Cougar

Have you tried using some starter fluid to help get it going? If that doesn't work then there may be a timing problem.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback and you're welcome for the help.

Welcome to the forum Mike. The solenoid is behind the throttle body on top of the engine if it is like my '88 was. It is about 1 inch square and has a 2 pin connector. Be careful of the vacuum hos connections to it as they are very easy to break. Do not torque the connections. There may be another similar looking solenoid near it for the EGR valve.

My info says the relay is behind the left side of the dash. Look for a connector with 4 contacts for the relay. Pin 1 is yellow. Pin 2 is Lt green-blk. Pin 3 is Yel-grn. Pin 4 is Blk-red and goes to the pump. Pin 2 supplies the power from #2 fusible link and switches to pin 4, so if you jumper the contacts as a test, the pump should run.

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the update.

After thinking about this I seem to recall another incident like this with a O2 sensor. The problem turned out to be with the ECU if I remember correctly. Since you can get a spare one for $25 dollars it is cheaper than a new sensor. You may be able to check the sensor using your ohmmeter across the sensor and heating the sensor with a torch.

First make sure that the alternator warning light in the dash turns on with the ignition switch turned to ON. This is important because the current through the lamp is used to excite the alternator field. This may be on a white/red wire to the alternator. Check the other wires on the alternator also using a voltmeter. They should be near the battery voltage. If those things are ok and the lead between the alternator output and the positive battery post is good then the alternator is at fault. Clean the battery posts also.

One thing you can do to see if the O2 sensor changes is disconnect one of the plug wires. The rich unburned fuel mixture should make the sensor show a rich condition, a voltage greater than .5 volts. If the sensor voltage doesn't change then, I would say there is either a ECU problem or the sensor may be bad. I would suspect the sensor first as the trouble.

To see if you have the correct lead you can use your ohmmeter to check it. One trick you can do is disconnect the ECU end and then short the sensor end to ground using a jumper. Then check the ECU connector end using your meter with the probe leads between the pin and ground. You should see a short if you have the correct wire and there isn't any problem with the wire connection to the sensor.

The ECU can only tell if the solenoid isn't working by checking it electrically so if you left the device hooked up then it won't throw a code. A intake vacuum leak after the MAF sensor will cause a lean condition that the O2 sensor could see if it is working correctly.

Another reason why factory manuals are prefered over other sources though, they aren't perfect either. They can have mistakes also. The sensor in the back is the one you really want for the ECU.

Thanks for the notice Gloyal. When I looked up the info I was thinking of a '87 MPFI engine. Though I thought that they first came out out in '88, but since Daeron had a GL-10 is was thinking MPFI, not SPFI.

That is a good thing to know. Thanks Mcmillon.

I doubt that the problem with the tranny is causing the engine trouble. There is a product on the market called Auto-RX that may help with getting rid of the tranny problem. It sounds like something is sticking and preventing the shift. Earlier you stated there was a problem with the O2 sensor working. Did you get that fixed yet? Since you replaced the sensor then the problem would seem to be with the circuit wiring to the sensor. My info shows that the sensor wire goes to pin 48 of the ECU.

Some CDs are better than others but they are pretty cheap so you won't go too wrong on things if you get something you don't care for. I prefer the regular factory manuals though printing out a page is nice when you want one. Without more info on the connector I can't help you on that.

The temperature sensor you checked is for the temperature gauge. The sensor for the ECU has two pins like the manual shows. I think it is near the thermostat housing or towards the rear left side of the engine as you face it from the front of the car.

In your first post on this trouble you stated the CTS was checked. Did you make sure the sensor was responding properly to the temperature changes of the coolant?

I can totally understand that Nipper. If you come, bring your fishing pole with you.

If you make it to Alaska Nipper try to check in with the northern members here.

Check the temperature sensor for the ECU and see if is working as it should be.

The small difference in readings is not really a concern. The fact that you have continuity about the same on both sides is good. This means the valve is ok electrically at least. You should now test it using 12 volts on each side, one at a time, to see if it is closing and opening as it should be, using pin 2 as the common lead tied to +12 volts. If it isn't then you may need to clean it out so it can work correctly. My data shows that pin 1 of the solenoid goes to pin 14 of the ECU and pin 3 goes to pin 13 on the ECU. Pin 2 ties to power.

The cooling fan should turn on only when the coolant temperature starts to approach the boiling point. The AC fan should turn on when the AC or the defrost is used.

I assume all three wires that are tied to the connector tie to the solenoid also. If that is correct and there isn't any break in the external wire connections then the solenoid is broken internally.

I seem to recall previous posts on this sort of thing. Other folks reporting this same kind of trouble found out they had a over sensitive knock sensor that was causing the trouble. This may or may not be your trouble but something to keep in mind if nothing else seems to correct the problem.

I checked my data on this and it looks like you should have about 10 ohms each between 1 an 2 and 2 an 3. With 12 volts across 1 and 2 the solenoid should be fully open and with 12 volts between 2 and 3 it should be fully closed. Time for a new solenoid, the coil is open between pins 1 and 2.