Cougar

Since you have verified there is spark please refer to my earlier post, #46.

Try spraying some starter fliud into the intake and see if that makes it fire. If that doesn't make it fire I would check the compression next. If you think it is a timing problem then mark the current position of the disty and then try turning it slighly as someone cranks it.

It could be the regulator Nipper. The trouble may also be with the field so check the voltage on the small wires going to the alternator. Be sure that they are near the battery voltage. If the field doesn't energize the stator windings then you have no output.

The problem most likely is with the alternator Nipper but I would check the connections to the alternator to make sure that things are ok there. You should see voltage readings close to the battery voltage at all the connections. If it is lower then you need to check that lead for a problem. From your post it sounds like you are saying that the battery voltage is low after the car is setting for a few hours which may mean there is a drain on the system. If that is so and there was no problem like that before the new alternator was installed then it would seem that the alternator is backfeeding a current and needs to be replaced.

Have you checked the compression of the cylinders and are you sure both timing belts are ok?

I would check wires going the pins you stated with a ohmmeter. Make sure they are making good connection to the board first before you condemn the unit. If the wires are ok then the problem is most likely with the IC that ties to those wire connections. Since you have a voltage on the pins chances are the connections are ok and there is a actual circuit problem causing this trouble. If you would like me to fix the ECU for you let me know. It should be a pretty easy fix by replacing the right part. If you are handy with a solder iron you could try it yourself and save a lot of money over even a rebuilt one. You don't want to know what a new one from the dealer would cost you.

It sounds like you are getting the 'bugs' worked out on it. Soon you will be trouble free.

The coil and distributor really have nothing to do with this charging trouble. To eliminate the trouble check the following areas. First check the fusible links for a connection problem. If they are ok then check the smaller lead from the positive battery post that supplies power to the car accessories. Also check the connections to the back of the alternator and make sure they are clean and tight. Another possible problem area may be with the alternator warning light in the dash. If there is a bad connection to it then the alternator field will not get the proper voltage. You must check all these things as they effect the charging system.

GD, I think the alternator wire is more likely to short out than the starter cable lead. For one, the lead is near the top of the engine where it is easy to get at and if the alternator's internal blocking diode went south, watch out.

I too will wish you the best on the new job. Perhaps after some time, you can step up to a Outback later down the road. If you have more trouble with this one later on let us know.

I think the AC fan should turn on whenever the AC is turned on. This bypasses the thermoswitch I think so the fan motor may be bad or there may be a bad relay that ties power to the motor. Try running power directly to the fan to see if it will run that way and eliminate it as the problem.

Good deal Robert. Hopefully everything is ok now and you can enjoy the ride without any troubles.

By running a bypass wire like that you are defeating the fusible link that is there to protect the wiring. If that new wire gets shorted to ground somehow you will almost certainly have a fire start. I would recommend you put a inline fuse in the line close to the battery if you do this.

GD, I think you are correct about the switch being part of the latch. The switch does make a ground connection to turn on the warning light and chime. The switch appears to be shorted somehow and that will require getting into the door panel. The charging problem is a seperate issue.

The engine heat is way too high to have any ice left in the engine. The thermostat is the trouble in my opinion. I would get a genuine Subaru replacement for it.

Great news. Thanks for the update.

Thanks for heads up WW. Since that is the case then the two clues would seem to be directly related to a common problem like a door switch not opening up when the door is closed. If there is a diagram in the dash to show which door is showing open that would be a big help. It may also help to just try reclosing all the doors to see if that clears the trouble.

You may be correct Cynthia and GD. It would seem odd to have the key chime come on with the ignition on now that you bring that up and I think about it. Cynthia, it's interesting you are getting 'more respect' by the mechanics after they found out you post here.

As with the others I would say this problem is either with the fusible link contacts, the ignition switch connector, or the ignition relay. My info for a '88 model shows the relay is connected to a brown socket near the steering column. I don't think the inhibit switch is the trouble since the problem is causing a outage to all the dash power. A bad inhibit switch would only cause a starting problem.

If you are talking about the main output connection of the alternator having this problem you may be correct. All connections need to be well made anyways. The main output lead has to carry a lot of charging current so it is very important that the connection is well made and has very low resistance to the battery post.

To find out what is causing this problem with the alternator it would be very helpful to have a voltmeter to test with. To see if the ground is the problem check the voltage between the engine ground and the negative battery post. If things are good the voltage should be close to zero. Be sure to check the small wire from the positive battery post and make sure it is ok. A bad connection there will cause this trouble. Also make sure the fusible links are making good connection as was suggested.

The charging problem may be due to a bad connection to the alternator. The cold weather can bring out problems like that so I would make sure that all the connections to the alternator and the battery are clean and snug to see if that helps with this problem. Be sure that the alternator warning light is working ok also since that is in the alternator field circuit. If the problem is with the alternator then I would suggest getting a remaufactured rebuilt unit, like from Bosch, that carries a lifetime warranty. The chime problem sounds like one of the door closed switches (probably the driver's door) is not opening as it should and the chime you hear is really for the key in the ignition warning.

I think that was me that wrote that. It was a driver transistor that tied to the output switching transistor for the pump ground and I found that same problem in two different ECUs. I think BigBs problem is different since the ground to the pump comes on for a brief time least, as it should. From his posts it sounds to me that the injector(s) may not be turning on. That is why I suggested using starter fluid to what happens with that.

Make sure that the coolant sensor, for the ECU not the temperture gauge, is working as it should. If it isn't, then the fuel mixture may be too rich. This is a fairly common problem.

The ECU needs to see ignition pulses before it will complete the ground to the pump. The short inital turn on is normal to get pressure up to start the engine. If you still think the pump is not working correctly then try running power directly to the pump and see what happens. The problem of not starting may be due to the injector(s) not opening. Try squirting some starter fluid into the intake to see if that makes the engine fire up for a short burst at least. Then you will know this is a fuel problem for sure.