Cougar

The info I have shows the sender wire going back to the gauge is blk/yel and the low level warning light lead is wht/yel.

You definitely have a bad alternator and it is good the battery light came on to indicate that. That light circuit needs to work in order for the alternator to work. The current through the warning light supplies power to the exciter of the alternator. As was also mentioned you should recharge the battery using a battery charger before installing the alternator. Be careful of the main lead to the alternator and don't let it touch anything if the battery is connected. That lead is hot to the battery.

And so ends the story of another happy Soob owner. Good night everyone.

One of the connection pins should tie to the wiper contact of the variable resistor and another pin should tie to the end of the resistor. By placing the meter probes on those contacts and moving the throttle position arm you should see the resistance change on the meter. Sometimes bad spots can happen on the resistor and the sensor should be replaced.

I suggest you verify that you are getting full voltage input to the ignition system while the trouble is happening. You also stated you hear a gurgling sound in the fuel line which suggests air is getting into the fuel system somehow.

That's a pretty good price SK2H. I found out how easy these solenoids will break after time. The dealer charged me well over 100 dollars for a replacement solenoid.

Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake when this problem happens to see if the engine starts up quickly then? I am wondering if the voltage getting to the ignition system is low and if so the spark may be weak making the engine harder to start when it is cold.

The items you mention having trouble are supplied power through the ACC contacts of the ignition switch. That would be my top suspect for this problem especially since you say cycling the ignition switch clears the problem. You should be able to monitor the voltage at the fuses in the dash and compare that to the input lead to the ignition switch to verify this. The input wire to the switch might be white/black possibly.

Well, it sounds like you may have a stuck valve on #2.

Check the fusible links for a loose connection. They are inside the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.

I suggest you get a manual in case something else happens later on so will have it on hand if that time comes. If you had the manual for this case you most likely would have had the problem pinned down in 2 hours. The CDs sell for less than 20 dollars. One hour of your time is worth more than that.

Is it possible that the fuel lines could be mixed up at the regulator and bypass connections?

I just went through this issue with someone else who had an earlier model Impezza. Power is supplied through the fuse panel in the dash to the switch on top of the column. That switch passes power even when it is OFF. That car used a white/red wire to supply power from the dash fuse panel to the switch on top of the column. Your car may be the same. The problem we found was due to a bad jumper connection inside the dash fuse panel which tied power from the Main Panel under the hood into the dash fuse panel. I assume you also checked the fuses under the hood for any problem when you made the checks. Good job BTW. Ebay is a good place to find CD version service manuals at a very good price. You would be wise to purchase one. It makes looking into problems like this so much easier. You already seem to have the meter.

If your model is similair to the WRX model refered to in the link I provided I suggest you try removing the differential control relay to see if that makes a difference. As the drawing shows, there is also a direct power connection to the module which could be shorted.

Just as a note, now that the light is off you should now see voltage on the brake wire. The switch makes a connection to ground in order to turn on the light. You found that the connection to ground was already made when you saw no voltage on the wire.

Here is some reference that may help you. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1943948&highlight=backup+fuse

MERRY CHRISTMAS to all from "The Cat" in the Chugach Mountain range.

My info shows it on the left side behind the cover under the steering wheel. Remove the cover and look for it on the left side of the opening. The wire colors going to the socket are brown/red, blue/yel, and black. With the hazard switch in the OFF position power from fuse 1 passes through the hazard switch and on to the brown/red wire. So you should see power on that wire. When the turn signal switch is on I think you then should see pulsing power on the blue/yel wire if the module is working correctly.

Check the 3 pin turn signal/hazard module for a problem.

Ebay is good place to find used factory manuals for your car at reasonable prices. There are no substitute manuals better than a factory manual. I think the wiring is covered in the manual marked Section 6, even though there are only four manuals in the set.

I suspect something has failed electrically. It could be related to either the fuel delivery system or the ignition. The results of starting fluid trick should point which direction to pursue.

Well hopefully you haven't damaged the wiring by replacing the link with a piece of wire. You should never replace a fuse with a piece of normal wire. If there was damaged caused it is already done. See if the engine will fire up using some starter fluid sprayed into the intake. If that doesn't help check to see if you are getting spark to the plugs. You might also check all the fuses to see if any of them are blown out also.

I suspect the injector timing is so far off that the ECU isn't allowing them to work. Once the timing belts are set correctly I think it will fire right up.

Normally, you should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on briefly when you turn the key to the ON position. If you don't hear it I suspect there is an electrical power problem causing the pump not to turn on. Once you know the correct wires going to the pump you could apply power to them and see if that makes the pump run. Checking the fuel pump relay wiring for power is good also. If there are fusible links used in this model that would be good to check but I think there may only be one in the main panel if I remember correctly.

Your idle speed seems a little low and should be closer to 750 RPM I believe. Another thing you might do is go over the engine ground connections and clean them up along with the battery to chassis connection.