Cougar

To verify it is a fuel problem you could try using some starter fluid sprayed into the intake to see if that helps fire the engine.

I would try some new plugwires to see it that will stop the missing problem.

I think it is a purge control solenoid. The other one may have to do with the intake area possibly. Both of them are there for environmental reasons. I learned about them by doing the same thing you did. You have to be so careful when working around those valves. I ended up buying a new one for around $113 dollars. That was a discounted price too. There are other solenoid valves like from Nisson that will work and are a lot less money for a new one. You just need to change the wire connector.

Hopefully by just making an adjustment the switch will work. It should also start by moving the shifter in the neutral position. I think the switch is in the area near the shifter or it may be under the car near that same area. It may also be on the side of the tranny

I would guess that the blinking is just to let you know that the alarm has been set but something in the alarm system has failed and it won't stop the flashing.

What size fuses are you using to run the fans? Maybe they are the wrong size. It is stange that both fans are blowing the fuse. If the RPMs of the motors are being slowed down somehow that will cause extra current to flow in the fan circuit. Nipper: If there was a direct short in the motor or to it then the fan wouldn't run and the fuse would blow instantly. The voltage across a short is zero.

If the fuel pump is working and you have spark then perhaps the injectors are not working. Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if that will fire the engine?

Be aware that some meters will still read the DC component when in the AC mode. To see if your meter does that all you need to do is measure a battery when the meter is in the AC mode. If you get a reading close to the battery voltage then you need subtract the battery voltage from the AC reading or place a capacitor in series with the probes to block the DC. A charger will have a lot of DC ripple since there usually is no real filtering of the rectified AC voltage, especially if it isn't connected to a battery. That is different from true AC voltage which a battery cannot tolerate.

First off be sure to clean the battery connections even if they look ok. Then charge the battery for at least 4 hours using the charger. The battery needs more charging than you gave it and you shouldn't make the alternator do that. If the battery is more than four years old you should really think about changing it out or at least get a load test done on it. To see if the alternator has some bad diodes you can measure the AC voltage across the battery while the engine is running around 2,000 RPM. You shouldn't see more than around 0.25 volts AC if things are ok. It sounds like you found the fusible links ok and hopefully the connections were tight and not burned on the ends. Another place to check on this kind of trouble is in the steering column. The connector for the ignition switch may have a bad connection.

Keep boring us OB99W. This is good info even if it is a refresher. Thanks!

Usually just cleaning the sender wiper contacts will take care of the problem with the sender unit. Some memebers have put Techron in the tank and cleaning action of it that got things working again.

I agree with Daeron about checking the fusible link connections. Also check the main ground connections near the battery along with cleaning the battery connections.

One other thought is to use some thin gauge aluminum sheeting to make a box cover with. A sheet metal shop could make the bends for you. Then paint it when it is done.

That is great news. This one was a struggle but we have success.

The back of the plugs should be marked with the numbers I believe. I think the pins providing the power to the ECU are more important to look at than the grounding pins for the problem you are having now.

Very good advice Ferret.

The ECU should work ok even if it isn't bolted down. Going from what you now say it looks like you are not getting 12 volts from the ECU to the blk/grn wire. Is that correct? Since you tied 12 volts to the wire and it worked then it appears the ECU is bad or there is a problem with the power suppling the 12 volts to the ECU. Check all the fuses and be sure the horn works which is supplied power through fuse #5. There are several pins on the ECU that provide 12 volts to it. If you need the pin numbers I will try to get those for you. In regards to my request to measure the CAS AC voltage what I was requesting is taking a voltage reading with everthing connected normally and while cranking the engine. The CAS sensor in the disty is a photo diode system and must have power provided to it in order for it to work. I think a normal working output should have between 4 to 5 volts of AC voltage on it. The pulses generated in the disty are then looked at by the ECU to determine the proper firing of the ignition as most of you know already. I was hoping that by measuring a good system it would be of help in the future as a good reference, to confirm that a good signal is getting to the ECU.

Glad to hear that. There's another one on the road.

It sounds like some honest troubleshooting is now needed instead of just module replacement on order to fix this problem. I would first check for a problem on the control wires between the adjustment control and the module. If you need some wiring info on this I may be able to get some for you.

At what point is fuel getting to now. Didn't you have a mixed up fuel line that got repositioned? The injector wires should have a connector on them to attach the wires to the injector contacts. Did you pull them out of the connector?

The reason I wanted to do this test is to try and verify that there is a valid signal on the line. Since we don't have a O-scope to really see what is going on the next best thing is a meter set to measure AC. The pulse rate is slow enough that most meters shouldn't have any trouble measuring the pulse repetition rate of the signal. We now have two members that are having trouble in this area. One is seeing around 4.3 v AC and the other is seeing less than .2 v AC. Both have CAS errors. I'm not sure what to think about that unless there is something else going on with the ECU or, your thinking about mixing the SPFI and MPFI distys is a problem. You may be right on that. If we can at least verify that there should be some AC signal on the CAS output line on a working engine it would at least help determine there is a signal getting to the ECU.

Thanks for making the AC tests Subrat84. From your readings it does look like your meter blocks DC in the AC mode and that is good. The meter will show something at first because when you first touch the probes to DC power it charges a capacitor in the meter and this looks like AC to the meter. When the cap is fully charged the reading shows zero volts. Now on to the real problem at hand. Since the reading you took showed basically no AC voltage it looks to me that the CAS output is bad. Unless we are doing something wrong that I am missing here I think you need a new CAS. I will state though that this AC test is something that I haven't done before except with one other member and his results showed 4.3 volts AC on the output. This is more what I would expect to see with this test. The trouble is though that his engine doesn't run either. This leaves me a little baffeled . It would be better to do this check using a scope but not many have one of those handy. I'm pretty confident of this test though. I am trying to have Daeron verify this testing since he has a running SPFI car.

The gasket may be a dealer only item.

Good photo Singlecoil. You can see how the heat from the bad contact connection in the relay transfered from the relay connections to the connector.

I wouldn't reverse the wires. They should be ok unless they have been moved around at another time. The black/white wire is the one that carries the CAS signal I believe. Could you do another test on that wire? I would like to know what the AC voltage is on that wire while cranking the engine. If you do this test then before making the measurement place your meter in the AC voltage mode and then measure the battery voltage. Hopefully your meter will block the DC component when measuring AC so the reading should decay down to zero after contact.