Cougar

As usual you both have good points about this problem. When I hear of this kind of thing happening I usually look for a supply voltage problem as the cause of the buzzing. The relay closes for some reason and the load is connected to the supply which can't handle the current load for some reason. The supply voltage drops and the relay coil opens the circuit. The supply voltage then goes back up and the process starts again. You both know what I'm talking about. I know you have "been there, done that!". If that was the problem then it would seem that changing the relay wouldn't fix the problem as Emily stated it did so I must be off the track here and something is just bad inside the relay as both of you and Emily stated.

It would be interesting to know what is causing this problem with the relays.

Let us know how you make out with the check and if you need anymore info.

I think the voltmeter is fine. It is the wiring to it that makes the readings show a little different than what the actual battery voltage is. My meter indicated about 1 volt lower than the actual battery voltage due to wiring losses to the meter. It really didn't bother me. You could still see what was happening with the charging system without any problem. As was stated previously, it is more a reference than a absolute measurement.

The new battery may be slighly low on charge but it does sound like things are good to go. Relpacing the battery also is a good thing to do when changing the alternator. Especially if it is more than 4 years old. Thanks for the update.

I failed the test. I guess I need to stick my head under the hood more often.

You may be able to find out which cylinder is causing the trouble by watching the firing pulses on a scope. My '01 H-6 requires 92 octane. I'm not sure if that is also true for the newer models or not.

First off, welcome to the forum. Hope you like it here. There is a lot of good advice and fun here. Second thing is a warning. After getting used to the Subaru, you may end up leaving the Toyota line . I wonder if the engine has been changed because I was under the impression that the '88 GL-10 only used MPFI. I used to have two of those cars at one time (w/moonroofs) but no longer have them. I still have the FSMs so I can help with any questions. Particularly in the electrical area.

I suspect the problem is in one of the connectors between the solenoid and the ECU. My info shows that a Blue/red wire runs from the solenoid to pin 4 on one of the ECU connectors. There is a black, 6 pin, circular connector (F42) near the battery that the wire runs through. You may be able to clear the problem by just pulling the connector apart and reconnecting it. If that doesn't work then I would start checking the wiring with a ohmmeter. First see what the coil resistance is at the solenoid. The second wire goes to ground so you should get a reading by just touching the B/r wire and ground, with the solenoid connected to the socket, using your meter. If you don't see around 40 ohms then check the ground wire for a open connection. There are other solenoids tied to that ground so I suspect it is really okay. If things are good there then check the pins on both sides of the circular connector. I don't see how you can get away with placing tape over the CEL light. The test stations here check that light first thing. If it doesn't work in the test mode then the test is over and you fail the test. The CEL light must work before further testing is done. Maybe some states don't require it, but they do here. I think once things are fixed the error light will turn off immediately.

I can't say this for sure but, I suspect that the wipers are being turning on through the wiper delay circuit somehow. It is the only thing I can think of that may allow power to get to the motor when the wiper switch is off and the wipers are parked.

The battery basically acts as a filter for AC pulses on the charging system. There may be other problems with you electical system. I would have a check done to see if the system is discharging more than it should be while the car is parked. If there is more than 80 milliamps draw then you need to check for a problem.

It shouldn't hurt anything by running it with the bad connector on it but since it isn't charging anyways you can just leave it off and run it that way.

Have you checked the items I suggested yet?

The shop that did the work should at least fix the drivers window if it was working when you brought it in. The other windows may not be working due to a bad control unit, relay, or the door switches. Be sure the lockout switch is working also.

Before purchasing a new coil you could try swapping the two and see if that makes the misfire follow the coil. One thing that may help with misfires is to run some Seafoam through the intake while reving the engine. It will help clean out carbon deposits if there are some in the cylinders.

I would guess that the connector is near the steering column. It looks like you have the factory manual data and I think there are drawings that show the locations of the connectors in the FSM. You may be able to fix the problem by just pulling the connector off and replacing it once you find the correct one.

I have the Equus model 3110 reader and the new 3130 scanner. They are great I think. So far I have not needed them for my Subaru but I have used them on a few friends vehicles that showed some error lights. I recommend them if anyone is looking to purchase one. I purchased both of them through Ebay at significantly reduced retail prices.

What you say does sound like it could be true and if it is, it is pretty rare . The injectors are grounded in the ECU. Apparently something has failed in it to only fire two injectors. I don't know enough about the ECU circuit design to explain what might cause this to happen unfortunately. The O2 sensor should have thrown a code error if it wasn't connected. It appears someone has fiddled with the internals of the ECU and may be why things failed in it. The money to fix the wiring sounds within reason but it is hard to say how much time is needed for the repairs. The car did run so things couldn't be too bad.

My guess is someone wanted to be able to turn on the wipers without having to turn the key.

Check my reply in your other post about this problem. In the future please keep using the same thread for additional posts about the same trouble. It is easier for everyone to follow what is going on about this.

As Artie Johnson would say..."Verrry interesting!"

I think you idea is workable but you may find that purchasing the extra seats and especially new heater coils is cost prohibitive. Have you looked into the cost of these items yet? I would think you would be better off finding a car with these options included with the car. If you are going to finance the car, the extra amount for a car with better options shouldn't increase the monthly payment by too much but I don't know what your situation is and can only offer a suggestion. Hope you can something in your price range.

It sounds like the power to the wipers has been tied to a hot wire instead of the ignition switch, along with the stereo.

Here is a list of the codes as defined from Equus web site: P0106 Generic Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Range/Performance P0107 Generic Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Low Input P1143 Subaru Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input It appears all of them have to do with the MAP sensor. Looking at the definitions it appears to me that the sensor is not getting enough signal to the ECU. Since you have replaced the sensor the next thing to do is look for a wiring problem between the sensor and the ECU. There appears to be a bad connection somewhere causing a low signal level. I would check the connections between the sensor and the ECU using a ohmmeter to make sure they are ok. If they are good then the problem may be with the input of the ECU for that circuit. Some folks have found bad solder joints to the connector, inside the ECU. One other thought is that the new sensor may be bad. It appears the codes changed after you replaced the sensor so if the wiring is ok then it would seem to point to the new sensor as being bad.

Well the only thing that will cause a engine to high rev is to give it fuel and that would mean through the carb I would have to say. Somehow the carb is not cutting the fuel down when the throttle is back to low. Have you checked the butterfly valve position when the throttle is released? A bad float will cause fuel to be poured into the engine.