Cougar

Did you try the test I mentioned in my previous post? If not, follow the instructions there and let us know what you find.

That is interesting Porcupine73. I checked my info to see what it says about it and it says the box is a Stoplight Check Unit. The info says it is in the right rear side like you stated. After checking the wiring diagrams to see what they showed I could not find anything on the prints showing it. This module may be causing the trouble but I can't say for sure without seeing how it is tied in. Looking at the diagram for the rear lights it looks to me that the only way this problem can happen (unless some modification has been done to the wiring) is if the Park Light Switch on top of the steering column is shorted and the front marker lights are burned out, so they would be on also if they were good. To prove that I would try disconnecting the switch from the connector to it and see if the lights go out. If they do go out then replace the switch and the front lights. Before doing that first see if the front lights turn on when the Park switch is On, like the others mentioned. If the front lights still don't light up then I think my idea is on track. If the lights do come on then there is a different problem happening and the rear lights are getting power from somewhere and are split off the front lights somehow.

Well after comparing the 2.2 and 2.5 liter drawings it appears the wiring is the same for the fans at least. Since you can't locate the wires we need to get on at the ECU, lets try at the relay. The main fan relay is in the power panel and is at the front of 4 fan relays in a row. Can you locate that and tell me what the wire colors are going to the bottom side of that relay slot.

Let me make sure I have my facts right. The car you have is a '97 OBW, with a 2.5 liter engine?

The pins should be in the blue connector connected to the ECU which is shown on the left side of the picture. You may have to add the pin numbers of other connectors to get the right pin number or the numbers may be marked on the connectors. Look for the wire colors I listed earlier.

You should be able to stick a probe tip or wire end in the connector while it is still connected to the ECU. Then touch the other end to ground. If the fan works you know that part of the circuit is ok. I wouldn't damage the insulation of the wire if you can help it.

You're welcome for the tip. I still use the manuals to help others here on the site with questions but I will keep you in mind if I do decide to sell them. If you have questions let me know. Keep checking Ebay for manuals as you will most likely come across a set in time. Mine cost me about 100 dollars new. It is a set of 4 manuals. You may be able to find a set for around 30 dollars if you keep watching. I think you can set a alert also if you want to.

The pins are on the ECU, which should be under the right side of the dash if my info is correct.

Hope the car works well for you. At on point in time I had two of those at once that were even the same color. I still have the FSM manuals for the car. Check the intake manifold gaskets for leaks there.

Looking at my data it shows that the relays are controlled by grounding the relay coils through the ECU. If I remember correctly the ECU depends on the coolant temp sensor to show when to turn the fans on. They should have turned on with the AC I think. To see if the fan circuits are ok you could try grounding pins 73 (grn/red) and then 74 (red/blu) on the ECU to see if the fans work then. If that checks out then you may want to check the coolant sensor next to see if that is working as it should be. The ECU may also have a internal problem causing this trouble.

1. I would guess that the plug will work fine though I can't say that for sure. I am assuming there is a standard pinout for the plug so it should match. 2. If you still have the orignial radio plug in place I strongly suggest you get the adapter harness to adapt your new player. It makes the install much better and easier and is money well spent. 3. To fix the engine miss problem try replacing the plugwire first. Then the plug also, if that doesn't work.

You aren't going to hurt anything by doing that. Having some pressure in the crankcase is normal. Just get a new cap and clean up any oil spots.

The problem may be due to the window having too much drag on it at a certain position. Does the problem occur only at a certain point of the travel? To see if the controller is the problem you could try bypassing it and see if it works better then.

It could be the control unit but check the wiring to the dimmer control also. After looking at my info it appears that the dash lights are not grounded on one side as most lights are. A wht/yel and yel/blu wire run to the lights from the control unit. Another point to check is the relay for the tail and dash illumination. This may be the real culprit and I would suspect that first. You may be able to prove by tapping lightly on the relay while the trouble is occuring. If the dash light work then, you know what to do.

Good deal. Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for the update.

Since the O2 sensor code is a circuit problem you need to check the wiring to the sensor to see what is causing the problem. The other problem may clear after the circuit is fixed to the first sensor.

You're welcome Tony. Let us know what you find out about the fuel situation.

I talked with Tony on the phone and told him to check the connector that is in between the ignition relay and the ignition coil that provides 12 volts to the coil. He said he may have to bypass the wire in the connector once he figures out which of the two wires on the relay he needs to tie to. The original wire may be hard to get to after the mod.

Please follow my last post and check the yellow/red wire for power.

Ok good, on the ignition power being ON. There should be 2 yellow/red wires going to the ignition relay. One of them goes through a connector on pin 8 and then goes to the coil. You need to check the connector next.

Sorry for the delay here, I have been looking at my data. I wouldn't worry about the starter circuit since I assume the engine is cranking ok. If I remember correctly I think you were not seeing voltage to the coils. You should have 12 volts on the yellow/red wire going to the coil with the ignition ON. Do you have that? If not then you need to check the ignition relay where it comes from.

I need to know what wire harness you are using for this mod. For what year and model.

The disty position may be a tooth off.

You're welcome for the help on this T.J.. Glad to hear you got it going without too much trouble. Thanks for the kudos on this. Some time ago I purchased some wheels for my Outback from Richie. He was great to deal with. If you do have trouble later on and need his help it is good to have him nearby. Another happy Soob owner back on the road. Drive on, Glen

I think the problem is the new horns only have one terminal going to them which needs to be tied to a switched power wire. The other lead of the new horn is grounded to the metal of the horn and frame of the car. Subaru uses a switched ground lead for the horn connection instead of a switched hot lead so the return wire of the horn needs to be isolated from ground or change the way power is delivered to the horn using a relay. If you want to use these horns you are going to need a relay in the circuit to switch the power to them. Let the original two wire connector operate a relay with the power lead going to the coil and switched contact of the relay. The other original lead (switched ground) will go to the other side of the relay coil.