replace the CAT(s) but before doing so you need to find out what damaged the orignials so the new ones don't get damaged also. I think the idea of too high of fuel pressure is a good one since other things haven't helped. It is interesting though that the numbers came way down when you replaced the PCV valve and fixed the timing and then they climbed up some on the third repair.

I think Nathan is on to something here about a bad pressure regulator. You may want to check the vacuum to it first and if that is ok then replace the regulator.

Ok. The cat is on the prowl and going after light problems. 211 and Grossgary, I need to know what vehicles you have. 211, I assume you have a '00 OBW. Grossgary, what do your parents have? Just as a start I would check the fuses for any blown ones.

If you can get a remanufactured Bosch unit I think you will be happy with it. Like another poster mentioned, since the alternator output is hot, disconnect the battery before working on the alternator.

The battery may be causing the alternator to work harder than it should. I would have the battery load tested to check the condition. You may need to replace it. If the battery is bad and you keep using it you may end up replacing more than the battery.

Ok, we are on the right track. In order to measure the voltage you will need to put your meter leads across both leads of the sensor. Preferably while it is attached to the sensor. I don't know what a normal voltage will be unfortunately. The main thing is the voltage will be different when the engine is cold or hot.

There should have been a voltage on that lead. After I reread your reply I realized you said the key was in the ACC position. I think the key will need to be in the RUN position, though the engine doesn't need to be running, to measure the voltage on the lead. The ACC position only turns on certain accessories. Another thing is you may be on the wrong sensor. I think the coolant temp sensor for the ECU has two wires going to the sensor. I may be thinking of a different model though. I guess one way of finding out if this is the correct sensor wire is to check the temperature gauge. If it changes when you disconnect it from the sensor then it is the wrong one. This may explain the trouble we have been having with it.

I would guess the occassional bucking may be due to the fuel pump. It could also be the plugwires causing this problem.

Glad you got your meter back. The moral of the story here is never let the wife handle the multimeter. This is off limits.

This statement is a little confusing to me. I wanted to ask you what wire are you talking about here and, is that a voltage reading you are giving there? If this is a voltage reading of the coolant sensor wire while the sensor is connected this isn't good.

Does the car only have one cooling fan? I was thinking there was two in it. I will be home on Wednesday where I can check my service data. Something is still missing here I guess since the fan doesn't turn on when the sensor is hot. It is good that the fan turned on in the diagnostic mode. I thought it might. I appears to me that something is still wrong with sensor side of the ECU circuit that is causing a problem.

Go to the Bat Automotive web site and then select the trouble codes for Subaru. Follow the help given there on the codes and location of the ECU.

It sounds like you are leaning towards a fuel problem which it very well could be. Have you checked the ignition to see if the plugs are getting spark while this trouble is occuring?

The large white wire, which is the alternator output wire does indeed go the large fusible link. The small wht/r wire should tie the warning light in the dash and the other black/wht wire is for the regulator circuit which I assume is internal to the alternator. The alternator can normally run very warm or be hot to the touch. The battery should be in good condition and fully charged. If the regulator wire has a problem and shows a voltage significantly lower than the battery voltage the alternator will put out a high charge thinking the battery is low. This will cause problems to the system if that is the case. I would resolder that wire connection in the picture and tape the connection. That needs to be isolated from ground. No offense...but that is a ugly splice connection. Make sure the fusible link connections are clean and tight since any resistance there will cause heat to build up.

It very well could be a gasket problem but it may be the radiator also. I would get a block check done to see if that is the case. If the temp rises real fast then I would suspect the gaskets. You may be able to get the car at a discounted price.

To check the resistance of the sensor all you have to do is place the meter probes across the wire contacts of the sensor. Never measure resistance with the power on to the device being tested. It is best to isolate (disconnect) the device from the rest of the circuit also so other devices in the circuit won't affect the reading. What we really need to know is what the resistance of the sensors are when they are around 205 degrees F. They should be close to the same value. I don't know what the values should be unfortunately. If you want to test the new sensor without installing it you could place it in a shallow pan of near boiling water. Keep the contacts dry if you do this. OB99W has a good idea to test the fans. This will test the ECU control side of the circuit at least for both fans. Since the main fan works ok by pulling the sensor connection I think it will also work ok if you do that procedure.