Cougar

Great tip GD!

Here is a link to help you out on how to do that. There are a number of sites you can get info like this from. http://www.automedia.com/Compression/CheckUp/res20010301ct/1 As GD stated, it would be best to start your own thread on this if you want to pursue this further.

To see if the oil pressure gauge is ok you may be able to ground the sensor lead breifly and see if the gauge changes. If it does then it would seem the sensor just needs to be replaced. I wouldn't want to run my engine without a working gauge but you can do so if you want to.

Good deal on rotating the crank. Have you checked the compression of the cylinders yet to see what that shows?

Is this what the original looks like? This is a #67 bulb. I didn't see any current specs for this bulb but it looks like it would be a 3 to 4 watt bulb.

Did you rotate the crank before putting the second belt on? If not, then that side may be incorrectly timed.

The stock bulb really runs on 12 volts and is rated at 3.8 watts. Using a higher rated bulb may damage the plastic lens. So what is the count now for how many members it takes to change a bulb?

Check to see if you are getting any voltage to the oil pressure sender. If you don't have any check for a broken wire to the gauge. If the engine is warmed up and you don't have any coolant flow then the thermostat may be stuck closed.

I agree with the others about the PCV system and would try changing the valve with a new OEM one. This is a fairly common problem. You need to do a compression test to evaluate the condition of the engine and that will tell you what will need to be done. If the knocking doesn't clear up you might have a timing problem. If you check the timing be sure to follow the proceedure to check it. The problem may also be due the grade of gas you are using. Especially if you changed brands when this started to happen. Start with the simple check items first and move up from there if you have to.

Check the plugs and if you have a compression tester check the compression on the right side. If both cylinders are bad then you may have a broken timing belt.

I was able to translate the page by right clicking on the page and select 'Translate Page'.

The car seems to handle that rough terrain with no problem. Most others couldn't handle it and would be dead in their tracks.

My info shows the module should be behind the dash, on the pasenger side, near the door.

The reason those lights do what they do when the alternator goes bad is because they are in the exciter circuit of the alternator.

With AWD it is important that all tires be the same size and make. The problem may be due to the tires not being equal between the front and the rear.

Looking at the info I have and if I am looking at what you are asking about in the transmission it shows one side of the switch is tied to power. You could try bypassing that switch to see if that helps get things going. To test the switches you can remove the connection to them and use a ohmmeter to see if it is open or closed. You can also measure the voltage across it if it is open or it will have no voltage across it if it is closed.

Here is a link to some interesting reading on this subject. http://www.technicalchemical.com/pdf-files/LubricantGuide3.pdf More info. http://www.aircondition.com/

I would check the wiring to the lock motor (solenoid?) since there may be a problem with it. Check the voltage getting to it when you activate the locks. Make sure it isn't mechanically jammed also. I did some checking in my service manual and it calls it a lock actuator (for minds that need to know).

Another case solved. Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for the feedback.

Another thing you can do is place the ground jumper along the various yellow/red connection points to see if you can make the blower turn on. When you get to a point that has good connection to the resistors the motor will turn on.

A cheap easy repair would be nice.

Glad your back on the team here.

You got it!

Measure the power supply voltage but place the meter in the AC volts mode instead of the DC mode. This will show you how much AC voltage is riding with the dc component. Your measurement of the alternator voltage shows that the output voltage is too high. You shouldn't see more than 15.25 volts. The alternator may also be generating noise along with the blower motor. I would recommend you replace the alternator and then see what happens.

If I remember correctly the speed switch makes a ground connection through the switch to select which resistor is in the circuit with the motor. This problem can only be due to two things since you have already replaced the resistors. The first possibility is the switch position for speed 2 is open and it doesn't make contact to ground. To prove that you can either measure the voltage across the switch position or the resistance with the power off. You could also make a ground jumper and ground the wire going to the switch 2 position. If the speed then works you know the switch is bad. If the switch is ok then the only thing left is the wire between the switch and the resistors is open somewhere. I would suspect the connector pins first if this is the case.