Cougar

The trouble can't be with the starter since it is not connected to the battery until the solenoid is closed. Usually this kind of trouble is located in the engine compartment area but it could be with the passenger compartment also. By using a current meter and disconnecting things like Grossgary stated it will lead you to the trouble area.

Like Ivans Imports already suggested, the problem could be due high current draw from the fuel pump instead of a poor connection. By checking the motor current you can see if that is the case or not. You can check the current by removing the fuse for the fuel pump and place a current meter in its place. I would guess the normal current draw should be less than 8 amps. If it is more than than I would suspect the pump motor has a problem. It could be due to a restriction of the motor shaft.

Since there is signs of things getting power the problem could be with the starter solenoid contacts. They can be replaced for around 12 dollars if you do the work yourself. If more than 10 volts is getting to the main battery lead tied to the solenoid and the solenoid is working then the contacts are suspect. If the solenoid isn't working in the START position then the inhibit or safety switch circuit needs to be checked along with the ignition switch connections to that circuit area.

If you haven't already thoroughly cleaned the battery connections that needs to be done first. If that doesn't help then you need to check the main battery cables for bad connections on the other end and check for internal wire corrosion at the battery end. Voltage at the starter solenoid end should be around 10 volts while the starter is cranking the engine. It is also possible that the battery may have an internal connection problem when it is heated up. Checking the battery voltage while the problem is occurring will show where the trouble is at.

If you are using bulbs that are a higher wattage than the original design was then that could be part of the problem. I assume the numbers you gave in your first post was really the voltage and not current draw. The voltage at that point is a little low if that is correct depending on if the battery voltage was at about 12.5 volts. Along with checking the voltage getting to the bulb itself it might be a good idea to check the voltage drop on the return side of the bulb and the negative battery post while the light is on. You should have less than .5 volts across that ground connection.

Simply by using a relay possibly in the circuit and cutting the power to them. The injectors share a common power source.

You can replace a number of things in an effort to solve an ignition problem and it won't do any good if the ignition system isn't getting power to it. Whenever you have an ignition problem the very first step to take is verify power is getting the system (at least that is what "my book" says). Once that has been verified then you move on to other possibilities for the trouble.

Both of those codes could be a result of a lack of power getting to them, possibly coming from the ECU. If you haven't verified power is getting to the ignition system yet I suggest you don't do anything else until that has been done.

I suspect that the injector circuit was being disabled.

The trouble you are having might be due to a loose fusible link connection. This may be the item you are refering to that was moved. The links are normally located in a plastic box that is mounted on the coolant overflow reservoir (the same box Gloyale was refering to). Sometimes the link connections get loose and cause the kind of trouble you are having. The wire connections underneath the box can be a problem at times also. The starter problem could the due to bad solenoid contacts. They can be replaced for around 12 dollars for the set if they are needed.

Make sure the fan belt isn't slipping. Like Ivans Imports basically already stated, this kind of trouble can only come from the alternator.

Check for any error codes and make sure the ignition system has power getting to it.

The large ground wire mainly supplies current needed by the starter motor. The ECU should be okay. Here is a link for the timing belts. As for the compression I was thinking it was too low, regardless of the new rings. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/dohctbelt.pdf

Spray some starter fluid into the intake air filter and then see if the engine fires. If you don't have any results from that then most likely one of the timing belts has broken. Since you saw spark on one side at least this means the crank sensor is okay so don't waste your time with it.

My info shows the damaged relay is for the taillight circuit. The one to the left of it is for the rear defroster and the one below it is for the horn. Try swapping the horn relay wit the damaged one and see if that helps. There are three other relays also but aren't shown at the top of the picture. From left to right they are the Main Fan Relay-1, right side headlight, and left side headlight. The combination meter is also known as the cluster or the dash gauges console. It is the entire assembly for the gauges. I assume you not only checked the fuses but made sure power was getting to both sides of them. You can use the slits on top of the fuses to check each side of the fuse using a test light probe.

Well if the valve timing is correct then you have ignition timing an fuel left along with intake air. If the engine won't fire up using starter fluid something is wrong with the ignition or air intake possibly. Try removing the MAF sensor from the circuit and see if it will fire up then.

I suggest you check the other cylinders also and see what they are at. You may be off a couple of teeth as the compression is low.

The first area that should be checked for trouble is the dash fuses. Make sure there are no blown fuses. A lot of folks have missed a bad fuse thinking it was good on the first check. If the fuses are okay then power to the lights needs to be checked along with the dimmer control that is located on the return side of the light circuit. It makes changes on the ground side of the lights for the control.

Spray some starter fluid into the intake airfilter to see if that gets things fired up briefly. If that doesn't work make sure the plugs are getting spark. If that is okay then check for a broken timing belt. The sensor code seems to indicate that the sensor is either bad or the connection in the wiring to it has a connection problem. Before replacing it check the wiring to it for a problem. If you are going to work on this car yourself I strongly suggest you find a factory service manual for the car on Ebay and purchase it. If you don't already have a digital multimeter pick one up also. It doesn't need to be an expensive one.

The window circuit uses a circuit breaker to supply power to the power windows. Do you have power out of it? Power then ties to a power relay that is controlled by a control module for the window circuit. Make sure that relay closes when demand for power is made.

Glad you got it resolved. You can get key fobs on Ebay for a reasonable price. Make sure it is the correct model for your model year if you do that.

Using a analog voltmeter should never cause any problem when measuring any kind of power source the meter is rated for. There could possibly be a problem using one when checking certain junctions of solid state devices using the ohmmeter function of the meter due to the meter current needed to run the meter. It is usually safer to use a digital meter when doing that kind of testing. Hopefully you are good to go now and the battery was just low on charge. I would hope the shop checked current drain on the battery with the car parked and things have gone into the sleep mode to make sure there wasn't an excessive current drain on the battery.

On the Imprezza model it is located to the right of the steering column under dash. Yours might be near the same area possibly. Once you find it, it should unplug easily to change it out.

You may have started with a weak battery when you purchased the car though the voltage shouldn't have gotten to 10 volts. A loose fan or serpentine belt could be causing the issue. Dirty battery connections or loose alternator output connection are other possibilities. The current draw on the battery while parked shouldn't be more than 60 milliamps. You might want to purchase a voltmeter that you can plug into the cigarette lighter socket to monitor the battery voltage. Here is a link to one: http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor

The intake manifold gaskets are a pretty common failure point.