Cougar

If you can't find the problem with the ground wire going to the MAF you can just make a temporary ground connection on the MAF ground pin to see what happens then.

I don't think the MAF ground is bad, it is the wire that ties to the MAF that is bad. You need to find the break in the wire that should tie to ground.

I would check to see if you have voltage on the minus side of the coil with the ignition ON. You should see around 12 volts. If you have voltage there then put one of the plugwires in place of the coilwire in the coil. Place a plug in the other end of the wire and ground the plug to the engine. With the ignition on, try grounding the minus side of the coil real briefly with a wire tied to ground. Hold on to the insulation of the wire and not the bare end when doing this. You should see a spark on the plug if the coil is ok. The trouble is with the new disty somehow. Possibly the pickup inside.

I'm not sure if this is the correct module but my data shows a Mode Actuator under the center of the dash and is where I would expect to find this kind of thing.

To see if the engine is stalling due to a lack of fuel try spraying some starter fluid into the intake. If the engine responds to that then you know you are not done with the fuel system. Perhaps the fuel pump is getting weak after running for a period of time or there is a electrical problem with the wiring to it.

If the CC is just shutting down intermittently for no apparent reason I would check the adjustment for the switch on the brake pedal that is used to shut the CC off when the pedal is pressed. The clutch also if you have one. It may just be a simple problem like that occuring. I'm not sure if this is a seperate switch from the brake switch or not.

It sounds like at least one of the old wires was intermittent. Using a ohmmeter to check for bad plug wires on problems like this has limited value in my book but it is all that most people have to check with. A scope would have told the story real quick. The high ohm reading you made of the new wire would make me think that you either had a bad meter connection to the wire or there really is something wrong with it's connectors. You should see numbers between 10k to 20k depending on the length of the wire, which the resistance is directly related to. Glad you like the forum. There are a lot of helpful folks here that know what they are talking about. As you can see, there are some rocket scientists here also along with being great Sooby mechanics. Good to hear you got your rocket engine running well.

Glad you found the problem Frank. Hopefully a new replacement motor won't cost you a lot of dough.

I assume you are going to fix the damaged items you have found so far. Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see how the engine responds to that? You may need to flush out the fuel system as it may be contaminated.

The alternator needs to be running in order to measure the AC being generated from it. You really don't have to do the test since the alternator is bad but it does satisfy the curiosity.

I recommend you check the pedal switches first. They can just be out of adjustment and make the CC think you are stepping on the brake or clutch pedal. A simple fix if that is the case.

It shouldn't make any difference which way you connect the power up to the fan plug except the direction the motor will turn. If the motor works ok doing the test then I would suspect the relay as the problem first.

This is interesting. I didn't realize the regulator was placed after the fuel rails. Thanks for the good info Skip and Roger.

I believe the pump pressure should normally be around 50 psi, with fuel injection anyways. I think the lower pressure you seeing may be due to low voltage at the pump when the engine is idling. I would check the voltage at the battery and the alternator to see if there is a difference between the two readings. The alternator may have a output problem or the belt is slipping so you can check that also.

Good deal. Thanks for the update.

It may be a coincidence, but the fact that you moved the battery cables and the security lights started flashing means to me that connection to power was made somehow. Perhaps the battery has a internal connection problem to the plates and by placing the right movement on the cables made the connection. Measuring the battery voltage at the posts while the trouble is happening will tell the story if that is true or not.

I would clean the battery connections with a battery brush and check the fusible links for a bad connection.

I agree with Caboobaro' advice. Most likely a bad pump or clogged line and filter.

I would check the vent door. I sounds like it is stuck in the open position.

The lock switch does control the other three windows so fixing it may get those working. I would check for a broken wire in the door jamb for the driver's window.

I must say good call to Skip for thinking of the alternator as the path for this trouble. Each of the warning lights are diode isolated from the switched side of the ignition line. To see if the voltage is backfeeding through a bad diode you can remove the warning lights to open the path. If voltage is leaking through that way, pulling out the bulb will open the line. Here is another thought after looking at my prints again. The warning lights are tied to fuse #9 so try pulling it out when the trouble happens. If it kills the engine we are on the right path to solving this mystery.

"Elementry my dear Watson!" Thanks for the feedback.

You could try sucking some Seafoam through a vacuum line to see if that will clean out some carbon build up in the cylinders that may be causing this trouble.

It sounds like there may be a couple of problems with the electrical system. As suggested earlier there looks to be a problem with alternator diodes. That is what is turning the warning lights on. I would replace the alternator and then see what happens. You are correct in your thinking about there being a problem with the wiring to the accessories since the battery voltage is significantly higher than the accessories voltage. Make sure the connector at the battery for the accessories power is making good connection. I would then check the fusible links and make sure they are making good connection. If that checks ok then check the connector going to the ignition switch in the steering column. A number of problems have been found there. If it is bad you can just run a wire connection around the connector. If the problem isn't there either then check the ignition switch. You just need to keep moving down the main power line until you find the trouble. Hopefully you have a wiring diagram and a voltmeter to work with on this problem. The problem should be easy to find using those things.

That is a very interesting tech note. I wonder what the modified relay is. Thanks for the notice OB99W.