Cougar

Usually they number the wires but if you don't have any then justmatch the lengths as best as you can. The wires are the same except the length.

Very interesting. I would check with a dealer parts department.

I would guess around 208 deg. F.

Wow! What an adventure story. Glad you got the problem solved at least and you're welcome for the help. Thanks for the feeback. Skip, Now I see why are info was different. I don't usually beat you to the punch on these things.

I think there are two sensors in the engine. The one with two leads is for the ECU and the single lead unit is for the dash gauge. You should be able to get either one from a dealer parts shop or order one from a shop on the web. Check out allsubaru.com. http://www.allsubaru.com/

Before you spend the time to remove the motor I would suggest you test it first to see if that is really the problem and possibly save some needless effort. There may be a switch or connection problem causing this to happen. One side of the motor wires should have power to it and the other side will go to ground through the resistors and the switch. You should be able verify which lead is the power supply side using a meter or test probe. Once you are sure which lead it is, then tie the other wire to ground using a jumper wire. If the motor is ok and the power is still getting to the motor, it will run. You will know then if you really have to remove it or not.

You need to also check to see if the relay coil is getting voltage to it when the lights are supposed to be on. My info shows two other black wires going to the relay which should be tied to the coil side of the relay. One of the wires goes to ground so the other one will be from the switch. One of the black wires should have 12 volts on it when the light switch is on. If you don't have any voltage then the problem will be towards the switch. To prove the relay is ok you can use Skips idea of applying voltage to the relay coil and see if it turns the lights on. Just be sure you don't apply power to the wire going to ground. By pulling the relay and ohmming the wires to ground you will find out which is which unless you already have found it by seeing voltage on the wire when power is on. You may also be able to find another relay you can swap with to see if that will make it work. Edit: Another trick you may want to try is to turn on the lights while placing one hand on the relay. You may be able to feel the action inside it indicating it is getting coil voltage.

Plug #1 is on the front passenger side. The one you worked on is #2.

Skip, The info I am using is from a CD I purchased on Ebay. It is a Mitchell On-Demand CD and covers '83 thru '20. It was cheap and covers the basics fairly well but it doesn't replace a factory manual. I mainly got it to help with questions on the site here. Since all the lights are having a problem and the 3 fuses lose power I suspect that the lighting relay may be the problem, or the wiring to it. I'm not sure why your info shows something different. There is another section that covers the digital dash and I haven't looked at that one.

You're welcome. I would try lightly tapping the suspected areas with a screwdriver handle. It may tell you where the problem area is at real quick.

With all due respect I must disagree Zyewdall. Armed with a mere voltmeter a Jedi Knight can find the trouble with just about any electrical system on the 4 wheeled transporter. May the Fluke be with you.

The lighting relay is between the fusible link and fuses 9,10, and 11. You stated that the power to the fuses is not there when the problem happens so either the relay is intermittent or the wiring from the fusible link is faulty. The wire color from the fusible link to the relay is blk/wht and the color of the wire from the relay to the fuses is blk/red.

You're welcome. You might try ordering a couple spares from a source on the web if you can get the model number of the bulb. You may also be able to save some money along with possibly getting a better quality bulb.

The lighting relay is under the dash on the left side. It is fed power by one of the red fusible links. The link ties to a blk/wht wire. I think the problem is due to either a loose fusible link connection or a dirty relay contact.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of good friendly advice and help here.

It kind of amazes me to hear about these incidents. I have never seen this kind of thing happen. If you need some help with this perhaps there is a member nearby that can help you out. Sorry to hear about the work situation but something will come along.

You are correct about the moisture in the air. Spraying a light mist of water from a spray bottle over the ignition area can help show up these kind of problems. Since you are replacing the wires, I would recommend you replace the plugs also at the same time.

Welcome to the SOOB family. You are in for some fun with this car. Especially if you have snow in the winter. If you have the receipt for the headgasket work I would check to see if the timing belts were replaced then. They should have been done then if they were thinking ahead. Unless you are having poor mileage problems I would leave the plug wires alone as others have said also but you should replace the spark plugs if they haven't been changed out yet. Stick with NGK's and things will be fine there. If you do the plugs yourself then you may want to put a little antiseize compound on the threads to help out the next time they are pulled. Enjoy the ride and drive on. Edit To Ron917: I see we were thinking the same things at the same time.

Definatly try the starting fluid trick (one of my favorites). If the fluid makes it run then check to see if the fuel pump is working. You should be able to hear the pump run by turning the key to the RUN positon and listen for a brief low humming sound. If you don't hear it on the first try then crank the engine briefly and try it again. It sounds to me the inspection station screwed up your car but we will help you get it running again .

Your welcome.

If these are the bulbs you are having trouble with then I would try different supplier.

Look for a small box (4"x5"?) under the left side of the dash. It will have a lot of wires going to it. There is a LED on one end of it to read the codes from.

There is a lighting relay on the left side of the dash. If it is the problem and it is just dirty contacts causing the trouble, you may be able to get it to work by tapping on it with a screwdriver handle .

Doing a search for 'chevy alternator' I ran this link down. This may be what you wanted. http://random.fjeer.us/altswap.html

If the ECU doesn't pick up firing pulses from the disty as it rotates, it shuts down the pump for saftey reasons. Good call KStretch55.