Cougar

You have most likely blown a fusible link out. Look for a small plastic box near the battery area. The links should be inside it. The links look like short pieces of wire and are color coded for capacity.

Power to the injectors should be checked. You stated that the injectors aren't getting pulsed so does that mean they have power getting to them? If not, check for power on fuse SBF-2 under the hood. If that is okay then see if the red wire on pin 39 of the ECU has power on it with the ignition switched on. If there is no power on that pin then the Main Relay should be checked to see if power is getting to it from fuse SBF-2. The red wire is the power in and the yel/blu wire is the switched output.

It's pretty simple these days to find information on things you have a question on. For some reason I can't copy the web site to this post. Do a search on how a Bosch relay works. You will find all kinds of info on this and become a relay expert.

Just an added note in case you aren't aware of it. The speed control resistors are located on the return side of the circuit for the blower motor. Power comes from the relay, then to the motor, and then on to the switched resistors and ground.

You're welcome for the help and thanks for the update. Glad you got it going.

I assume that the problem is happening to more than just one station and if so the only thing that could cause that to happen, though I can't explain how it is, is inside the radio and you should have a warranty covered issue.

The fuel pump relay should be very close to the side of the car, on the driver side, under and near the top of the dash.

If the meter will measure current up to a couple of amps that should be fine. If it doesn't measure current then you will need to get one. I suggest you get a meter if you don't have one that will work. They aren't that expensive really to get one that will work for you. Getting one that can handle 10 amps of current would be good. Sears should have something. When doing current tests the meter needs to be in series with the power supply.

Thanks for the update.

I used to have two of those and were even the same color. The first one I purchased new. I would see if the owner would accept 6 or 700 dollars for the car since the heads are bad and is a common issue with that model. If you purchase it consider replacing the heads with the latest version and only use genuine Subaru gaskets. You might consider replacing the radiator also when doing the repair. Other common problems to watch for is the alternator and the ECU fuel pump circuit. A driver transistor can fail in the ECU and the pump won't work. There are past posting about that problem. I have fixed two ECUs with that problem in the past. One of them was on the second car I purchased and the other one I fixed was for a local shop that I went to for help on this problem before I found out what was really wrong. Their replacement ECU had the same problem mine did. They were going to throw it out so I asked them for. After I found out the bad transistor in my unit it was easy to fix their unit and I gave it back to them. This problem occurred in my car after the alternator was replaced. As soon as the engine was started it then died. I assume the higher charging voltage from the replacement alternator killed the weak transistor.

Well hopefully things are okay now with the new alternator installed. The current drain of .02 amps is right where a normal current draw should be so that isn't a problem. A common place for a current drain problem to occur is the CD player getting jammed. But again your test proved that wasn't a problem. In a earlier post you stated you measured 21.9 VAC even while the engine wasn't running. The reason you got that reading is due to the design of your meter. It doesn't block the DC component while in the AC volts mode. It is just something you need to be aware of when you use a meter. Usually higher end meters will block the DC so the meter would have shown zero volts in that case. You can add a series capacitor (about a .02ufd) in one of the probe leads and that would block the DC but still allow the AC to be measured. Another place that can be a problem and make it seem the battery is low is the inhibit switch and the starter solenoid contacts. Vehicles around 10 years old commonly will have worn out solenoid contacts which is usually determined by hearing a fairly loud click when you go to start the engine. While the solenoid is working the contacts are worn and not allowing power to get to the starter motor windings. The contacts can be replaced in that case. When the inhibit switch has a problem, power can't get to the solenoid and you won't hear the loud click of the solenoid working. Sometimes just physically adjusting the switch position can fix that problem.

As long as the circuit is closed and the load (pump motor) is making good connection to power and ground there should be 12 volts supplied to the motor windings and also to the meter. Now if the ground lead for the pump was open and you placed the meter reference probe on a good chassis ground point then the motor would not work since it has no connection to the ground return but your meter would show good voltage. If you placed the reference probe on the same open ground connection going to the motor the meter would not read any voltage.

I think your problem is under the dash area and not under the hood. Code 12 has to do with the ignition switch. The gold box is the ECU unit.

I don't think there is a cam sensor on this engine. It seems to me that the most likely suspect for this trouble is the igniter module. Make sure the coil body is making a good connection to ground.

Naru, I think the OP was saying the ground lead for the pump had no resistance to it, which is a good thing. Like Naru stated, to see if the pump works okay just run power directly to it.

If the fan speed control is variable and not a few different speeds then the trouble may be the speed control module. It varies the available power to the motor and has to supply the current to it. Be sure to check the fuses under the hood also.

My info for a 88 model shows fuse 12 supplies power to the gauges and your model is most likely uses the same fuse. The fuse also supplies power to the door warning lights so they work the fuse is most likely okay and power is getting through. Even though a fuse is good it is good to make sure power is getting to it also if that is in question. If that is okay then you need to look for a connection problem between that fuse and the dash panel itself. My info shows that a red/yellow wire comes from fuse 12 and connects to a black/white wire and that goes to the dash panel to power the gauges.

There is a safety design for the fuel system that cuts the power to it if the ECU doesn't see ignition pulses. When you turn the key to the ON position the pump should turn on for a couple of seconds.

Check the fusible links inside the box mounted on the coolant reservoir and make sure they are okay and making good connection.

The igniter module is a common problem.

Thanks Gloyale. I had the MPFI model and assumed they were all the same.

When the trouble happens again you need to verify that power is getting to the 'plus' side of the coil. The 'minus' side of the coil should make a test light probe blink while you are cranking the engine. Always check power to the ignition system first whenever it has a problem The test connectors should be near the ECU located under the dash above the steering column.

If you suspect a fuel problem then the fuel filter is the first place to start by replacing it. I tend to think you might have an ignition problem myself or an intermittent power problem to the ignition. Possibly the igniter might be intermittent. Make sure the fusible links are making solid connection that are inside the box on the coolant reservoir. Check the intake manifold gaskets for leaks.

Disconnecting the main alternator connection may be a good place to start the hunt. Just remember, the main lead is always hot to the battery and will short if touches ground. It is best to remove the battery ground lead first before working on that lead.

There is most likely a common power source for the gauges. Always verify all the fuses are good when having this kind of trouble. Using a test light probe to verify power is getting to both sides of the fuse is the best way to do that. Place the probe tip on each of the two slits on top of the fuse and each side should light up.