Cougar

Will any of these work? http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1988&make=SU&model=LOY-4WDT-001&category=All&part=Distributor%20Cap&dp=false

To see if the injector coils are open, remove the connector to the injector and measure the resistance between the contacts to the injector. It should be a few ohms. If that is ok the problem may be in the wiring to the ECU or external resistors if you have them. The problem may be inside the ECU also.

You shouldn't need to reset the ECU to eliminate the CTS code. If the unit is working as it should the code will go away. To reset the ECU you can just disconnect power to it for about 20 to 30 minutes. I don't recommend it though.

Both type TPS sensors absolutely exsist, and the fact that your sensor is showing near 5 volts at idle means you have one. You should try moving the adjustment back to where it was as close as you can. Try cleaning the wiper of the sensor if you can to see if you can salvage it. The sensor circuits need to be checked with a meter while they are working to see if things are working as they should be. Just replacing a sensor doesn't mean it has to work. The whole circuit needs to be checked. As for the CAS sensor itself, I don't think you can check it out just using a ohmmeter, but you can make sure that the circuit is making connection to it.

Not much more I can add to this but welcome to the forum Mark.

It sounds like you have the reverse type TPS where the voltage is close to 5 volts while the throttle is closed and .5 volts at WOT. Your manual specs appear to be for a different model.

It could generate a code but it would be from the O2 sensor or CAT.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback.

You should get a block check done to check for any emissions in the coolant. If it is a problem it is best to repair it ASAP.

Once you find the solenoid I suggest you check the circuit first, using a voltmeter, before doing anything to the solenoid. There should be 12 volts to the solenoid when it is supposed to be working. You can check the coil winding resistance also with a ohmmeter to see if it is ok. If the coil is open, the solenoid is bad. For the code 12 problem I think the switch being refered to is the ignition switch, not the starter solenoid.

Dirty battery connections strike another one. Glad you found the problem and thanks for the feedback.

You should read the information on the link that OB99W provided. The info states that the TPS sensor is mounted on the throttle body and shows a drawing of what it looks like. One thing I think that needs to be looked at before you go much further is the spark plug condition. You can tell a lot just by checking the plugs out. Perhaps one cylinder is not working as it should be. Another thing I think that needs to be checked is the coolant temp sensor for the ECU. The voltage should be checked across it to see how it is really responding to the engine temperature.

You're welcome for the help. Hope you find the trouble.

It appears that the memory power to the clock is being interrupted somehow. My manual for a '88 shows that memory power for the clock and the radio come from fuse #5. The wire color to the units is green. If the radio memory is ok then it would seem the fuse connection is alright at least. The problem may be at the connection for the clock or, possibly in the clock. I have heard of a common problem with the resistors becoming unsoldered in the clock. By just resoldering them the problem is cleared.

Good suggestion about using a vacuum gauge, and also the link for the TPS, OB99W. You always have informative and helpful posts.

TPS is short for throttle position sensor.

Before you replace the CAT I would verify it is bad since thay are not cheap to replace. The rich fuel mixture could be due to a bad TPS, or MAF. Have those sensors been checked to see if they are working correctly? I see you replaced the air filter but make sure there isn't something wrong with the airflow. A lack of air can cause a rich conditon.

That's a great story Unverviking. It would be nice to know what dealership this is. They would love to have this kind of story to be repeated about their service. That's almost better than advertising.

Welcome to the forum here 82 Suby. Hope you like it here. There some very savy Suby owners here that can help you with just about anything on your car. For the problem with the cruise control make sure the cruise disconnect switches on the brake pedal and, clutch pedal if you have one, are adjusted properly. The CC on my '83 was out for a long time until I found out it was just due to the brake pedal not pushing the switch in enough to open it (I think it opens the switch, it may close it). The CC thought the brake was always on. A simple fix for that one at least. Hopefully you find the same thing on yours.

Jerry, I sounds like you have proved that the problem is on the power lead between the protected side of the fuse and the center lead of the light. You have 12 volts on each side of the fuse and something much less on the center lead of the light. Make sure the connections are ok on the back side of fuse #8 which should go to the passenger side light. To verify it you can pull the fuse to see if the light goes out. You can also verify, if you want to, that by placing a 12 volt jumper lead to the center lead of the light will make it work correctly. Proving the red feed wire has a problem. My info doesn't show any connector between the fuse and the light so there shouldn't be any possible trouble spot unless the wire itself is damaged. Perhaps the insulation got damaged and internal corrosion has eaten way the wire. If the wire is ok then the only place trouble can be is at the fuse connection or at the light connection of the red wire (provided my info is correct). Something to note. When checking the voltage at the light switch remember, the switch turns on the lights by making a ground connection. So there shouldn'd be any voltage at the switch connection, if the switch is working correctly and the lights are on, since the switch connection is at ground potential. The relays and fuses are on the hot side of the circuit and the light switch is on the ground side. Another important note: Hopefully I made it clear in my previous posts that all the tests I gave instructions for were to be done while the lights were on. If the lights were off while testing, then the voltage test at the fuses needs to be done again with the lights on. If the voltage is still ok there then the red wire still needs to be checked.

Daeron, Check out my reply in post #32 of this thread.

You may be able to inspect the injector yourself. Let the car sit overnight and then pull the injector out to inspect it. If it is wet with fuel then it may be the problem.

The indicated temperature on the gauge may say one thing but I seriously doubt it is correct. My guess is the real temperature of the coolant is a lot cooler than indicated by the gauge. At least from a cold start. The only way I could see the temperature getting that hot, so fast, is if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. The injector may be leaking through the center pin, not the O-ring gaskets. After thinking on this some more I wonder if you are loosing coolant. If so, maybe you do have a headgasket leak.

It sounds like the injector may be leaking intermittently and gas flooding the engine, making it hard to start.

I would check out the injector for this problem. It may be leaking. As far as the temperature gauge goes it sounds like either the sensor is not working as it should be or the thermostat is bad. The engine can't heat up as fast as 1 minute from a cold start.