Cougar

The other connectors may be white or black under the hood on the firewall. The fuel pump should cycle on and off once for about two seconds when you turn the ignition on. This is normal.

Looking at my info it shows the high beam relay under the right side of the dash. A red wire supplys power to the high beams. I would tap the wire to run the relay coil. Run the other side of the coil to ground. The info also shows that fuse #4 is a 15 amp fuse that is not used. If that is so you could use it for the power to run the lights. You would have to run the wire to the lights from there. Check the main power panel under the hood for a spare relay slot you could use for this. I'm not sure if one is available or not.

I really missed it also. Maybe this means I need to get a life.

This is pretty strange. I don't see how 4 quarts of oil just disappears. The engine can't hold anything near that amount inside it. There is a section I think that oil can get mixed with the transmission fluid if there is a problem. Have you checked the tranny fluid to see if it is ok? I assume you are checking the level while the vehicle is off, on a level surface, and the dip stick is all the way down in the tube before it is pulled out to check.

I don't know if the coolant is scheduled to be replaced at 75k miles or not. I would like to know if the service department did anything with the coolant on the initial service job. If they did, then I think they are covering up something they did wrong. At least they should have checked the coolant to see that it was low and top it off. Why wasn't it at least checked? To have a radiator that low on coolant usually means two things. There is either a leak in the sytem or the gaskets are blown. I would not trust this shop after seeing this. Definately check the coolant again for bubbles. They may have put in some stop leak in the system to cover the problem up for a while. I could be wrong about them but this just sounds like trouble to me.

It sounds like something is locking up the wheels.

Have the battery checked out and make sure it is ok. Also check the check the amount of voltage drop between the alternator output and the positive post of the battery with a good load on the system. Also check the grounding between the negative post and the engine the same way. You shouldn't see more than around a 0.2 volt drop on either line. If there is a bad reading on the positive side check the fusible links first for a bad connection. The black fusible link is in the charging circuit. I'm not sure how economical it is to have the alternator repaired. You should be able to get a rebuilt Bosch unit for around $150 dollars that will have a lifetime warranty.

I was refering to the TPS. Thanks for the clarification.

Your welcome for the help. Seeing those before pictures makes the after ones look even more impressive.

I can't believe Subaru is telling you that is for the radio. That transistor is called the ignitor. The other leads go to the ECM I believe. It signals the ignitor when to turn on and off. I suspect the ignitor is your problem since the other voltages appear to be good.

If the ECM doesn't see the proper CAS signal then doesn't know when to setup the firing pulses. So it doesn't make any and you have no spark.

Any new info on this Shawn. We need to get this runnin'. Hopefully with the latest information you will find the problem.

Some of the gauges, like the fuel and temperature, have a regulator circuit to provide power to them. This provides a stable souce to them. The problem you are having may be due to a problem with the regulator circuit.

If the price of a rebuilt alternator sets you back, wait till you see the prices on the audio power caps.

I assume you have fixed the alternator problem before proceeding to anything else. I would check all the fuses, particularly #5, to see if any are blown there. If they are good then you need to see if voltage is getting to the plus side of the coil. You should see 12 volts there with the ignition switch to ON. If that is ok then you should also see 12 volts on the minus side of the coil. The ignitior needs to be checked also. The bigger battery shouldn't be a problem but if it was low on charge when you installed it you may have stressed the alternator too much trying to charge it up. The battery should be fully charged using a charger before putting it in service.

For a car that age it looks to be in showroom condition. No wonder your excited. Good job. It appears there is a stowaway in picture 4 and is looking to hit the road for some action. Don't bore your girlfriend with Subaru facts, the car speaks for itself. Share your joy with us here. Drive on.

I agree with the others. I would purchase a new OEM cap and see if that takes care of the problem. If not then I would try finding a different shop that works on Soobs.

The problem very well may be with the wiring to the CAS and not the sensor itself. I'm not sure what was going on when the tech was measuring resistance while starting the car. You can't have power running in the circuit while measuring the resistance of it. The circuit current will give a false reading. A more meaningful measurement would be a voltage reading and perhaps that was what was really taken. Using an oscilliscope to look at the signal would have been best but they may not have one. The problem does sound like a bad connection to me and I would check the connector at the sensor for a problem first. The ECM will know when the commuication to the sensor is bad and give a error code. You can purchase service manuals or download information from Subaru. Here is a couple links to check out. You can also order them through the parts department but that is the most expensive route. If you contact Jamie at http://www.allsubaru.com/home.html she should be able to sell you the manuals at a discount. http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/register.jsp http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp You can also get manuals from Ebay at good prices. There are CD manuals available also. There are multiple service manual sections needed to cover the whole car. Usually section 8 covers the electrical areas and section 2 covers the engine. To me having the factory manuals is a must for the cars I own but many people do not see the value in having a service manual. For those who do not work on their vehicle I can understand it.

If the ECU doesn't see the proper pluses from the disty it will turn the pump off. Usually the pump is grounded through the ECU.

The readings you are getting is due to the series voltage drop across the meter. I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish by doing this. The position that you read 12 volts at means something is trying to draw some current but can't due to the meter resistance. Since the voltmeter resistance is much higher than the circuit resistance all the voltage is dropped across the meter. If you are working on something that is staying on with the car turned off and killing the battery then you should refer to my posting I sent you in your other thread. If you are trying to measure the current that each leg is drawing then I can see a reason to do what you are trying to do but the meter needs to be in the current function then. That makes the meter a low resistance to the circuit as compared to a high resistance in the voltage mode.

The alternator may have a bad diode inside it and is backfeeding to the other circuits. Try removing the main output lead from the alternator and see if the problem goes away. Be careful not to touch anything with it as you probably know it is hot to the battery. The safe thing to do is to remove the ground lead from the battery before disconnecting it. Another thing you can do is remove the black fusible link to isolate the battery from the alternator output lead. If the problem clears when the alternator output lead is disconnected from the alternator and the battery is reconnected then you will need to replace the alternator. It should have a warranty. I have seen this kind of problem a few times.

My info shows the red fuse link ties to the blk/wht wire. The wire ties to the alternator, the headlight relays, and to fuse #5. After fuse #5 the wire turns to Wht and goes to other accessories. These are the horn, clock, SPFI control unit, key warning switch, trunk rm light, digital instument cluster, and directional/hazard switch. I assume you are having trouble with something on that fusible link circuit. Is the link blowing out? If so, I would check the alternator first.

I have a diagram I think will work. What do you need to know?

The pump you put on should be fine but who knows how long it will last. I think some folks have used pumps that were meant for Fords that they worked ok and cost less. If you do somthing like that I think the main thing is getting one with the proper pressure. I don't think the flow rate should be too much of a problem.

Your voltage readings between A and C are what you want to see. That is the wiper voltage. The throttle signal is supposed to be between .5 to 5 volts. The lower the voltage, the more the throttle is open.