Cougar

The ECU provides the ground internally for the circuit. Check the voltage at the ECU pin and if it is more than .5 volts the problem is inside the ECU.

Nipper, My info says the illumination control module is behind the dash, left of the column.

You are correct about the source wire having a problem. My info shows a wht/blu wire going to pin 72 on the ECU ties to the valve. EDIT I just read your second post. Looking at my info again it appears we are looking at the circuit backwards. The ECU provides the ground side of the circuit, not the power. The power comes from the main relay, which is behind the left side of the dash, on a yel/red wire. Power to the relay comes from SBF-2 on a red wire to the relay. The yel/red wire also goes to a lot of other places.

Are you saying the input wire is staying at 12 volts when the plug is connected? Just the other two wires are dropping to zero. If this is so then this module is more than a simple switch. EDIT After looking at the drawing again it looks to me that the switch is working as it should be but since there isn't enough details on the modules I can't tell for sure. One thing obvious on pin 3 is, it goes to the fan switch, which ties to ground. So we know that is ok. The AC relay coil gets power from fuse 15 through the evaporation/thermo switch. You should have power from the fuse on pin 3 there. Have you checked that?

Thanks for the update Swiftt. Glad you fixed it.

I think you are in the right place. My info shows there is 3 wires going to the AC mode control box. There are 2 others for the light in it. The switch is fed 12 volts and it looks to me that the other two contacts may be something like a high/low setting. The power input is a red/blk wire on pin 2. The other two contacts should be tieing to that lead I think so if you don't have 12 volts there then the switch is bad.

Sorry to hear about leak. It isn't real bad but it should be fixed.

Did you check the voltage at the fuse location I gave you while under load? Maybe the power is bad from that point.

Very good point Frag.

I am still wondering about those voltage readings. My info for a Legacy shows the pin for #2 injector goes to pin 13 of the ECU. Number 1 injector goes to pin 4 of the ECU. If you don't mind, would you check the voltage on those pins to ground and see if that is the same? If only some of the voltage is dropping across the injector it could cause a problem in opening. The Noid light may not tell you the whole story here.

I agree. The ECU is the last item you want to call bad and wasn't saying it was bad. In my previous posts I wanted the testing done at the pins on the ECU. This way you will know which direction to look for the trouble. I didn't explain that in my directions for testing very well.

You should also be able to see it with your meter, like you did previously. Check the voltage to ground on one of the good injector return wires and then compare it with the bad one. If the the voltage is higher on the bad one then the problem is internal to the ECU.

Larry, My info shows the power going to the relay coil on a brown/red wire from a 10A fuse mounted in the AC relay holder.

Going by the good readings it sounds like you are measuring the voltage on the ECU side of the circuit and to ground. The ECU makes the ground for injector circuit so if you are seeing 5 volts there, then there is either a problem with the external connection to the ECU or the ECU has a internal problem for that injector. Edit: You posted while I was typing my reply. You have a grounding problem to the ECU like I stated above.

I agree with DaveT, this is a air control problem and not electrical. The air vent may be stuck also.

Thanks for catching that about the ignition guys. I wasn't thinking about that. Perhaps the best thing to do is disconnect the wiring to the coil packs. This way there is no danger of allowing the high voltage to buildup more than it should since the plugs will be disconnected.

When testing it is best to leave all the plugs in except the one you are working on, unless you want to see if there is a leak between the cylinders. We aren't concerned about that though. By cranking the engine a few seconds you should top out the gauge for a reading. I think you should see somewhere around 165-185 lbs normally but I'm just guessing. All cylinders should be within 10 lbs of each other if things are good.

I think that helps show how well those systems were designed.

Doing a compession check will tell you if we are are the right track or not. If the timing is off the compression will be lower than normal.

I thought about a loose belt but then figured you wouldn't let that happen.

It could be a belt tensioner came loose and allowed the belt to slip. I am just speculating here. The fact that the engine was running so well and then turns bad makes me think this.

My guess on this trouble is the cam timing is off, at least on one side. It seems it would be kind of hard to do that though so I may be wrong.

There should be a direct connection between the aternator output lead and the positive battery terminal. To check if it is ok you should have no more than around a 0.1 volt difference between those points when the engine is running.

The voltages at the RPMs you stated are low and probably means some of the diodes in the alternator are damaged. When the engine is running around 1,200 RPM you should see around 13 volts at the battery.

There may be a problem with the alternator output lead which runs to the battery.