Cougar

No voltage to the injector you say. Lets go hunting then, armed with your trusty voltmeter. (We won't need the Colt .45 yet) First, check to make sure that the green fusible link is ok. This is located in the box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Make sure there isn't a loose connection there and that voltage is getting to both sides of the link with reference to ground. If that is ok then we need to check that voltage is getting to the ECM. Power is supplied to the ECM via the ignition relay and go to pins 29, 41, and 49. Make sure there is voltage getting to those pins with the ignition switch 'ON'. If those pins measure ok then the ECM may be the trouble. The injector leads go to pins 43 & 48 of the ECM by the way. You should be able see the resistance of the injector across those pins. Be sure power is off and remove the connector from the ECM before you measure it just to be safe, if you do that. This will verify there isn't a break in the wiring to the injector.

If you haven't checked for voltage to the disty yet then your wasting your time. Hopefully you are using either a test probe or meter to check the fuses with and not just looking at them.

The problem may be due to a intake manifold leak after the MAF sensor. I would check that out first. It sounds to me that the O2 sensor is detecting more air, going out, than is being measured, coming in, by the MAF sensor.

I think the two circuits do tie together through the turn switch and flasher. The two circuits share the same bulb filament. When the brake is pressed there is a continous voltage sent to the rear lights, as you know. When the turn signal is on at the same time, there needs to be a way to remove the brake light signal to turn the light off and indicate the turn. This is done through the flasher and turn signal switch. Not too long ago a friend of mine had intermittent trouble with his van's left rear brake light not working. At first we thought it was something with the light but it was ok. The problem turned out to be in the turn indictor switch. If it was not centered in the off position correctly the left brake light wouldn't work. The switch was worn due to age and use.

The module does plug-in and is usually under the dash near the driver's feet. You may be able to locate it by listening to the clicking with the blinker on. To test it you will either have to replace it or check the voltage on the left side output of the module with the left blinker and brake on. If the output doesn't pulse then it would seem the flasher is not working correctly.

I don't know any other way of doing it. If you don't know anyone that you can borrow one from then you should be able to rent one for a few dollars. A good new one should cost a little more than a tank of gas. Another test you can try is the dollar bill trick. To see if any exhaust valves are leaking, hold a bill by one end and place the other end close to the exhaust pipe while the engine is idling. It should be pushed away from the pipe. If one or more of the valves is leaking, the bill will try to get sucked back into the pipe for that cycle as air is pulled into it by the leaky cylinder.

I would check the compression of the cylinders after the car is warmed up to see if there is any problem there.

I would guess there may be a clog in the fuel system. Have you checked the filter? What makes you think that only half the engine is working?

The reason the voltage is low is because the load the starter motor puts on the battery. If you check the voltage while not cranking it will measure higher. The fuel pump circuit has a relay in the circuit that passes power to the pump. It seems you are getting voltage to the pump though. The problem may be with the injector not opening and so pressure is not dropping to allow the pump to turn on. Try placing a test light tied to circuit by placing the clip lead to ground and the probe end to each side of the injector wires. One side should be always be lit and the other side should pulse on and off with the injector while cranking the engine. If the light is always on then the injector is not getting the pulses to open it.

Have you checked the compression of all the cylinders? One of the timing belts may have broken.

Have you checked for a intake manifold leak as a cause of this problem?

I would recommend you check the flasher unit. Something may have damaged it. If that is ok then check the grounding to the light for a problem.

Techron is a fuel additive that Chevron makes to help clean fuel systems.

Did you check for voltage getting to both sides of the coil?

You're welcome for the help. Glad you are up and running. Thanks for the feedback.

Also check to see that voltage is getting to both sides of the coil with the ignition on. If that is ok the problem is in the disty.

The coolant temp sensor for the ECM may be bad.

Good deal. You will be able to use that knowledge in many areas. You will be glad you spent the time studying this.

I don't think the alternator is causing this problem, but I could be wrong I suppose. Have you verified that there is no spark to the plugs when this problem occurs? If that is so then I would start checking ignition voltages. The ignition relay may be intermittent.

From your post it appears that spark is ok at each cylinder. To see if the fuel delivery is a problem spray some starting fliud into the intake and if the engine runs then you need to see what is going on with the injector if this is SPFI. If that doesn't make the engine fire up then check the compression. The passenger side belt may have broke.

From your post it appears that spark is ok. If that is correct then I would try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and see if that makes the engine start up. If so, there is a fuel delivery problem. Is this engine SPFI or carburated? If it is fuel injected then see if the injector is ok and it is getting the proper signal to open it. If the starting fluid doesn't help then I would check the compression of cylinders. The passenger side timing belt may have broke.

Well it looks like my info doesn't match what you have for some reason. You still should be able to figure it out though. Using a meter I would first find the constant power lead for the memory. Then turn on the accessories and find the power lead for the radio and the ground (black probably). Then find the speaker leads by ohmming out the wires. Take one lead and then run through the rest of the wires until you see around a 8 ohm reading. That will be one pair. Then take another lead and do the same thing until you find all the leads. Edit: Remember, two of the wires should be common to the front and rear speakers on each side. One to the right side and one to the left side.

Instead of guessing at what is bad I would do some trouble shooting with a voltmeter to see where voltage is getting to or not. If you have voltage to both sides of the coil with the ignition ON, it is probably ok. You then need to see if firing pulses are on the negative side of the coil. By placing a test light on the minus side of the coil and ground the light should pulse with the firing pulses when you crank the engine. If you just have a steady light, which I suspect will be the case, then the disty circuit needs to be checked along with the ignitor.

I think the dimmer you are talking about is for the dash lights, correct? It should be mounted on the dash, left of the steering column. What makes you think the dimmeris bad? Are the dash lights out? I would suspect a fuse is blown if that is the case. I doubt the dimmer is bad.

Ok. What are the colors you have. Maybe I can match those with another print. Also, I assume you looking at the radio plug end, is that correct? If you are trying to install another radio unit they do have wire harness adapters available so you don't have to cut the stock plug off.