Cougar

The reason the code is being generated by the ECU is because it sees a problem with current in the EGR solenoid circuit. The ECU needs to see the proper current flow in the circuit or it will send out a code saying there is a problem with the circuit. This is the reason you can fool the ECU using a resistor is because the resistor limits the current to the proper amount the ECU wants to see. It makes the ECU think it sees the solenoid coil resistance. As it was mentioned earlier replacing the solenoid valve may not fix the problem since the trouble may be with the wiring between the ECU and the solenoid. Solenoid coils are pretty reliable so I would think the trouble is really with the connection to it. The problem may also be internal to the ECU. To see if the solenoid coil is ok you can measure the resistance of the coil. If you read something between say 40 and 120 ohms, as a guess, then the coil is good and the problem would appear to be with the connection to the device. My info for a SPFI system shows that the EGR solenoid ties to the ECU on pin 4 with a blue/red wire. You should be able to remove the connector to the ECU while the car is off and measure the resistance of the solenoid between pin 4 of the connector and ground. If the circuit is ok you will see the resistance of the solenoid coil. If you don't, then there is a problem with the wiring or the coil.

The connections that need to be tied to the resistor are the two leads that go to the solenoid. I really don't recommend this procedure but it does clear the error.

If you have solid 12 volt power getting to the dash and a good ground connection also then it would seem the power convertor in the dash is the problem.

Matt, To see if the fuel pump is getting power you should be able to hear it turn on for a few seconds when you turn the key from OFF to ON or RUN. Listen for a low hum in the rear of the car. If you don't hear it then try cranking the car briefly and try it again. If you don't hear anything then there would appear to be a problem with the fuel pump relay, the wiring to the pump, or the ECU. Since you are getting ignition it verifies that the fusible links are ok and making good connection in the box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Another possibility is a clogged fuel filter. If it hasn't been replaced in a while it would be good to replace it also.

I agree with St. Nickolas. Try changing the plugs wires to solve this trouble.

You are most likely correct in thinking the problem is with the hatch door switch but it could be another one also. The switches are incorporated with the latch itself I believe so you may have to get inside the door panel to check the switch contacts. I would check the voltage getting to the switch while the door is open and closed. The switch may make a ground connection when the door is open so the voltage across the switch would be zero volts when the door is open. If I am wrong, one way you will have a voltage and the other you won't at least.

Your welcome for the help Mike. Thanks for the feedback and glad you got the problem solved finally.

Check the fusible links and the ignition switch connector in the steering column for aa bad connection.

Please follow the following instuctions to help solve this problem. This was advice was stated before but if you did the tests you never replied back as to what you observed, . Check for voltage getting to the plus side of the ignition coil using a voltmeter. Place the meter common lead to ground and the red lead to the plus side of the coil with the ignition ON. Without voltage getting to that point you will have the results you are experiencing. You can change all the parts you want and it will do no good to solve this trouble. If you have 12 volts on the plus (should be marked on the coil)side of the coil then check the minus side of the coil for voltage. You should have voltage there also but a bit less than 12 volts. If there is voltage there then check for a pulsing voltage at that point while cranking the engine. If you don't have any voltage getting to the coil then you need to check the ignition switch for a problem and the fusible links.

If the second code is coming on because of the resistor you installed you may need to use a different value. What size resistor did you use? If you used a 10 ohm resistor that may be too low.

Since the lights didn't go out at the same time then the trouble most likely is just the bulbs. You may also want to check the charging voltage to make sure it is not too high and causing this problem to occur.

Check the fusible links in the plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir. Make sure they are making good connection. It is also possible you blew one out if you didn't remove the battery connections before working on the alternator. As mentioned by someone else, there is a common problem with the ignition switch connector in the steering column. Sometimes the contacts in the connector get burnt due to the high current that runs through them. It is pretty easy to correct with some other new connectors on the wires.

