Cougar

Good testing. Now we know for sure the CAS is doing its' job. If you want to verify that the pulses are also getting to the pin on the ECU you could do that but really you have done that already. The next thing to do is verify that the wire lead inside the ECU is making good contact to the circuit board inside and to the outside pin. If that is okay then you need to replace the ECU.

I was refering to the crank sensor in the disty as the pickup.

You may have damaged the ECU using the high current charger. Voltage spikes from the charger may have damaged it. It sounds to me that the ECU is shutting the injectors and the fuel pump off because it isn't seeing ignition pulses from the disty. Though the ignition is working obviously. This should cause a error code but I'm not sure if the ECU light is working as it should be. Does the light turn on when you turn on the ignition switch?

Glad you got the blower working as it should. For the AC problem you may want to have a shop check it out for leaks. You may also have to convert the system to the newer refrigerant.

I would just get a pickup from a parts store and repair the disty. A new coil shouldn't be too bad either. There are also folks selling parts in the parts for sale area.

Have you tried spaying some starter fluid into the intake to see if the engine will fire then?

I think the disty is okay going from the voltage readings you gave earlier. I think you could build a little detector using a LED and resistor to prove pulses are getting to the ECU. If you are interested in trying it just purchase a small LED and a 1,000 ohm half watt resistor from a electronic store. Solder the resistor to one lead of the LED. Then touch one end to ground and the other side to the white wire connection. LEDs are polarity sensitive and the longer lead of the LED needs to be tied to the positive side of the circuit, the white wire. If the light doesn't work try it the other way. It won't hurt anything. I have never tried this myself but it won't hurt anything to try this. It is really a NOID light and can be used to see if the injectors are working if ever needed. EDIT Now that I think about the resistor size more I think you should make that a 150 ohm resistor. The other would be too large of resistance for the voltage supplied so it wouldn't turn on.

The rich mixture code may be due to a bad plug so changing them out is a good idea. The misfire code may be due to the wrong type of fuel or a timing issue.

The code is for both the sensor and the circuit to it. I recommend you check the wire connection between the sensor and the ECU and see if it ohms out okay.

The fact that the voltage changes while cranking the engine compared to just the ignition ON is a good sign to me. I think that 4.3 volts is the correct level. It sounds like the CAS is doing its' job. Looking at the line with a oscilloscope would be the best thing but not a lot of people have access to one of those. One other thing can be used and that is a frequency counter. Some meters have that function but they are usually the more expensive models. The problem now appears to me to be with the ECU. I can't remember if you changed that already or not. One thing you could check inside the ECU is to make sure that the pin that ties to the white wire is making good connection to the board inside the case.

It sounds like the white signal wire is working but it would be good to verify it. Hopefully your meter will pick up the pulses while cranking the engine. Set the meter to read AC volts and place your probes across the white wire and ground. Then while cranking the engine see what the meter reads. Hopefully you will see something slightly less that 5 volts while cranking and close to zero with just the ignition on. If you confirm those things are good then it seems to me the next thing to replace is the ECU.

Thanks for the correction on that Naru. You are right. Unless current is flowing through the coil then the voltage will be the same on each side. Ohm's Law never fails. The best thing to do is measure the voltage on each side of the coil with reference to ground.

The problem does sound like it is a timing problem. Check the compression and if that is ok I would make sure the timing mark positions are ok.

Using your voltmeter and with the ignition ON, measure the voltage across the plus and minus side of the coil. If you have more than a few volts there then the coil is open and it needs to be replaced.

Check to see if voltage is getting to both sides of the coil using a voltmeter and with the ignition switch set to the RUN position. If you have voltage getting to both sides of the coil then it is ok and something else is causing the trouble. Once you get the car running then check the voltage at the battery with the engine running at around 2,000 RPM. If the voltage exceeds more than 15.25 volts the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad and you need to replace the alternator.

The LED for checking the codes is in the ECU. There is a hole in the side to view it.

You are right. A dirty battery lead isn't a good thing but it won't cause the problems you described in the original post. Hope the problem doesn't come back.

Skip, I think there was mention of the bracket being cleaned in a earlier post. possibly in the other thread. There are now two threads open for this problem. One should be locked. As for the ignition problem here is what I suggest you do: First check for any error codes. If you don't have a error code for the CAS in the disty then it would appear that it is ok and the trouble may be with the ignition amp.

First check for any error codes. If you don't have a error code for the CAS in the disty then it would appear that it is ok and the trouble may be with the ignition amp.

Pin 47 is a switched transistor circuit that is controlled by the ECU. When the fuel pump is supposed to turn on then the output transistor is turned on and pin 47 ties to ground, turning on the pump. When the circuit is off then the output will go high and you will see a voltage on pin 47 and the pump will turn off. One thing to note. If the ECU doesn't see firing pulses from the ignition system it will keep the pump circuit turned off. The plugs must be firing for the pump to work. The voltage will be high at pin 47 if the ignition system isn't working.

If pin 47 is the connection for providing a ground to the pump then there could be a problem internally with the ECU. It provides the ground by using a switched transistor. If there is a problem with that circuit then you could see voltage there. I have repaired a few ECUs with this very problem in the past.

Spoken like a true Soob owner. For getting a good deal on a factory manual do a search on Ebay for "Subaru service". They have factory manuals for sale. If you don't see anything right now keep checking and you will get one. A factory set of manuals are the best to get. There may be a four manual set for a commplete set to cover your model year. A used set may run between $25 to $50 dollars. Some of the best money you can invest in your car.

I recommend you spray some starter fluid into the intake to see if that will make the engine fire. If it tries to run then you know you have a fuel problem. From the sounds of things after reading the previous posts it looks to me that the injector is not getting the ground signal needed to open the injector. You are getting power to the injector but the contact to ground, to complete the circuit, is made through the ECU.

This is a sad sight to see. An arrest should be made for Soob abuse.

I was reading the posts here fellas and it looks to me that pin 47 is the return (ground side) for the fuel pump. Is that correct? If this is so and the ignition system is working as it should be, then the problem may be in the ECU. The 12 volts on the output of pin 47 means the transistor switch inside the ECU is not turning on to allow the ground connection to the pump lead. Unfortunately I do not have any service data right now to check this out and I may be thinking wrongly on this so I will butt out now.