Cougar

Since the console light works intermittently it means that there is a loose connection somewhere. I would check the bulb and socket first for the trouble. The problem with the seat heater switch light may be due to a burnt out bulb. This is common. You can replace the bulb but it takes some doing as the bulb is in the switch assembly. I think there is some info about doing this that can be found if you do a search. Edit Here is some info that may help you if you decide to do this yourself. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26986&highlight=seat+heater+bulb

Another thing to check is the exciter voltage to the alternator. There may be a intermittent problem there. Make sure that it is near the battery voltage. The warning light may have a loose connection that is causing intermittent voltage getting to the exciter.

Actually, we were talking about a area in Seattle.

I too graduated as a Highlander. The year was the reverse of your graduation year.

You can check for voltage on the wire at any point you wish. You can pierce the insulation also though it is not recommened. But sometimes it is necessary to get a reading. For the test to be valid you need to leave all components in the ciricuit and with the circuit live.

Glad to hear you got things going. The Shoreline area is where I grew up. We were back there in May visiting family. It's a nice area to live if you can handle the heavy traffic at times.

Hopefully the ECUs are close to the same if you have a manual for a different model. The quickest way to find the trouble would be to check which circuit(s) was damaged in the ECU and back track the wiring from the plug pin(s) tied to that circuit(s). Using the manual as your guide, it's really not too difficult.

I agree with Northwet about the dropping resistors. You are going to have to get a wiring diagram, if you don't have one already, to check things out. Another problem may be is a circuit has been changed and power is being applied to a part of the ECU that it shouldn't be going to. I would check each lead of the ECU plugs while the ECU is disconnected and the ignition is ON. Measure the voltage of each lead and then the resistance of any leads that don't have any voltage on them. You will need to look over the wiring diagram to see if the measurements seem to be correct or not. Another thing you can do is to try and trace the damaged ECU circuit from inside the ECU. By locating the current path that was damaged it will show you which external lead you need to trace and find the problem.

If I am understanding the operation correctly I think there should be some voltage on pin 15 of the module. With the cruise control ON, check the voltage on pin 4 of the module and see if there is 12 volts there. Try running a jumper between pin 4 an pin 15 and see if the cruise works then. If it does, then check the inhibitor relay.

The problem may be due to a wiring problem but the best suspect is the park swtich in the motor is open. This keeps power to the motor even when the ON switch is turned to off. Then the switch opens when the wipers reach the bottom and stop the motor.

Yes, it needs to be on. Notice the relays in the circuit.

You can check them both (pin 15 and 20) there if you want and is most likely easier to do it there. The only trouble is it doesn't check the wiring between the two points in case there is a problem there.

As the others stated, you were on the switched ground lead when you took the reading. That is why you got 12 volts when the lights were off and while the ground lead was floating. You just need to find the correct lead between the three wires.

Please refer to post #19 for the info.

This isn't a real common problem. The switch contacts for the high speed control would be my first suspect to check.

If you were testing the system while the lights were on, using a digital meter and properly grounded the common lead of the meter, you should have seen 12 volts DC on the common power lead to the headlight. Perhaps the reason you didn't see any DC voltage was due to the fact that the meter may have been set for reading AC volts.

Have you checked the voltage at pin 15 of the cruise module yet, with the system on?

Sorry that the info was not correct. You might try PMing Legacy 777 about this. He would most likely know the answer to this riddle.

Sorry to hear that. Hope things aren't too bad. By grounding the oil sensor lead I mean you remove the lead from the sensor and touch the lead to ground of the engine.

My info only states one fuse as #8 and the other as #12. It looks like #8 may be marked for the CC.

That's a pretty good site Nipper. I listened to the sounds they have for the exhaust systems. I'm torn between deciding on the one with the 5 inch pipe and "The others".

The fuses should be in the same location, in the fuse panel. The cruise control module is behind the right kick panel according to my info.

If the inhibit section is working ok it looks to me there should be 12 volts on pin 15 of the cruise control module. My info shows it to be a Yel/blk wire. There are two fuses involved with the cruise control, #8 and #12. Are they both good?

A quarter inch rope is small enough to fit down the spark plug hole.

Is your digi dash not working? If so and you would like to see if it can be fixed you could send it to me and I'll see what I can do to fix it. No charge to you except shipping and parts costs if I fix it. I have been interested in seeing if there is something we can do for the folks with digital dashes. I prefer them myself. Of the three cars I used to own with the digi dash none of them had any trouble with the display.