I would guess that errors on the valves wouldn't be a problem. If both valves are having trouble I would make sure they both have a good ground connection on one of their leads and if that is ok then check the circular connector near the battery. They both run through that. You may fix the trouble by just pulling it apart and reconnecting it.

You should purchase a test light probe at least to help with trouble. They are less than 10 dollars and will show you if you have power getting to the test point for sure. You just clip one end to ground and touch the test spot with the probe. If the light turns on you are good to go. Check the fusible links in the box mounted on the coolant reservoir and make sure they are ok and making good contact on both sides. My manual shows the red one supplies power to the head lights for a '88 model and yours is probably the same. If they are ok then I would suspect the switch next. It supplies a ground to the lights to turn them on.

Since the heads has been done replaced recently that should mean you have a long life ahead without engine trouble through it isn't gauranteed. You could try making the owner a good offer or ask if they are flexable on the price. No harm in that. There are lots of cars out there for sale and you don't have to get this one if you don't like the price.

I have my doubts about changing the coil to solve this problem. What about the plugs? Have they been changed? That would be my first choice over the wires and coil in my book. Cleaning the EGR valve may help also. A intake manifold leak may be present when the engine is cold is another possibility I think. As far as the CEL light is concerned, does it turn on when turning the key from OFF to ON? If not, then something is wrong.

The limp mode is a mode the ECU uses when some non critical things go wrong with the sensors. It allows the driver to still drive but the engine isn't running at it's best. Things like fuel economy suffer but you can still get home at least and get the car to the shop for repairs.

Hi Doug, The light switch controls both the front and the back lights. Follow my instructions in post #10 of this thread. I'll bet the lights will turn on. Glen

If the connection to the solenoid is ok then yes, the resistor will work.

If this was my car I would want to find the source of the trouble. Yes, the solenoid is supposed to open and close so just swapping in a resistor to take the place of the solenoid is not the real fix in my book, though this will make the light go out if the solenoid is really the trouble. You also don't want to leave the warning light on since the ECU may go into the limp mode and if another more serious problem occurs you won't know about it since the light is already on. By placing the proper resistor across the ECU pin for the solenoid and ground you can see if the problem clears. If it does then the problem is with either the solenoid or the wiring to it. If it doesn't go out then the problem is internal to the ECU.

Mike, if you can get a used ECU for around $50 dollars it would be a good deal. If you have to spend more than $100 dollars for one then you might want to at least consider looking at the inside of yours just to see if it a bad connection and save yourself some cash. I like to tinker around on things like this so I would have no problem opening it up to see what was causing the trouble. Even without a diagram it is pretty easy to follow the connections.

My first recommendation would be to remove the connection to the head light and make sure the contacts or clean and tight. I think the problem may be right there since it is a common trouble point. If that doesn't work then check the red/wht and red/blk wires at the switch. You can ground those wires and see if that makes the lights brighter. If it does, then the swich is the trouble. If it remains the same then there is a problem in the wiring between there and the lights.

The error code is generated when the ECU doesn't see the correct current flow in the valve circuit. This is why you can fool the ECU by swapping a resistor in place of the solenoid. Since you replaced the valve with another one and the code didn't clear it may be the real problem is with the connection to the valve. It would be a good idea to check the circuit using a ohmmeter on the connector pin that ties to the valve at the ECU. You should see about the same resistance of the solenoid coil there as when you check it directly. If the connection looks good then the trouble may be internal to the ECU.

Good deal Greg. Glad you go it going and thanks for the feedback. Drive on.

You have done the correct testing Mike. It looks like you have gone as far as you can go with this problem short of getting into the ECU. You may want to do that. I know I would check it out, and you have enough savy with a meter to check into this. So lets go for it. Some folks have repaired ECU problems by finding simply bad connections to the outside connector. Who knows, maybe that is what this problem is also. I would find the connection to pin 10 inside the ECU and see if is ok. If that is fine then you could trace the circuit back to see where it ties to a component on the board. Chances are that component (most likely a IC) is damaged and needs to be replaced. I have some IC's left over from other jobs and it may match yours if that is the case.