Cougar

I think the clock just pops out. As far as running 4ga. wire and possibly RG-8 coax, what is the point? Unless you have some sort of high power RF output? I doubt you will be able to fit a standard size radio in that spot.

Here is what my info says the wire colors should be at the radio. Some of the speaker wires change colors at the speaker ends. Grn=hot at all times, Blu/Yel=power, Blk=ground, Wht/Blk=antenna. Wht & Blu/Blk= Right Front. Yel & Blu/Red= Left Front Yel/Wht & Blu/Red= Left Rear Wht/Blu & Blu/Blk= Right Rear Note: The front and rear speakers each share a common lead with their respective sides.

Before you say the ECM is bad have you checked for power getting to it? On pin 18, a lite grn/yel wire should have power on it with the ignition on, and pin 49, a r/blu wire should have power also. The units can go bad but I think most of the time it is other problems.

Very nice Mick. Another one for the collection, at least for a bit.

I am afraid you are stuck with the higher priced pump. It may run you about $225 dollars. The MPFI turbo system requires a higher fuel pressure that runs around 60 psi from the pump.

I assume this is a carburated model you have, is that right? Let's see what is working. Do you have spark getting to the plugs or is there still a problem with the disty? Is the ECU flashing any codes?

Wow, that was some hard reading. You stated that you removed the battery ground lead. You then measured voltages and stated you had a bad ground. I don't know what you were trying to prove by doing this. By doing that, there is no ground. The car systems will be floating and you will get all kinds of strange readings. You need to have the negative side of the battery tied to the vehicle ground system to make valid voltage measuements. The ignition coil is in between the supply power and the yellow wire to the disty. Is the yellow wire tied to minus side of the coil as it should be? My info shows the disty is also tied to a knock control unit. If that is correct then maybe there is a problem with that. As far as measuring continuity it is checking for resistance between the meter probes. If the reading is zero ohms when taking a reading then you have a short between the probes however things are tied together.

Before you spend a small fortune on giant caps I would have the charging system checked out by a good shop. You stated that the system is overcharging now. How do you know that? Did you measure the voltage and see more than 14.8 volts at the battery? Having a good high capacity battery is important to have here also. Check the wiring between the alternator and the battery for any problems. There should be very little voltage drop between the alternator output and the positive battery post with a good load on the system.

As was stated by Naru the problem is most likely due to the fusible link. Provided the links are in the proper positions you need to check the green link. It ties to a wht/blk wire that supplies power to the injectors along with other things. The problem may just be a bad connection so check that.

The flucuating voltage is a good sign that the injectors are working. The return line is plused on and off to ground by the ECM to open the injectors.

Do you have the correct oil in the engine for the outside temperatures and do you have a plug in heater for it?

Shawn, The resistance of the injector coil is low (2 to 12 ohms) so when you check the voltage on either side of the coil, with the meter reference lead to ground, you will see the same voltage, if no current is flowing through the injector coil. Voltage is tied to the coil at all times when the ignition is ON but current only flows through the circuit when the return side is grounded (through the ECM) and the injector then opens. The ECM decides when to make the ground connection and open the injector. Looking at my info again it shows the the injector grounds are tied to pins 27, 31, 32.& 33 of the ECM connector. Check those points with a ohmmeter and with the ignition OFF to make sure they are grounded. Also check that pin 5 is grounded.

Yep. Change out the PCV valve.

Since you stated that you can turn the car off and restart it and then it seems to run fine I would guess this is more an electrical problem than mechanical. Have you tried swapping coils to see if that makes a difference? To see if there is a manifold leak try sprayring some WD-40 around the suspected areas while the engine is idling and see if it changes speed.

Yes, a second or two. Some of the warning lights are in the alternator's exciter circuit so when the alternator is not working correctly these lights turn on.

I agree with NorthWet. Change out the PCV valve. Check the air filter also for oil in it.

I would say then that that means power is getting to the ECM but it would be good to check it out. Before you do, check for voltage getting to the injectors because that is what we really need to know. If you have 12 volts on both sides of the injector coils then that would mean that the grounding is getting to them from the ECM and it may need to be replaced. The injector return leads appear to be going to pins 21, 22, 25, &30. The respective colors are wht, wht/blk, wht/red, wht/blu. Check to make sure pin 26 (fuel injection control) has voltage on it also. The green fusible link supplies power to these points.

Shawn, My info shows that power is supplied to the ECM on pin 24, through the ignition relay. Make sure that power is getting to that pin with the ignition on. The ignition relay may be the problem here.

If there is spark to the plugs then I would check compression next. One of the timing belts may have broken.

I'm sure the wires were ok when you bought them. It sounds like you are not making good connection to the plugs and that is causing the arcing. Make sure the ends are seated on the plugs well and check the coil ground connection also. Bosch plugs aren't the best for these cars it seems. I would order some NGK's from a place online if you can't find them locally.

Shawn, Usually the injectors have voltage applied to them on one side of the coil. When it is the proper time to open, a ground connection is applied to the other side of the coil through the ECM. There may be some terminating resistors going to ground also that the current passes through. Check to see if you have voltage at least getting to the injectors. If you do, then the problem may be due to the ECM. It is critical that the ECM sees the ignition is firing in order to open the injectors. I will do some more research for you later when I get time.

If you have a ohmmeter available you can check the resistance of the injector coil and compare it to another good one. I think the resistance should be between 2 and 12 ohms. Clean the connections also, as that may be the problem.

The rotor may have been the wrong one for the disty.

The fact that you have spark to the plugs means the ignition is ok. As stated earlier the slightly low voltage you read may have been due to your meter but since you have spark it is not of much concern. I would guess that the injectors are not working for some reason. Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if that will make things fire up? If that makes the engine fire then you will need to see what is going on with the injectors. You stated you have 12 volts to them and I think the ground for the injector circuit is controlled through the ECM. Some designs use external termination resistors and I'm not sure if your model uses those or not.

This is kind of a strange one. It would be good to know what the voltage is at the motor and the current. I would have thought that the motor was bad but you changed that also. You might also check to see if there is any AC voltage on the coil leads if you have a voltmeter. I think the ground lead is through the switch. Usually power is sent to the motor and then the ground is connected through the resistors and the switch. This problem will have nothing to do with the CEL. The system is only concerned with engine problems that cause poor performance.