Cougar

It sounds like you may need to replace the switch. The shorting problem may be due to a problem with the switch itself or in the lighting system.

One common problem is a misadjusted disable switch on the brake pedal. I would check that first since it is easy to do.

The problem may also be due to a faulty relay for the compressor.

Besides bad battery connectors, this kind of thing can also happen due to bad fusible link connections and the connector for the ignition switch. Easy problems to fix if you know what to look for.

It may be easier to use a test light to see if the switch is ok. Just probe the switch contacts to see if they are making contact when you move the switch. You can also swap the switch with the one from the other side. The problem may also be a broken wire in the door jamb.

Have you proved this is a ignition problem yet by checking for spark when this trouble occurs or are you just guessing it is a ignition problem? If you haven't proved the trouble is due to lack of spark I would check that out first. Carry a spare plug with you so you are ready to test when the problem occurs again.

Glad you solved the problem.

The only device I am aware of that generates error codes is the ECU. I don't think seatbelts are part of the system but it is the only thing that will send a code.

Here is a link to the pictures I was refering to. Your connectors should be there also or under the dash by the steering column. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61173

Check out the green and clear connectors in the thread titled 'Name That Connector'. Yours may be the same. If not, look under the dash near the steering column for them.

In answer to your question Toni, yes it is. As I stated before, a normal idle current should be around 35 milliamps, also stated as 0.035 amps. That is a lot less than 2.3 amps. If a car has more than 80 millamps of draw then a search for trouble needs to be made. Since the other car is working ok and your meter showed the same amount of current flow it would seem something is wrong with either the test gear or the test method. My first thought about this is there is something like a light turned on that shouldn't be while you are making the current test. Is there a light under the hood that turns on when the hood is up? If so, you need to disconnect it. Make sure nothing is on in the car when you do the test. If everything in the car is off and both cars show the same 2.3 amp current flow still then the trouble may be with the meter showing a false reading, or you are reading it incorrectly. Are you using a analog or digital meter? If you are using a analog meter you may be reading the multiplyier incorrectly. It sounds like you pulled the red fusible link and made the current drop about 8 tenths of a amp. Did you try pulling the rest of them? I think the red link supplies power to the lighting mainly.

Good troubleshooting using the ammeter. It sounds like there is trouble in the clock circuit and somewhere else. Try removing the main alternator lead to see if that helps. Remember that lead is hot so it is best to remove the battery ground first before disconnecting it and keep it isolated from ground or anything else. Also remove the other leads to the alternator to see if that helps. Checking the fusible links should give you a starting path to the problem. The normal current draw with everything off should only be around 35 milliamps.

It sounds like there may be a problem with the speaker lines if you are getting shocked when the amp is on. One of the leads may be making contact with ground. I would try to find out what is going on with this without turning on the amp if you can. The amp may get damaged if left like this. One clue would be if any speaker is having trouble.

I would first make sure that none of the speaker leads are connected to ground somehow. Remove the leads from the amp output and check the resistance between the leads and ground of the car chassis. There shouldn't be any continuity. If they are ok then check the input to the amp by removing all the inputs from the head. With all the inputs disconnected does the problem still occur? If it doesn't then you need to check the inputs for a problem. The head ground and amp ground may not be the same and you are picking up noise that way. You stated that "I noticed when the amp is plugged in, all the grounds in my car have electricity running through them". Can you explain what you mean by this. Are you saying that you can measure some voltage on the supposed ground? If so, then that point is not really ground and needs to be bonded to real ground. I suspect the real problem you are having is due to dissimilair grounds between the head and the amps.

The code says it is for high circuit input so I would think this means the circuit to the sensor is probably open. I would check for a disconnected connector at the sensor possibly. It may be near the MAF area. The sensor may be bad also but this could be checked with a ohmmeter.

You stated that the 4 voltages were measured with respect to the battery terminal. I assume you mean the negative terminal or ground of the car system. I don't have any reference material right now to look at but I think there is a problem here. I believe there should be at least 5 volts or maybe 12 volts on one of the leads going to the MAF, possibly provided from the ECU. Do you have a manual to check that?

I understand. Using a voltmeter of a testlight to verify things would be the best thing to make sure you are on the right track. You can't tell much by just looking at something with this kind of trouble. Your welcome for the help.

JohnD, you stated what I assume is the output voltage of the sensor. Did you check the input supply voltage also when you did this?

After rereading your statement Sweden I think we have a better clue to the trouble. Since you can't unlock the doors with either the outside or the inside switches then it would seem the trouble would point towards the common timing module or the wires to it. If the passenger door switch will not unlock the doors then the module is in need replacement or you may be able to clean the relay contacts if you can get inside it.

I think there may be a relay in the timer box that is causing the trouble. At least the reason the actuators don't move the locks all the way. You stated that there is not an actuator in the passenger door. So the lock can't be moved then. You then stated that things have stopped. Do you mean the locks are working correctly now? If so, then the timer would seem it was causing this trouble.

There may be a leak in the intake manifold gaskets as was suggested. This is a common problem.

Very possibly. You can verify a leak by doing a leak down test with the cylinders or have the coolant analyzed for exhaust gases.

I think that is correct Jeff. You remove the carpeting to access the panels. I know that is done for the wagons.

Good deal Jerry. Glad you found the trouble. The relays for the lights are about in the middle of the dash area I believe. There should be 4 relays mounted together and I think the middle ones are for the lights. Sounds like your wife is ready for a new line of work.

Thanks for the notification on the operation Sweden. I think the sound you are hearing in the passenger door is the actuator for the lock mechanism. It is activated by a switch that makes contact when the key is turned. The switch contacts get dirty and cause the problem you are having.